Am I asking too much?
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I just watched your videos. That is a great idea for a booth, You should patten that, who knows, you could be on to something big.
I didn’t reread this thread, but you said they are black iron lines? black iron always has oil in the lines out of the factory when they cut and thread the ends. I ran brake cleaner through the lines several times with a rag on a string and I still had problems. I had to bypass a couple of the legs and it was ok. in my new shop I’m currently running copper pipe.
I’d check that out, if you haven’t already.
I would think about getting a patent but technically the booth is not safe with box fans and in order for it to be portable, I don’t think explosion proof fans are too portable hehe.
Nelson,
I noticed that my black iron piping, well black ironing piping in general is very rusty inside, not sure if this has to do with the contimation but it could cause an issue. I didn’t get copper because I don’t know how to put it together. i am sure I could learn and it would be easier then black iron which is a royal PITA. Copper seams cleaner to me, what size you going to run?
Nexson, copper is a walk in the park. I run all air lines in copper. Cut, clean, flux and solder and your done. Make sure to use schedule K or L. M is a little thin.
If you can solder wires when installing a stereo you can solder copper
Ryan,
What size copper is good to run. i didn’t know it was that easy..
I would go with 1/2 or 3/4. With the size of your compressor 1/2 would probably work but 3/4 isn’t much more. The more air you can fit in there the more air storage you will have. Thats why lateral systems work so well. It lets the air cool and adds storage room.
would it be a big issue to add copper to my existing black iron pipe. i think i can get away with about another 30 feet if i run my piping horiztonally across, back and forth in my garage
Yes that would be fine. I wouldn’t get rid of what you have, it’s already there. If you plan on keeping the pipe there for awhile I would use a dielectric union between the copper and iron just to be safe.
good deal. Thanks for the tip.
I will update with pics once i add the pipe.
Soldering copper is not legal for air lines. They must be brazed, which is even easier than solder. Sweating pipe is standard for water, which, in the event of a fire, will just douse the flames. An air line will fan the flames and be a major problem. Get the oxy/acet torch out and a couple of brazing sticks and do a couple of test runs. You don’t even have to clean up the joints when you braze.
i use to get those craters too its cause by silica or oil in the area you are working on. go to your paint supplier and ask for fish eye remover and add some to your clear and it removes all of those craters i use it all the time and i get flawless finishes
I ran 60 foot of copper in my garage. Its 3/4 and found it to be a walk in the park to solder. You can find a ton of info about piping and air supply from Hub over on the aset website.
I’ve always ran 1″ in the past, and it was always galvanized or PVC. Galv pipe is as big a pain as black iron, and not that much cleaner, and pvc always leaks, doesn’t cool the air, and it’s also illegal. I planned 1″ in the new shop, but they’re asking $125 for a 20′ stick? WHAT?!? So I’m saving a few and going 3/4″ and putting the extra $ into a couple of good hose reels.
I just ran into this page – have you looked into the possiblility of trapped air? like it says here for craters? I don’t know how you check for something like that, except – do you see the crater when you spray it? or does it show up later?
http://www.tcpglobal.com/solverindex.html
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