A big thank you to Iwata
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Oops, I didnt read close enough Andy.
So many questions to answer 😆
Ryan – I don’t mean the foam tape, although we use that too, but this stuff:
We use it for splitting panels up into bite sized chunks:
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Transition%20Tape/P1010013Medium.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Transition%20Tape/P1010020Medium.jpg[/IMG]
Might give the purests a heart attack, but needs must in the production shop 🙂
As far as panel painting goes, there are a lot of colours that I paint regularly, and know they match perfectly, but if anything new comes along I’ll blend to be on the safe side. It’s quicker in the long run than doing a spray out first, checking the colour, tinting as required etc. but I’ll do a spray card whilst painting the job so I have one ready if a car the same colour comes in again.
macioce – I’ve been doing the same hours as you this week, 6 – 5. Then most nights I’ve been going over to a buddies place after work to do some stuff for myself.
And cheers Nelson. They certainly ain’t slow guns in my experience 🙂
I was back behind the guns this week, after a week on prep, and managed to paint 98 this time. My boss is going to start expecting this regularly… :deadhorse
Ryan, you asked in my other thread about our usual prep methods, but I might as well put it in here.
As you’ve seen, we only do minor repairs so most filler jobs only need one application of Upol Easy One filler, followed by a finish skim of Evercoat Easy Sand. Some don’t even need that much and the Easy Sand on it’s own is enough. Repairs are blocked down through the grades to 320, with the scratch marks then being refined with a 400 disc on a DA. This is because we rarely use a 2K primer, but use rattle cans instead :blush:
It’s not as bad as you think, as we aren’t expecting any kind of build out of it, it’s basically just sealing in the filler and any bare metal. Clearly that means any filler work has to be perfect, as we haven’t got the safety net of a few good coats of thick high build to block down. Fill once, fill well 😉
The primer is then smoothed if needed with a 500 disc, and the rest of the panel (and any adjacent blend panels) are sanded with 1000 or 1200. Our old guy then scuffs the edges wet with a grey pad and scuff paste, but the rest of us use a 2000 grit foam backed pad (Mirka Abralon) and degreaser as it’s much quicker and cleaner.
The car will then be outline masked, then it’s a final wipe down with DeBeer 1-951 silicon remover before being parked in front of the booth ready for me to drive in, sheet up, and shoot.
There are obviously variations, but that covers the majority.
Cool Andy. I need you to come over here and give me a hand. I would make a killing. All the beer you want!
Do you’ll just use the 2000 grit abralon discs made for buffing with waterborne degreaser?
Yep, they’re the ones.
They do produce a square version though, especially for hand use, but we stick to the round ones to save double-stocking similar products (exactly the same thing, just cut to a different shape).
Those pads are also perfect for nibbing down any defects in water base. Either dry, or with a little solvent degreaser as a lubricant 🙂
And if I ever get tired of the UK, I’ll come knocking… 😉
I have to tell you Andy your method of scuffing with waterborne cleaner and Abralon works very good. I tried it this week and am hooked. I went ahead and ordered a box of the P1000 Abralon dics. I’m thinking the 1000 will go even quicker as they will have a bit more bite and is a good grit for blending over. Thanks!
[quote=”Andy T” post=18327]Yep, they’re the ones.
Those pads are also perfect for nibbing down any defects in water base. Either dry, or with a little solvent degreaser as a lubricant 🙂
[/quote]
Just a little note on anybody ever using Lesonal waterborne dont go near it with panel wipe/ degreaser the base will turn to mush, we aslo scuff dry with the same pads.
I have no probs using degreaser and scuff pads on other waterborne basecoats, just lesonal that does not like it.
Andy we sometimes go as low as 800 da discs to prep the surrounding panels, though you do have to watch the edges, but a fair bit quicker than 1000-1200
Mirka polarstar 1000 disc’s are the best i have ever used much better than 3M.
Glad you like it Ryan :dnc
As I mentioned there are variations on the above methods, and if I’ve got a colour that I know is going to be a tricky blend (by looking at the type of silver in it), then I’ll scuff the edges by hand with a 1000, then while it’s still damp I’ll run over the whole area with it on the DA to give me a consistent, fine scratch pattern. That way I find little need for a wet bed to blend over.
Nick – We use the 1500 Polarstar discs for buzzing down any excess peel after painting (not on my jobs of course 😆 ), but I’ll get some 1000 and give them a try, as we’re currently using their Q Silver 1200. Thanks for the idea.
Right now I sand mine and scuff them with a gray scuff pad with waterborne degreaser and it does work very well. You’ll might want to give that a shot sometime as it does work very well. I’m thinking the P1000 Abralon may work a little better though.
What kind of waterborne degreaser are you using, I’d like to try it out.
Sikkens Autoclean. They have 2, get the one that is lower voc.
Sweet! Thanx ryan…..You think using it with the abralon would work better. I have never tried this method and would like to order the right materials to do it.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=18436]Right now I sand mine and scuff them with a gray scuff pad with waterborne degreaser and it does work very well. You’ll might want to give that a shot sometime as it does work very well. I’m thinking the P1000 Abralon may work a little better though.[/quote]
Yes I’ve used a grey scuff pad in the past, but I think you’ll find the Abralon a bit easier as the sponge backing holds the degreaser better.
[quote=”Andy T” post=18431]Glad you like it Ryan :dnc
Nick – We use the 1500 Polarstar discs for buzzing down any excess peel after painting (not on my jobs of course 😆 ), but I’ll get some 1000 and give them a try, as we’re currently using their Q Silver 1200. Thanks for the idea.[/quote]
sorry maybe i was not very clear :blush:
I ment we use p1000 polarstar for prepping blend panels and surrounding paintwork on repair areas
[quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=18467]
sorry maybe i was not very clear :blush:
I ment we use p100 polarstar for prepping blend panels and surrounding paintwork on repair areas[/quote]
I think you were, but I wasn’t 😆We have some polarstar discs, but only in 1500 for de-nibbing. I’ll try some of the 1000 for prep instead of the 1200 Q Silver we’re currently using 🙂
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