Are any of the straight line sanders worth it?

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  • July 12, 2013 at 1:46 am #43606

    I’m new to this business, and do not have a straight line sander. I have been blocking a car for about a week now, and my elbows are starting to bother me. If a straight line sander produced a flat and straight result, it seems like it would be a good investment.

    Thoughts or recommendations are appreciated, thanks.

    July 12, 2013 at 3:54 am #43608

    Hutchins probably makes the most reliable one.

    They have their place, as well as their limitations. If you are working on thin metal (that flexes a lot) or aren’t completely sturdy handling the sander, you can make the panel much worse.

    I no longer own one. I only used it on larger jobs and always finished my blocking by hand.

    If you are doing a lot of filler work on large jobs with somewhat fla panels all the time, then it is very worth while. Otherwise use good products (filler, primer and high quality sandpaper) to make easy work of it by hand.

    July 12, 2013 at 5:19 am #43611

    I own a straight line sander and use it quite often to just take of the top skim and sort of rough it out before i block by hand, it is worth its weight in gold when you are strapped for time and need to tear of the mud in a hurry. But i would never final sand with one, they are generally too fast for that.

    July 13, 2013 at 5:55 am #43626

    I’m using the Marson Platinum filler and 3M gold sand paper to do my hand blocking. I’ve been trying to get the filler as close as I can with the spreader, then I rough it out with some 180 grit on the DA, and block by hand with 180. Advice or critique on this process or product selection is appreciated.

    The project is more restoration based than repair based (it’s an 87 Buick Regal with a turbo charged V6) and it’s going to be a very dark black, so I’m spending more time straightening it than any other car I’ve done to date. It seems like it’s taking an awfully long time for me to get it blocked flat, I’ve been working on getting it flat for a week now, and it’s still not ready for hi-build primer.

    Just looking for an easier way is all.

    July 13, 2013 at 6:18 am #43627

    I don’t think the gold paper is all that great, but then again, it’s been many years since I used any. I’m not familiar with the filler. However, 180 grit is too fine to start blocking with. Most people will start with 80 and get it as close as you can. Then skim with a good putty, block that with 80-120 and finish anywhere from 180 to 220 before primer… Or some process very similar.

    Blocking with 180 is way to slow and very hard to get the panel quite as straight as you like.

    July 13, 2013 at 1:06 pm #43629

    I use a line sander for getting the shape , then block by hand with 80grid , like Ben says 180 is way to fine to get it straight.

    July 13, 2013 at 7:29 pm #43630

    One thing I should clarify…
    The inline sanders do vibrate a lot. In my right arm, I’ve torn the tendon at my elbow twice and broken my wrist before. With those injuries, it makes it a little difficult for me to hold onto this type of tool for anything more than a few minutes. Some of these sanders come with an orbital pattern (rather than straight line) and are a little easier to control but also a little slower.

    The straight line Hutchins Hustler is probably the most durable and most aggressive one out there. It works well, but in inexperienced hands can mess up your filler work quickly. Remember to keep the pad completely flat with the panel.

    One alternate for just knocking filler down is a mud hog. It’s a large 8″ round sander ( I believe with an orbital pattern) and will knock the first bit if filler down a little quicker than an air board. Both would be good to eventually have if you do lots of filler work.

    July 13, 2013 at 8:18 pm #43631

    The way to knock down filler fast is with good sharp paper and don’t be afraid to change it often.Back in the old days it was very common to do a 12-16hr repair on a boxside or a quarter.The only way to do it fast was to use either a 8″ mud hog like Ben suggested or the inline sander.Your first coat should be just to get the shape and knock it down fast with either 40-80 depending on filler brand,then once you have it close SKIM the entire area.You can either knock it down to get it close with a machine and then finish it off by a hand block(only way to get it flat and straight)With collision repair you want to get it nice so you only have to prime it once.With restos you are usually going to prime it and block it twice so even if you finish you body work in 100 it will be easier to keep straight,the finer you go the wavier your bodywork will get.I was a diehard platinum filler guy for many years but have since started using rage ultra,its the easiest sanding filler I have found in 25 years.

