Anyone used the glasso “scratch resistant” Clear?
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- May 12, 2010 at 8:13 am #21191
Looking at the site I noticed Glasurit has a new clear listed “923-447 HS Clear scratch resistant” Anyone used it? Says its VOC compliant, does that mean it isn’t as good as the 923-109? :lol1
AnonymousMay 12, 2010 at 3:44 pm #21197Haven’t tried it but I can say I’ve use the really low voc 923-200 and it was one of my favorites….but really pricey! I think 109 would still be hard to beat.
May 12, 2010 at 3:46 pm #21198only thing with scratch resistant clears is that they are hard as concrete. as long as you dont plan to buff them or put then on something thats too flexible your alright.
May 12, 2010 at 4:43 pm #21199It would be going on the bottom of a trailered race boat, so durability is paramount. Once it comes out of the booth, thats it, there isn’t going to be any buffing or messing with it unless it is damaged. I have plenty of -109 to use on the deck :woohoo:
I was going to use AwlGrip, but it is non-repairable and non-buffable.
May 13, 2010 at 6:06 am #21213awl grip is really the thing to use. its a pain in the balls to spray and not really user friendly but for your use the best thing. why do you say its unrepairable or unbuffable? i used to work for one of the largest yacht manufacturers in the world and sprayed the stuff quite often. we buffed it and blended in areas all the time. thats the most durable paint i have ever used.
May 13, 2010 at 6:33 am #21214AwlCRAFT 2000 is buffable and blendable. The AwlGrip is a linear polyurethane, and is not buffable or repairable. This is both according to akzo nobel tech line and [u][url=http://www.awlgrip.com/Product%20Datasheets/3193+A+eng+A4.pdf]their data sheet here[/url][/u]. Once you break the slick hard finish of an LPU, it will never have the same resiliency, and 6 or 8 months down the road the repaired area will go dull and stick out like a sore thumb. Fixing minor dust nibs and blending can be done within the first 24 hours, but AG doesn’t tell you that in the tech sheet.
Shooting it isn’t an issue for me, I use a 1.2 tip for my sharpe with a 14″ fan that will lay black awlgrip out like glass.
May 14, 2010 at 6:42 am #21237thats pretty interesting. we would do it all the time, not saying it was right or anything. i have never heard of any dulling problems. i remember shooting the hull of a 72 foot sportfish yacht. there were 3 of us being rolled around on scaffolding just spraying non stop. that thing came out far from perfect and i remember about 20 guys sanding and buffing the whole hull when it was done. we had the rep from US paint there with us too. this was some years back. maybe some things changed with it or hell for all i know 8 months later the whole hull went to shit!! :lol1
May 14, 2010 at 8:01 am #21239its technically OK if you do it in the first 24-48hrs as long as you aren’t sanding out huge thick runs. the dulling also isn’t quite as bad with light colors. With black and dark blue, the stuff is so damn hard its almost impossible to get the sand scratches out of it. even if you do, if you’re outside of that window when the stuff is still “green” it’ll dull up where you rubbed on it.
I might just go with the awlcraft, it’s not quite as durable, but I’m not sure I want to experiment with something like this.
May 14, 2010 at 3:03 pm #21241ahhh, we were always pure white or close to it. never tried the awlcraft so i know nothing of that.
May 14, 2010 at 5:15 pm #21242It looks, feels, and sprays just like original watery awlgrip, :rofl it’s just acrylic based instead of a polyester based. I’ll post a few pictures when I spray it.
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