aftermarket bumpers
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Anyone have any tips on dealing with these junk bumpers? I know the correct way is to strip the primer off them and start over but can’t get paid for that. The way I do them now is to scuff them with a scuff pad and paste, clean them with waterbased cleaner then two really light coats of sealer with extended flash times then start basing. First coat goes on real light with extended flash times and it drags on and on. What happens is that if you rush it at all or get a little heavy on the base, then the factory primer will lift and at that point your pretty much screwed gotta strip the bumper. I am spraying sikkens abp.
Thanks
ChuckI usually wash them first with hot soapy water to get any the extra mold release off of them. Then usually scuff them P600 wet or the usual scuff n’ paste. After that water base cleaner followed by a anti-static cleaner. Sometimes the alcohol from the anti-static cleaner can strip any left over shipping primer that the bumper has on it. Sealer can be a two component or single. Then base until its fully covered followed by a mist coat, and then clear.
I use a used red scotch brit than RM 909 cleaner and use RM 870 plastic adhesion sealer and paint with no issues
I also agree on taking off the primer for aftermarket bumpers,oem I leave on.So since its a pain to take off the primer I give it a light scuff with the 3m thin scothbite pads (red or gray depending on the bumper) then a light coat of sikkens cbp 250 sealer mixed with extra slow activator as it is less likely to wrinkle,base then clear.Bare plastic gets prepped the same,sikkens po,sealer base clear.I hate to do it but alot of times on the directions of AM bumpers they suggest to base right on top of the primer if you prep it like they want it.It seems no matter what you do you always get the odd peeler.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=36686]I also agree on taking off the primer for aftermarket bumpers,oem I leave on.So since its a pain to take off the primer I give it a light scuff with the 3m thin scothbite pads (red or gray depending on the bumper) then a light coat of sikkens cbp 250 sealer mixed with extra slow activator as it is less likely to wrinkle,base then clear.Bare plastic gets prepped the same,sikkens po,sealer base clear.I hate to do it but alot of times on the directions of AM bumpers they suggest to base right on top of the primer if you prep it like they want it.It seems no matter what you do you always get the odd peeler.[/quote]I will try that with the extra slow activator and see where that gets me. Any thoughts on using bulldog as a barrier coat before sealing? I talked to a rep from keystone about our issues and asked him what the chances of getting raw plastic bumpers in and he told me that they have no control over how they are shipped to them. They at least agreed to pay us to repaint them when their primer busts loose and the customer brings it back in. But that still makes us look bad to the customer.
Chuck
Trust me try RM 870 I use it on primed and raw plastic bumpers this stuff is like bullet proof
Why would you need adhesion promoter on a primed surface? Raw plastic I get it, just asking
I like to put RM product on to rm product and it’s something I was taught and I always stuck with it and never had problems with bumpers peeling again
Good to know it works that way with Rm.I have seen other systems where adpro can cause the aftermarket primer to lift,thats why I asked.
No it’s all good
Here jayson
I could be wrong, but I can’t see RM recommending to put adhesion promoter on to primer. Usually adhesion promoter is for raw plastic only. But I have never really used RM so I probabaly shouldn’t say. Glad it works for you!
Actually Jim the rep does recommend 870 on all plastic parts primed or raw plastic
Ok lets clear some things up here as far as RM 870 is concerned. It is not a straight 1k like the 868 ad pro. It is a 2k sealer pre flexed with ad pro built into it. It was designed for raw plastics and is acceptable to use over primers and e-coats as well , however BASF does not recommend using 868 ad pro over top of primed aftermarket bumpers as their primers are generally soluble and will soak and soften the primer.
Ok thanks for the info and we have the same recommendation about our sealer.The best way is to strip it but sikkens did come out with a waterborne sealer for aftermarket covers that works pretty good.Aftermarket covers are a pain in the ass……
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