2013 GM is waterborne?!
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Uh oh! Any tips on spraying solvent over water? Sealer over work first or what? I’m scared of feather edges showing through.
Same as any other car. It just basecoat. Once dried there is no water left.
You shouldn’t base over featheredges anyway. Doesnt matter what is on the car. Seal or prime.
As above, it shouldn’t make any difference to how you approach the job.
I’ve even applied solvent base after putting on a water based ground coat, and vice versa. As long as you’re generous with the drying times of each there’s no need to worry.
I believe most car companies have been spraying some sort of waterborne for awhile. GM even had some in the 80′.
Sorry yeah I meant seal before primer. We don’t really use much sealer here. Didn’t know if there was another step necessary between the normal steps.
So what do you do with new replacement parts (fender door hood etc) ??
They always come beat to hell, so after a little bodywork I usually spray them with the 4:1:1 primer. It sprays real nice and takes minimal sanding.
I was talking about new OEM replacement parts not repro parts for resto jobs.
Me too! They rarely come undamaged.
Very rarely do ours require any repair.Interesting that you guys sand and prime and sand new parts again.
If they are good, I think they usually just shoot right on the factory coating. I couldnt really tell you for sure. I just started here a few weeks ago, and they guy that was here quit. There is a new guy here now that does most of the collision work. At least while im banging out the GTO. The “new” guy (30+ years of experience) is supposedly one of the best around. I can tell you I have never seen someone that can prep a car as fast as this guy! He destroys me in that department…and hes damn near 60 years old. Hes the one that did the body work on the quarter panel of that truck. It was hammered in and huge. He had it banged out, filled, and sanded in no time. It freeks me out! They say he is one of the best painters around, but doing collision work its pretty hard for me to tell. But everyone that does restos hires him to come spray their high end jobs. Im hoping to pick up some tricks from him!
[quote=”gtome” post=29889]Sorry yeah I meant seal before primer. We don’t really use much sealer here. Didn’t know if there was another step necessary between the normal steps.[/quote]
Nope, no extra steps.
Like I say, I’ve sprayed them back to back fresh with no problem so doing it some time down the line after the car has been cleared, baked, left the factory, sat around at a dealership for some time etc etc won’t throw up anything out of the ordinary. I would prime and sand, but that’s just me, sealer should be fine if you’ve feathered back correctly.
Cool. No worries then.
I would worry about adhesion of solvent base on water base. Not saying a person couldn’t however… If you have based in water use the water cleaner and gold scotch brite and get busy. Seems messy not all that bad.
I am going to be doing another one tomorrow if the parts come in. Chevy truck in metallic black. Needs a bumper cover, headlight, and the fender contoured to the headlight. I think I will be using a very small amount of filler, and priming just the very front of the fender, spraying the blender down first, and getting after it. I need to get with PPG because our system doesnt recognize the code. I called the dealership, and they gave me a different code. It ended up being the same number but had a WA as a prefix.
I dont think they usually spray anything on new parts here, they scuff and shoot. I think I am going to start spraying a sealer first.
I hit the boss up this weekend about picking me up a fresh air breathing system too. Not going to be an easy task to get these guys into more modern practices since they hired this old school guy.
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