Aftermarket Bumper Covers
Home / Forums / Main Forum / Introductions / Aftermarket Bumper Covers
- This topic has 24 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 14 years, 2 months ago by jackcarlson.
- AuthorPosts
- October 22, 2010 at 7:22 am #24502
Just wondering if any of you guys are doing a wipe down test of primed aftermarket covers. Almost all of our Keystone covers that come in I have to wipe all the primer off with thinner and start fresh. I have tryed to just scuff and shoot them but I have had multiple times that after it was painted all the primer peeled off in sheets. Not only that but they are always scratched and full of gouges and are ruffer than a cob. Anyone else with me?
AnonymousOctober 22, 2010 at 7:29 am #24505Ya it sucks till ya switch to waterborne. We were doing that for a while when we were on solvent. Once you switch you only have to do a tape test which the keystones will pass, scuff and paint!
AnonymousOctober 22, 2010 at 7:31 am #24506Alternatively you could try tossing on a sealer, say a prayer and giver!
October 22, 2010 at 7:40 am #24508[quote=”jimmo” post=14739]Alternatively you could try tossing on a sealer, say a prayer and giver![/quote]
just dont forget ta sand the $hit outta the primer they have on it first:weights :weightsOctober 22, 2010 at 7:45 am #24511Some of those bumpers look like they were primed with a wagner house painter:rofl
October 22, 2010 at 7:48 am #24513i hate the keystone covers. they always come damaged. i hate their remans even worse. but never had a problem with the primer poping off. i use a red carbo scotch pad, scuff real good and go at it. now that we’re on water, i put sealer on first.
i have notice that the primers seem to be different for their am covers, and their remans are real thick. i use 400 on a da then scuff, on the remans.AnonymousOctober 22, 2010 at 7:52 am #24514My BASF rep told me keystone started using there waterborne primers a little while back on bumpers. We don’t get many remans from them but the few we have I know were pretty rough.
October 22, 2010 at 8:03 am #24515i found out years ago. that we went through on the am primer, and when we washed it, all the primer started to come off. so we don’t wash them any more. straight prep sol, then paint.
i agree the remans are rough, it takes quite a few sheets of 400 to cut.October 22, 2010 at 8:19 am #24518We got a reman once that still had mud on the back side of it and it was primed over!
got a reman sebring bumper back with pealing paint for second time …. first time sanded painted and cleared (no sealer) paint came right off they’re primer with tape and a blower :huh: second time sanded epoxy sealed, painted and cleared, paints sticking, they’re primer is coming off this time :deadhorse :cens :cens :deadhorse :deadhorse
October 23, 2010 at 4:03 am #24547Hell almost every OEM is price matching these days, why are you guys still fuking with the Tong Yangs???:P
I always give them a reducer bath and treat as raw. We won’t use recons either. We will use an A/M but I have yet to see a recon that was worth two sh!ts.
October 23, 2010 at 5:31 am #24553All of our vendors work with us on pricing. They will try and come as close to A/M cost as possible so we still make a markup. Sometimes we don’t get as much of a margin but it works out in the end when the tech doesn’t spend twice the time fuking with it.
I know all 3 domestics do it and also Honda and Toyota. I think Nissan might also. Lexus, Acura, Infiniti and the Europeans don’t. Usually A/M on Euros fits so bad you have to go OEM.
October 23, 2010 at 5:39 am #24554i will have to mention this to the office help. we have to put on what ever the insurance comp. tells us to put on. i have noticed lately that state farm is useing a lot of keystone remans.
- AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.