Advice on How to Tackle Repair
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Hi guys was Just wondering if you could help with correct workflow to be able to sort a repair like this as i have seen multiple solutions. Damage below on a 3 door mini.
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What i was thinking is: (this does not mean it is at all right)
– take a DA to it and feather it and finish with a block sander
– 2k high build primer > block sand when dry
– on door blendwater bourne out
– rear 1/4 panel blend colour in to the door and out to the rest of the 1.4 panel
– then clear the door and the rear 1/4 paneli am using waterbourne PPG
with lph80 sprayguns (think i could do with bigger for this job)Anyway guys i just wanted to see how pro’s do it so i know correctly work flow.
Thanks in advance,
HarryHarry – I can’t see much wrong with your general outline, but I think you’re right about the LPH80 being just a bit small for this job. It’ll manage, but bigger would be better.
By the time you’ve feathered out that scratched and primed up, you might be too close to the front edge of the door to blend the colour out, so I’d consider doing the front wing/fender panel. It’s only tiny so you might as well if there’s any doubt. A dark primer will help coverage on that colour.
I don’t know how much you plan to strip that down, but the mirrors come off very easily from the outside with a hex/allen key (just don’t drop the wiring plug inside the door!), the chrome trims come off pretty easily too, just watch for the little finishing piece at the front end of the rear quarter trim. It slides out forwards before removing the rest of the trim. If you remove the plastic arch cover expect to break a few clips. As for the door handle – I usually mask them up as they are such a pain to remove :blush: but if you have the time it’s worth the extra effort.
I agree with Andy on all things. Those handles are a real PITA. Taking them out isn’t bad, it’s putting them back in. It would be a nicer job with them out though.
I would want a full size gun for that job.
I would definitely use a black primer if possible or use a black groundcoat under that color. That isn’t the best covering color over a medium gray primer. It covers very quick over black.
Cheers for your reply’s guys :cheers
I was looking to just take off the wing mirror and leave everything else on that should still yield great results?
I agree with both of you on the primer my 2k high build primer is very light so i will put the recommended undercoat on over my primed areas.
The problem is currently i only have 50 litre compressor which means i cannot use a full sized gun until that is upgraded.
have you guys got any experience with the LPH80 recently for some reason i have been having a little trouble getting the result i want just end up with a little too much orange peel 🙁
This is ok doing my usual SMART repair work as to cut and polish back to a glass finish 😉 does not take long. Though spraying a side of a car i am going to want to lay that clear pretty damn smooth. Or is this going to be pretty impossible using such a small gun on such a large job?
The main problem I see using a LPH80 might be getting enough build to be able to flat and polish it. You can make it work but i would allow for an extra coat or two. To be honest I have never tried to spray a job that size with a mini gun.
If you are using PPg waterbase i wouldnt worry about tinting the primer because you will have to use the correct shade of sealer before you shoot your base coat anyways. Feather those scratches to the metal so you will not get any “Ghosting” down the road. Shoot a coat of etch for corrosion resistance than apply 3 coats of a good quality 2K and let set overnight, block the next day and proceed. Like the others said i would fully de-trim and take in the whole side of the car.
They make the 2k primer in white, grey and dark grey in the ppg as from what i read he’s not planning on sealing it. :teach i also think u are not going to enjoy spraying the whole side with a mini gun..
i have not got a ppg sealer or from my knowledge an etch primer. I cannot tell from my 2K primer quite what it entails as it rebranded with no product information. Is it possible that a 2k highbuild primer has etching capabilities? Also as painter123 said i was not intending to seal is not recommended. This post was really to see the best workflow so would you guys say that has to be done? as i say i normally do SMART/spot repair where a sealer is not applied. What you think Guys?
Also painter123 i also think i am not going to enjoy that i really need a new spray gun and compressor.
No u do not need to use sealer and i was assuming u were using ppg 2k primers and u can get them in other shades of grey. like others said if u can use a darker primer u will have better luck with the hiding of the color.so just treat the job how you do the smart repairs but clearcoat the entire panels.
I was intending on using the 2k primer i have then use the recommended undercoat as the 2k i have is very light. exactly what i was planning on doing clearing the door and the 1/4 panel but as some of the guys have said i think i should key up the front wing just for possible blending. Although i think i may have to leave it till i have a sensible gun using 1mm minigun is going to take an age to get this sprayed with clear. Also using a .8mm base gun is going to grind my gears. I think the bottom line is this should really be done in a bodyshop and with large equipment?
the handles come out pretty easy, once you figure out how those pesky door panels come off :blush:
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