Am I asking too much?
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its definitely not solvent pop. and for what you are doing the dc3000 is an excellent clear.
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]20 minutes flash with fast activator at 85 degrees??? I would think that would be way to long. I would be scared of it lifting.A different clear may work better and may not. Would be worth trying though. It would be one more thing to eliminate. Hey not every product was made for every person. Got to find what works for YOU! Did you have a problem with craters using PPG?[/quote]Well, I had only done that 20 minutes flash time (as recommened) once as a try (today) and it failed. First coat went on great, second coat went on beautiful, 20 minutes later it wrinkled up resulting in an orange peel look. Back when i first used the DC3000, I had bad contamination issues and didn’t have my Iwata either so I am eager again to try it out. Back in those days I would have fisheyes that would show up as i sprayed my first coat of clear, I would like to think I have moved on from those days, so I want to try that out since it has 3-5 flash times, which I like for my small stuff.
[b]Papipab wrote:[/b]
[quote]I think Ryan hit the nail on the head. A painter has to adjust himself to his environment. At the shop I worked at before almost every car had one or two fisheyes.(Thats what your problem is ,Ryans right solvent pop are little bubbles in heavy build areas or it happens from using the wrong hardner or thinner for the temperature your working in.)You could try to isolate the problem. Waxes with silicone is the first thing I would get rid of because thats what we did and it works. Try to stop using the hand soap.I never used that in the shops I’ve worked in. You’ll never solve the fisheye issue on every car but you can get to were they don’t happen as much or as bad. Good Luck :cheer:[/quote]You know, comet worked great, now they have added bleach and I cannot find an original. Any ideas? Just don’t use soap in general? back and forth on this one lol
wrinkled as in it lifted?? Not good if it did
Thats what I am thinking as well ding, nothing bigger then a bumper here.
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]wrinkled as in it lifted?? Not good if it did[/quote]It didn’t lift, but it was if i totally had the gun adjustment out of wack, I am not too worried about that though because that has never happened to me, and due to the longer flash time most likely.
I think I just need to get a fast clear instead of getting fast activators.
What are your temps/humidity level in your garage and “booth”? You don’t need a fast clear you need a slow clear (universal) and the slow activator so it stays open longer and has the ability to purge the solvents esp. since it appears you do a lot of black. JimC told me that you really need to bake or let dark colors flash longer then other colors because the pigments are so much heavier. Even using a hairdryer will work to get it flashed off. If it is above 80deg. in your garage get the slow act. and put some polar in it. The polar will not speed up the flash time but it will improve dry time. You can also add some (up to 10%?) slow reducer.
I think what you have is what Barry calls “pinching” or as George Castansa says “I had shrinkage!!”.
I keep doing edits on this :S Something else that came to mind is that you are using rattle can primer. That product is for ever flashing off as I understand, then you have the base that has a lot of solvents and then you have the clear with a lot of solvents. Have you thought about using an 2k or epoxy primer instead? The epoxy can sit for an hour before topcoating without sandng. 2k will be dry in 30 min to be sanded. You are a perfectionist and not really on a time crunch so why not use the best products? It’s cheaper to do it once with quality product than it is to save $$ on product and have to redo.
he’s just doing bumpers and grills. why does he need a slow clear.
Because it’s hotter than hell in FL and very humid. I bet if he tried normal or slow activator he will be much happier.
I am starting to phase out of the rattle can primer for exterior parts and leaving it just for interior panels that get textured finishes. On the last two lips i shot, i used used 2k high build primer, and was very impressed on how much build i got and how much i could sand without breaking through. Everything plays a role so as you said, I want to work with the best products and tools out there, so I am just going to continue that pursuit. It is all a learning process.
I’m with AAE, slow the clear down you will get better results.
he can use a slow activator for a panel clear. there is no need to use and overall clear for bumpers and grills. fc 710 has a fast, med and slow activator for diff temp ranges and spray conditions as do most all brands
i picked up the med act which is 70-90 degrees. for the fc710
Hey Nex, I have been using the FC710 with Med activator at home. I have been shooting it wet on wet and have had excelent results. If your comfortable with that method I would recomend it. 😉
I only shot it once and I shot it conservative on a small part, can you get on the clear without running it?
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