Applying Sealers
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As cor the black specs i had those ocassionaly, just make sure u mix the toners a couple of times a day.
I use dc3000 for the smal jobs, bumpers, no more then 3 panels. If you use it for a hood & fenders, drop the bake metsl temp down to 120 bake between 5-10 mins. Just check it.
For the larger panels i use dc4000, with the dch3070 hardener bake @ 10 -15 mins, but check on it. If u use 85 haedener in it, it will be harder to cut buff later, if u got to, i use a heat lamp for 15 mins after bake. Then cut and buff.
2021 i would use dt870 reducer this will kick your bake and buff times faster. That clear is design to do an all over so it will dry slower. Thats why its a problem on cut and buff.
I also use dc2000 clear, great wet on wet clear (no tack time) you can pull out in 15 mins and buff it in 30 mins. I have used it to clear a complete front end but used. Slower reducer so it doesnt kick to fast. But there is a trick to use it. U have to double coat the parts, exp. half hood 2 coats, then do the other side.
Other then the 2021 clea the dc clears are temp sensitive, so make sure u have the temp in both set coreectly.
The color matches really arent that bad, just gonna take a while for u to figure out what works bet. If u do t get the chip deck that helps, if u run into a problem color, let know.
[quote=”lild” post=29246]The color matches really arent that bad, just gonna take a while for u to figure out what works bet. If u do t get the chip deck that helps, if u run into a problem color, let know.[/quote]
Except the formulas dont always match the chips :whistle:
Curious as to how you are able to get away using fast hardener on everything?
That’s cause your not holding the chips in the angle of the sun.
& I can use fast hardness cause the clear is slow drying. The tech sheets do come in handy some times.Again thanks. I just recently tried using the 870 reducer with 2021 and the clear actually laid down a hell of a lot better than with the 885. i turned the booth down to 75 tho. as for ur bake recomendations….. i have been baking my jobs for 50 min. is this way too long. 140 at 50 min. i did buy a sata nr2000 1.4 to apply sealer. just used it on a roof of a suzuki sx4 and the results where awesome. aperently switching to a bigger needle for sealer really helped. no blotchness no tiger strip no mottling. and it was a silver. but the specs were there and there are a lot. and im constantly keeping toners mixed up. What im curious of is those specs look aweful big to make it through a pps strainer. but its def in the silvers. becuase i dont have that problem on any other color. and my last and final question…. first of all i cant express how much gratitude i have to your help! so hear goes. prepping a silver car. I spend what i think is adiquite time prepping them. A lot of times i have my helper prepping and he usually does a good job. but on every silver car he does, and i cant see this until i clear, is 320 grit scratches. what i have taught him to do is dry block with durablocks. make sure the bodymans shit body work is pinhole free and block to make sure there are no dents remaining…. (lots of hail jobs). i have him do this with 320. i then have him da over the blocked areas with 500 grit. but on everysilver car i do. if i look hard enough i can find the 320 marks. and even if there are 320 scratches…. shouldnt the das sealers fill these scratches. When i started painting i wet sanded all the primer with 400 grit and a paint stick. do i need to go back to the basics and wet sand everything from now on? well silvers anyways? i am going to ppg training next tuesday in kansas city so hopefully i wont be writing to many more novels on here…. lol I also used that nr2000 for base on a 2011 infiniti and was very impressed with the results. i am really rethinking my 1.3 guns. It surprises me that in my mind the nr2000 out performs my 3000 hvlp by quite a bit. but again maybe its the bigger needle?
yes i have and want to. but what i have heard about waterborne is u have to be able to control the humidity in the booth. which i cannot do with this booth. and wichita can be humid as hell. is there truth to this?
[quote=”thekansaskid” post=29289]yes i have and want to. but what i have heard about waterborne is u have to be able to control the humidity in the booth. which i cannot do with this booth. and wichita can be humid as hell. is there truth to this?[/quote]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYpBsNNqm6sTid bit of info from SATA on adjusting your technique ( gun settings ) to compensate for high or low humidity.
Might help..might not… :nothingtoad
Kansas – swapping from 320 block to 500 on a DA is quite a jump which may be why your guy is leaving some scratch marks in the jobs. I’d suggest at least that he uses a guide coat so he can see exactly when all of the straight sanding lines have gone. Although if it were me I’d be tempted to DA with 400 instead to cut the scratches out quicker and make it less of a jump. I’ve no experience with the sealer you are using but I haven’t tried one yet that won’t fill a 400 DA scratch.