    The way I do a resto is to finish bodywork in 80 to 120 apply epoxy and either 2k urethane primer or a spray poly,then block with 150-180,reprime block with 400,seal and paint.Again collision repairs are finished finer so you only prime once for production.

    I hate the hutchins hustler,its too top heavy and slow due to a short stroke.The best inline is the original atcoa viking,if you can find one,very smooth and fast,bullet proof.

    http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&p=atcoa+viking

    [URL=http://s580.photobucket.com/user/jaysonm1969/media/SSPX0006_zps95b5e41b.jpg.html]

    [IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0006_zps95b5e41b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
    [URL=http://s580.photobucket.com/user/jaysonm1969/media/SSPX0008_zps25032d2b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss241/jaysonm1969/SSPX0008_zps25032d2b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

    July 14, 2013 at 1:06 am #43632

    Changing to 80 grit to block immediately, that will speed the process dramatically.

    I haven’t done much research on sand paper beyond price. I’ll do my own research, but if anyone here has a recommendation, I’d like to hear it.

    There is what appears to be the same Atcoa sander in your picture on E-bay for $75:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/151005381415?item=151005381415&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

    I have asked a question to the seller just to verify that it works (his description is… uh… lacking) but if they confirm the sander works, I’ll probably pick that up.

    July 14, 2013 at 1:51 am #43633

    Pretty tough to go wrong with norton/carbo sandpaper,cheap paper is not a bargain as you will use twice at much so it costs more in the long run.Using a good sandpaper and change it often is the key to cutting filler efficiently.For $75 I would scoop the sander if it works.

    July 14, 2013 at 6:36 am #43635

    Second on Norton/Carbo. In our part of the world it is the best bang for your buck.

    $75 for any working name brand inline sander sounds like a good price.

    July 14, 2013 at 5:21 pm #43643

    One of the things I always struggled with was doors and ending up with waves down the panel. Even though I had a 14″ speedfile, putting any pressure on the panel flexed the metal and I got waves. Eventually I bought a straight line sander, just one of the cheaper ones to trial the concept, and the results have been way better. Because the sander is doing the work I can hold it with minimal pressure and just guide it over the top. Works way better for me.

    Mine appears to be a copy of that Atcoa, looks identical but without the brand and so long as you keep the oil up to it it works a treat. Cost about $75 too. I’m using Sunmight paper with it and that seems to be pretty good. Change paper as soon as it loses its’ sharpness.

    July 14, 2013 at 5:49 pm #43644

    [quote=”NFT5″ post=32382]One of the things I always struggled with was doors and ending up with waves down the panel. Even though I had a 14″ speedfile, putting any pressure on the panel flexed the metal and I got waves. [/quote]

    14″ is too short for finishing long panels.

    July 15, 2013 at 3:20 am #43647

    Call me Gay if you want but for large amounts of filler/Mud work i use a cheese grater, IMO i think its faster and it definitely cuts down on dust, Build it up and carve it out at the right time.lol It is recommended you scratch the filler with 40 grit between coats. I have used just about every brand of paper out there and find that Norton is the best bang for your buck.

    July 15, 2013 at 6:41 am #43649

    i have to agree with most of you guys here. i have the hutchins inline. i dont use it often but it comes in handy in the right places on the right type of panel. great for resto work on the cars from 50’s to 70’s that have large flat hoods and doors. the hutchins is top heavy and just heavy all together but it is built very well and really solid and smooth. i only use it on initial cut and with 36 grit norton blue airfile sheets. agree with you guys on the norton too. the airfiles i think are very slow to cut. an 8″ mud hog would be way faster and prob work just as well. i can however get a panel with thin metal that flexes flatter with the airfile than i can by hand like nft said. your not pushing a board across the panel flexing it. your just gently and slowly working things flat with little pressure

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