Applying Sealers
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So i went through the worst and first hail season of my life in the wichita area. My areas of trouble were the same on just about every car. getting the sealer to lay down uniformly. Large hoods and roofs were a struggle almost everytime. No matter how wet or uniform i thought i was applying the sealer, when it dried it looked tiger stripped. or mottled. before the base. which usually means…. The base will highlight that effect. My question is is using my base gun to apply sealer the wrong thing to do? And what gun would you recommend for applying sealers. We use ppg deltron 2000 base. I have high end guns. I wata supernova 1.3 for base. also have a sata jet 3000 for base 1.3. and a satajet 4000rp for clears. all 1.3. was wondering if i should step up to a bigger say 1.5 for sealers and base on large vertical panels? any thing helps!!!!!
Greg
a good rule of thumb is to mix your sealer one step slower than your topcoat. Slow it down and spray like clear
what i have seen of our reducers is…. dt 870 70degrees dt885 degrees dt895 95 dt898 98 and above. i can control the temp in the booth in the winter…. so should i shoot my sealer reduced at say dt 885 and base with 870? i have tried just about everything with my problem. and dealing with my paint rep is like a monkey fucking a football. ppg is very new to me. any ppg advice would be great!
What sealer are you using? For a complete you will want to use 885 or 895. Also at least 885 in the base
das sealer. ppg i use pretty much 885 on everything. i never have problems with horizontal panels. just large vertical panels… hoods and roofs
am i ok using my base gun to apply sealer???Using the same gun as you do for base is fine. What is your overlap when spraying? Is the sealer going on too dry and grainy? As long as the sealer is smooth when it dries you should be fine. Your spraying technique is likely what is affecting the look of the base.
I would say you need the slowest mix as possible for sealer,definately move up on nozzle size,1.3 iwata won’t put out very much material.You mean large flat panels like roofs and hoods?I find that odd since those are the easiest parts to keep wet,people usually have trouble with the sides.
I think your problems is the 1.3 tip
I use 3000rp with 1.4 on larger areas and hvlp 1.4 on spots
How you like the 4000rp for clear?
Use dt885. & stay with 85 with the base, unless u turn the temp down 870 will dry faster then u think. I use a 3000 hvlp 1.3 for sealing & baseing. On the sealer I do like to turn the fan pattern in so it is as wide as my old 90jet. But that’s for film build. As for the motling & tiger striping I wouldn’t worry about it. After 3 coats of base you won’t see that problem. I have notice that with the tiger striping when the pod linner sucks in it will change the patern of the gun. A 1.4 tip would be ideal, but I know that a new kit is like 300, try turning the patern in tighter.
what would u suggest? a 1.5? what would be the best gun for sealer as well
i like the 4000 rp for clear. well worth the money. its super light and extremely comfortable to spray with. can i use a rp for metallics? i have found i big deal of difficulty getting mettallics to oriantate properly with ppg deltron. i used to spray with sherwin ultra 7000. when spraying mettalics with ultra drop coats would get rid of mottling or anything like that. drop coats on ppg is like pissing in the wind.
You can use the 4k for baseing if u like. U want med wet coats,(probly a tad wetter)Over laping 70%. If u find mottling a problem, try using a slower reducer. It will take some finessing your tech., after all your going from 1 product that needs to be sprayed one way, to another sprayed another way. As for the sealer, 1.4 or 1.5 if u have it.
The range on the reducers can very quite a bit
Dt870—70-85. I use this on bumpers, spot jobs or cuttin off a fender, possibly if u have the temp down maybe blending a door. If your like me mi e is @ 85, so 70 on a blend will leave a dry edge. Or dust.Dt885—-85-95, I normally use this for any thing more then 2 panels or large panels.
Dt895–95+—-summer time or all overs.
Dt898—-when its hotter then hell out. Rarely used.
If u need any help on the ooh clears let me know.
And I can tell you what colors work well.
Like, gm 8624 white cut off
8555..use the darker alt perfect match for cut off
& Honda it’s important to enter the 11th digit of the vin for correct color match, exp. nh700m-a
I’ve been upswing delete on for 11+ yrs. so don’t be shy to askI also have 4000hvlp I use for base mostly on the harder to blend colors and its great, I’m slowly switching all my guns to 4000. I think they work great for the newer colors with all the and hi metallics and fifty different body lines on one panel. If tried another brands of guns but still find sata’s fit me the best.
Thaank youuuuu!!!!
I have been waiting for someone with adiquite ppg knowledge to pick thier brain! So what guns to u use for what? What clear do u use on large panels. I have been using 2021 on large panels and large jobs. and dc3000 on bumpers and smaller jobs. i have been painting for quite a while. just never with ppg. All the problems i am having with ppg is problems i had starting out as a painter. for some reason ppg has been killing me. I notice with silvers tiny black specks in the paint. Thats with a brand new air system brand new hose and using pps cups. and only on silvers. so i would like to be its in the toners? which are only quart size and get swiched out often. (high production shop) also how long do u bake the clears. it seems like it takes forever before i can cut and buff. a lot of cars i paint in the mornings still go that day. and a lot of cars i rush buff the spots come back. is there any way to eliminate this? and i will take all the color advice u will give me. because ppg colormatches are horrible! i painted with sherwin ultra 7000 a few years back and they have ten times the colormatching capabilities. which is sad…..
Have you ever considered switching to waterborne??? PPG’s color matches are great in water.
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