Advice before I attempt a blend
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- This topic has 30 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 11 months ago by Ben Hart.
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- January 16, 2011 at 5:40 am #27240
I’ve got a friend with a ’96 honda accord. We welded in a patch panel where a little rust was starting to poke through, and while we were at it sanded down a bunch of rust spots from rock chips on the hood. I’m looking at a gnarly blend job on this goldish metallic, and I’m not looking forward to it.
Any advice? I don’t have my own mixing system, I’m stuck with the only paint I can get in this town. Martin Senour…..
I’m not sure she wants me to do a proper blend everwhere, because that will require clearing half the car, and she’s helping me sand :dnc
January 16, 2011 at 6:07 am #27243You need to get your color bang on to make it easier.
Blend the fenders and color the whole hood or live with a mismatch. Blending a gold metallic within a hood with solvent is tough for a very good painter. For a novice it will be blind luck if you pull it off. It wont take 20 minutes longer to sand and tape the fenders and blending will be cake. Just let the color blow over the top edge. If you have to sand half the car to do it right thats what it takes. or live with a mismatch. Do as Bondo stated and see where your colors at first then make your decision.
January 16, 2011 at 11:41 am #27256I have done a dark metallic silver, and it wasnt easy…. I knew this would be about one of the worst….
I’ll do a spray out if it will help, but the problem is I have to buy a pint of mixed paint to do the spray out and buy more if it’s wrong.
I think I might be better off hauling the swatch book down to the car and check the alternates. not being able to experiment with the color on my own really screws me over….
I could probably go up to the body shop and get PPG’s DBU base. I’ll probably be miles ahead right there. maybe then I could mix just enough to spray it out and correct if need be.
The owner flat out told me she’s not concerned about a butt match, but it will drive me nuts if it’s not right. I think I’ll just scuff down the stupid fenders and get it done right. My whole thing is I always want to fix every little tiny imperfection in the panel I’m working on, and I’ll certainly find some ding or rock chip or something which will lead to shooting the doors…… before I know it I’m back to the first car I ever did – that job was supposed to be a few days and shooting a few panels. took months of after hours time, and was a complete job with every screw up possible….. yikes.
January 16, 2011 at 5:50 pm #27258With collision you just have to fix what you get paid to fix and leave the rest be. If you start chasing every imperfection you will wind up painting the whole car. I try to take care of anything I can but I won’t screw up my blend room for it.
Take the gas door off of the car and take it with you to the paint store. If none of the variants look worth a shit don’t buy any. Getting a body shop to mix some may not be a bad idea. If you want them to tint it some it will cost you but may be your only option if the Martin Senour doesn’t match. You never know though you may find MS has a variant that hits really good.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=17202]With collision you just have to fix what you get paid to fix and leave the rest be. If you start chasing every imperfection you will wind up painting the whole car. I try to take care of anything I can but I won’t screw up my blend room for it.
Take the gas door off of the car and take it with you to the paint store. If none of the variants look worth a *** don’t buy any. Getting a body shop to mix some may not be a bad idea. If you want them to tint it some it will cost you but may be your only option if the Martin Senour doesn’t match. You never know though you may find MS has a variant that hits really good.[/quote]
I would head to the bodyshop then. The guys there probably know their paint a lot better than the guy selling the Martin Senour. The guys at the bodyshop will probably be able to help you pick the best variant, and obviously the PPG will be easier to use, IMHO. And maybe the bodyshop could also pour out a few ounces basecoat blender for you (DBU 500) tech sheet [url=https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=d2613b48-0f47-4571-b735-370598d3c803]HERE[/url]
As for caring about the little things, just work in a flat rate shop for a few months and you’ll stop giving a fawk pretty quick :rofl
January 22, 2011 at 5:40 pm #27526X2 on the blender for a gold metallic for solvent base. If your local body shop is willing to mix up the paint for ya i would do that. So if it needs any tinting they can take care of ya. Most paint stores that mix paint for the public have no idea how to tint. Also don’t be misled to thinking just because its dbu or dbc it will match better, the higher dollar lines cover better and often have twice the number of variants. So don’t think that just because it cost more that it will match better. Still have to do a spray out check the variant deck to the fuel door etc.
January 22, 2011 at 10:43 pm #27536thanks for the advice.
I got the problem areas all in primer a couple weeks back, and the rest of the job will be done next saturday. block out the primer and mask it up.
I have black primer on there, and only black sealer….. will it be a terrible thing to paint over that? will it just take more coats of base, or am I going to be in trouble on a light metallic color?
January 22, 2011 at 11:04 pm #27537be better if it was light gry but it can be done just remember if its blendid its splendid:lol1 :lol1 :lol1 :lol1 an double chk that thing with a bright light ta make sure ya got coverage;)
January 22, 2011 at 11:07 pm #27539[quote=”MoCoke” post=17463]the black sealer is gonna throw ur color off and cost you a lot of color. better to buy some light gray sealer or a buff color preferably then it is to buy and apply so much base.[/quote]
good advice moke:cheers :cheers :cheers sealer is cheaper than base - AuthorPosts
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