Any of you guys on the Dark Side?
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Do any of you real body men ever use the ‘bad’ techniques of vinyl-wrapping, PDR, PlastiDipping, etc.?
I’m looking at doing some of this stuff, since the body shops in my town are doing [i]exclusively[/i] insurance jobs. There is no option for cheap paint jobs, and I’m not about to get into the $499 crap….
I don’t have a booth, so any shot of real body work is impossible at this time.
This is the latest thing that is really surprising. Great [i]temporary[/i] coatings. I can seem myself ‘dipping’ the shop cars every year.
:huh: Well Ain’t that some shit. I bet this would be a good thing to get into a lot of kids love the matte look nowadays and its cheap its not permanent and appears to come off err peel very easy when you want to remove it.
if I was to do this I would not use the hand held sprayer but more of a professional airless sprayer would be much faster and probably a nicer finish.
well off to remove all the PPG stuff I got
……packs up the envirobase……..packs up the Concept…………packs up the DBC………..
Unboxes 5 gallon jugs of the 10 colors plasti dip comes in ……. sets up shop in driveway……
pff no need for all this masking crap anymore hahahanow I just need plasti dip mixing formulas and a plasti dip variant deck…….. :whistle:
I did plasti dip my rims a few weeks back! As for my personal opinion
what you to your car is like tattoo’s. “cheap tattoo’s aren’t good, and
good tattoo’s aren’t cheap”.It may be cheap, but it gets dirty fast and
starts to peal off way to easily for my taste.My point is simply this: How many body shops, or how many of you, do cheap paint jobs? I’ve seen a lot of cars painted with good quality paint, but no color change in the jambs or under the hood, masked emblems, etc. It looks like crap, and is permanent.
I would never waste my time.
If done right, something as stupid as PlastiDip will last 6-12 months with absolutely no issues. ‘Up to 3 years’ is the claim I keep hearing. It doesn’t chip, is difficult to peel, and if it’s sprayed right the finish really isn’t bad.
I can offer the kids a <$1000 option, and not have them all pissed when it doesn't last, or have my reputation turn to crap when their chalky paint does. I can offer the commercial guys a way to save their paint all winter long. PPF is hundreds of dollars, and it only helps, not stop all the chips, and it also looks like crap in a few years time.
Rims are brutal, admittedly, but if any of it starts to peel it is 100% repairable.
Am I insane?
The attachment did not open in my Firefox browser, but I do “econo” jobs too. I have a sign in the window that says ECONOMY PAINT–We wash and throughly scuff the surface, remove loose paint, cover and tape, spray sealer, then topcoat, we paint over minor dents, but it will stick and be shiny. Maybe we can use leftover paint thats in stock. Cost $400-$700
VALUE PAINT-We sand the vehicle, prime the top sections with 2k urethane, resand, watersand, You may still have minor imperfections but the hood roof and deck will be SLICK. Cost $700-$1000
PREMIUM PAINT-We strip to bare metal the hood roof and trunk, build back with urethane 2 K primer. Block sand with 320 grit, watersand with 400-600 grit, tape spray with either base clear or high grade solid color urethane. Expect surface to be very flat high gloss. Some minor dust nibs, still very nice, this is our specialty. Cost $800- $1500
SHOW PAINT-Strip entire car to bare metal, repair all dings, coat in acid etch primer, build back surface with 2k urethane primer, block sand, water block, reprime as needed, wet inspect, paint door jambs, paint under hood and deck, dissaseble car as needed, paint with high solid urethane, or base clear with premium high solid clear, color sand and buff. expect trophies and lots of copliments! cost $3000-????
RESTORATION JOBS-Be prepared to get it done, we can price it a section at a time. stripping cost, metal repair cost, dissasembly cost, etc. On older vehicles you never know whats under the surface? I try to have a paint job for ANYBODY.I watched a few of these videos a couple weeks ago and was intrigued with the product. I don’t know much about it, just looks like a spray on wrap. When I get some time I’d like to contact the company and try and get some to do a video, see what its all about. Interesting stuff!
[quote=”billgaino” post=27704]The attachment did not open in my Firefox browser, but I do “econo” jobs too. I have a sign in the window that says ECONOMY PAINT–We wash and throughly scuff the surface, remove loose paint, cover and tape, spray sealer, then topcoat, we paint over minor dents, but it will stick and be shiny. Maybe we can use leftover paint thats in stock. Cost $400-$700
VALUE PAINT-We sand the vehicle, prime the top sections with 2k urethane, resand, watersand, You may still have minor imperfections but the hood roof and deck will be SLICK. Cost $700-$1000
PREMIUM PAINT-We strip to bare metal the hood roof and trunk, build back with urethane 2 K primer. Block sand with 320 grit, watersand with 400-600 grit, tape spray with either base clear or high grade solid color urethane. Expect surface to be very flat high gloss. Some minor dust nibs, still very nice, this is our specialty. Cost $800- $1500
SHOW PAINT-Strip entire car to bare metal, repair all dings, coat in acid etch primer, build back surface with 2k urethane primer, block sand, water block, reprime as needed, wet inspect, paint door jambs, paint under hood and deck, dissaseble car as needed, paint with high solid urethane, or base clear with premium high solid clear, color sand and buff. expect trophies and lots of copliments! cost $3000-????
RESTORATION JOBS-Be prepared to get it done, we can price it a section at a time. stripping cost, metal repair cost, dissasembly cost, etc. On older vehicles you never know whats under the surface? I try to have a paint job for ANYBODY.[/quote]If that works for you, more power to you.
Here’s my perception of this approach: You will probably never get a steady flow of high-quality work. If the vast majority of your paint jobs are cheapos, the customers with money will not be impressed when they see your cars. If you do mostly high end restos, people will ship cars in from all around to get your quality level.
Other shops do only scratches and dings for insurance companies, and avoid repaints all together! Or at least repaints with a new color.
Hmmmmm…interesting. Looks like a fairly inexpensive and time efficient way to wrap a car..and to think I was just about to order a down draft like Dinger and now I don’t have to :).
I joined a classic car club and they sent me all the members names and adress. I figured I would send each a letter telling them how great my shop was, then I got to thinking about all the nit picky members that think their cars have to be perfect and I put my idea away. I would rather paint and install a bumper cover for a little old lady’s insurance for 1000$, than to have to deal with nit picky customers that send cars from far away. I can make it up in volume. Bill
Yeah I’m in the same boat Bill. When I start hearing that the person is really passionate about their car and they want to get a super cheap paint job, I kind of turn them away. One car can 1500 for 2 days work where an anal customer will be 1500 for 2 weeks of hard boring work.
That’s why I’m pretty excited about this new paint, I think what people want in this day and age is spray on vinyl wraps, not paint jobs. I think it’s too hard to get money for a job that will take any more than 2 days to do so a complete paint job in 5 or 6 hours seems like a real way to make money to me.With the tunner scene, this could be very profitable. A nice matte finish, change colors often, nothing perment. Ths could work for those high end cars that want the matt finish, but now it isnt perment & can be taken off when ready to sell.
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