[quote=”Andy T” post=29299]Kansas – swapping from 320 block to 500 on a DA is quite a jump which may be why your guy is leaving some scratch marks in the jobs. I’d suggest at least that he uses a guide coat so he can see exactly when all of the straight sanding lines have gone. Although if it were me I’d be tempted to DA with 400 instead to cut the scratches out quicker and make it less of a jump. I’ve no experience with the sealer you are using but I haven’t tried one yet that won’t fill a 400 DA scratch.[/quote]
I agree, though a lot of painters seem to favour 500 disc for some reason.
400 D.A. disc is much quicker and longer lasting than 500
lol you dont want to go back to wet flatting/blocking, so bloody messy and time consuming
[quote=”thekansaskid” post=29288]Again thanks. I just recently tried using the 870 reducer with 2021 and the clear actually laid down a hell of a lot better than with the 885. i turned the booth down to 75 tho. as for ur bake recomendations….. i have been baking my jobs for 50 min. is this way too long. 140 at 50 min. i did buy a sata nr2000 1.4 to apply sealer. just used it on a roof of a suzuki sx4 and the results where awesome. aperently switching to a bigger needle for sealer really helped. no blotchness no tiger strip no mottling. and it was a silver. but the specs were there and there are a lot. and im constantly keeping toners mixed up. What im curious of is those specs look aweful big to make it through a pps strainer. but its def in the silvers. becuase i dont have that problem on any other color. and my last and final question…. first of all i cant express how much gratitude i have to your help! so hear goes. prepping a silver car. I spend what i think is adiquite time prepping them. A lot of times i have my helper prepping and he usually does a good job. but on every silver car he does, and i cant see this until i clear, is 320 grit scratches. what i have taught him to do is dry block with durablocks. make sure the bodymans shit body work is pinhole free and block to make sure there are no dents remaining…. (lots of hail jobs). i have him do this with 320. i then have him da over the blocked areas with 500 grit. but on everysilver car i do. if i look hard enough i can find the 320 marks. and even if there are 320 scratches…. shouldnt the das sealers fill these scratches. When i started painting i wet sanded all the primer with 400 grit and a paint stick. do i need to go back to the basics and wet sand everything from now on? well silvers anyways? i am going to ppg training next tuesday in kansas city so hopefully i wont be writing to many more novels on here…. lol I also used that nr2000 for base on a 2011 infiniti and was very impressed with the results. i am really rethinking my 1.3 guns. It surprises me that in my mind the nr2000 out performs my 3000 hvlp by quite a bit. but again maybe its the bigger needle?[/quote]
Hey mate it seems that I’m still the only one who still wet flats, in my eyes hitting it with a da might be quicker but it doesn’t give you the same finish as a wet flat, for a silver car is wet flat the primer with 800 and with the rest of the panel wet flat with 1000 the get rid of the orange peel or bad paint finish from an out repair. If its not to bad then scotch. I have noticed in the past doing blends on silver or pearls, ull ave a smooth finish where the primer repair is then a scotch paint some times but not always the paint will lay different between them. With wet flat I find there’s less chance of rubbing through or losing the right lines lol yeh it is messy and it does take longer but if you clean as you go I don’t see the problem .
I do spent a lot of time fixing repairs in which cars have been repaired with waterbourne an problems pop up weeks later. Know with me being still being on solvent, water base makes my job hell if a garage has done a ( quick Friday f#ck it job) ha ha . Dies any one else still use solvent and still wet flat
I use 320 da cuase it creates finer scratches, the body guys use 400, which what I would use if your hand blocking body work. You can try switching to the 125 wb strainers, might help with the spec problem.
50 min bake is a long time, I go 30 mins most. May u need to get a digital thermo gun check the metal temp while it bakeing. It may not be getting up to 140. Get some dc4000 with dch3085 & dch3070.
With the 70 is a 10 min bake @120 the other is 20 min.As for the guns go with feels better. Don’t waste time with one if in your mind the other works better.
[quote=”thekansaskid” post=29289]yes i have and want to. but what i have heard about waterborne is u have to be able to control the humidity in the booth. which i cannot do with this booth. and wichita can be humid as hell. is there truth to this?[/quote]
In the winter that’s not a problem for a heated booth. In the summer I just reducer it down more to help with the dry times.yes i have wanted to try finer strainers. when i asked the paint rep about them he said it would change the color if its to fine. how fine are the pps strainers?
i have the pull to get envirobase. just nervous because i have never sprayed wb. dont want to open the door to a boat load of new problems…
Your jobber needs a new job. I have them, I spray both dbc & enviro, so inne the 125’s he’ll I even strain the clear with them. No problems, there finer to catch the extra dried up crap out of wb.
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