Am I asking too much?
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Hey guys,
So I have gotten a hold on the deep craters that go down to the basecoat, and it seems the only issue I have now are tiny/shallow craters. Keep in mind these will wetsand right out with a few passes of 1000, but really, I want to eliminate them all together so i just have to de-nib and be done. Most of you guys have seen my setup and know my routine. Bondo is probably sick of hearing about this by now, but I have made such progress that I can’t stop now lol.
Wash all my parts with Palmolive original soap, then solvent based W&G and then Water Based W&G. Then I have 30 feet of black iron pipe with a qc3 devilbiss air dryer with the desiccant snake coming off that, then one more ball filter right before the gun. I am concern that my filter is too small.
Am I asking to much to get a finish without shallow craters?
Pics are after a quick pass with 1k.
Thanks.
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_9014.jpg[/IMG]
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[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/nexson1/IMG_9010.jpg[/IMG]Are you talking about the crater or the tiny white specs?
Ryan, I stupidly dusted on silver metallic on another grille while i had the first coat of clear already on this black grille. that is just silver metallic that floated over. Before I redo the black grille, i wanted to snap some pics of my problem.
Ahhh, I was gonna say you either have some metallics from a dirty gun or solvent pop.
It’s hard to say Nex. I think you have tried about everything to get rid of them. I would just dab some clear in the crater while it’s wet, then knock it down and buff. There are still times when I will get one or two in a paintjob at work. You can’t always eliminate all problems, you just have to find solutions. that’s what being a good painter is about, being able to fix things when they go array.
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Ahhh, I was gonna say you either have some metallics from a dirty gun or solvent pop.It’s hard to say Nex. I think you have tried about everything to get rid of them. I would just dab some clear in the crater while it’s wet, then knock it down and buff. There are still times when I will get one or two in a paintjob at work. You can’t always eliminate all problems, you just have to find solutions. that’s what being a good painter is about, being able to fix things when they go array.[/quote]
Your right Ryan, I have tried just about everything lol. Any chance it might be solvent pop? I am using a fast catalyst, so I am allowing 5-6min flash times as per tech sheet. Maybe I will try to wait a bit longer, and see what it does.
Doesnt look like solvent pop. I would try using a waterborne cleaner instead of the palm olive. The soap could or couldnt be the problem. If you still get fish eyes without the palm olive then you know its not the soap. I would just go with process of elimination.
If you scroll up to the first post, you can see I used the solvent based and water based cleaners.
Barry from SPI, said it is Solvent pop, which makes sense since i don’t see them in my first pass.I am going to wait much longer on my flash time and try that out.
rather than a fast catylist go to the medium instead and control with your reducer it maybe locking up too quick and trapping solvents MAYBE :S :S
How long are you waiting between coats of clear? Maybe you should w.o.w. the clear?
what do you use to wash cars there? any spray waxes? most contain silicones, and tiny bits left hanging in the shop air can be a nuisance.
The little specs of metallic looks like solvent pop. That’s probably what he is referring to. The craters are not solvent pop.
What kinda rags you using to wipe down with?
You won’t see solvent pop till it dries. Solvent pop doesn’t happen in random spots. It will show up in a heavy spot like a run or a heavy edge. It can also cover the entire panel. It won’t sand out either, you have to respray. If you are getting a little crater here and there and they sand and buff out it isn’t solvent pop.
I painted the side of a Solara today and it had a couple spots like that in a small area. All I will do is sand them down and buff and be done with it. They will be gone. This is just part of painting everybody has to deal with at times. There is not a painter out there that only has to de-nib a couple spots and buff on every job, every day. Even the best painters have an issue here or there. They just take care of them on that job and move onto the next. If the factory with computer programmed robots can’t paint a car blemish free, how are we supposed to??? 😉
Ryan, you have a good way of putting things into perspective. In reality all I have is the forum for guidance since I am doing this all on my own, so i appreciate the support. I am using prep towels from my jobber, and two seprate ones when using the solvent and water based wax and grease removers. I am really stuck, not sure what it is, i have used a couples hoses with the same problem. I am thinking about stepping away from SPI, just because I am so confused on their flash times. I was told to wait 20 minutes inbetween coats, or wait until I can run my finger across the clear without it sticking, however in their tech sheet, it says flash times for my activator are 5-8 minutes.
I am tempted to go back to DC3000 just for the reason of having a solid tech sheet with set in stone flsh times to follow.
Whenever you come down here Ryan, your going to have to stop by!
20 minutes flash with fast activator at 85 degrees??? I would think that would be way to long. I would be scared of it lifting.
A different clear may work better and may not. Would be worth trying though. It would be one more thing to eliminate. Hey not every product was made for every person. Got to find what works for YOU! Did you have a problem with craters using PPG?
I think Ryan hit the nail on the head. A painter has to adjust himself to his environment. At the shop I worked at before almost every car had one or two fisheyes.(Thats what your problem is ,Ryans right solvent pop are little bubbles in heavy build areas or it happens from using the wrong hardner or thinner for the temperature your working in.)You could try to isolate the problem. Waxes with silicone is the first thing I would get rid of because thats what we did and it works. Try to stop using the hand soap.I never used that in the shops I’ve worked in. You’ll never solve the fisheye issue on every car but you can get to were they don’t happen as much or as bad. Good Luck :cheer:
I’m with Lowder on using medium instead of fast. Also, generally about 10 to 15 Min’s is good between coats. Not 20.
Good luck. 🙂
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