Base coat gun recommendations
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[quote=”Manback” post=29315][quote=”JackMarshall” post=29280][quote=”rikka23″ post=29261][quote=”JackMarshall” post=29260]Yep, I use a Devilbiss Gti Pro 1.3/1.4 for base with a T1 aircap and its spot on.
Not sure if the aircaps are named different in different countries.[/quote]
If I remember rightly the t2 is for the fast flow which lays the material down with a ( original) finish lol and the t1 give a nice show room glass finish.if you use them for clear like I do, I’ve never used the t1 for color which is interesting as I use iwata w400 for color wonder how they would compare :lol1[/quote]
T2 is fast flow for gloss/clears T1 is suited to solvent basecoat. I have tried the T1 for clear and it does not work well.
T110 is the latest aircap for the standard gti for HS clears and glosses which is superb.[/quote]
I tried the T110 with DeBeer WB the other day, prefer it to the H1 cap my GTi pro came with.[/quote]
lechler and debeer are one of the few who don’t recommend the hvlp for their waterbase. they recommend the t1 cap. devilbiss have all the recommendations on their site for each paint manufacturer.
Walcom also have thier own recondations plus those of the manufacturers which sometimes vary
i actualy prefer a compliant gun over a HVLP for waterbourne and if you look at Sata’s youtube video for waterbased the sprayer is actualy using an RP when you would have expeted them to use the WSB HVLP gun for it
i find water likes to be atomised more finely and maybe im guesing but the extra pressure and air velocity may well be ridding the product of moisture en route ,ANI do a gun called the Idea model, it actualy comes with a funky heater under the gun which works on airflow not electricty specificaly for waterbournes in order to warm the product up as its aplied to aid drying in much the same way as turbine system would by producing warm air
Does anyone here use sata hvlp’s for base coat? I currently own two sata rp’s and was thinking of getting a first gen hvlp with wsb cap. Would that be any good for solvent base? Never really used the sata’s in hvlp
An nr2000 with a regular tip would be fine for solvent base as would a tekna or rp.
I’ve been told to go for a nr2000 with 1.5 setup what do you think? Do they atomise finely
Kind of depends on what brand of paint you use,could be anywhere from a 1.3-1.5.They don’t atomize as well as an rp but for base thats what you want especially for blending.I would say a 1.4 would work very well with anything.
I use a Sata 3000 HVLP digital 1.4 for base and I love it. Its a much better gun than I am a painter. I love the way it sprays the metallics. I just sprayed a Chevelle with the cheapest shitty Sherwin Williams metallic silver, and even it turned out great.
Also is it just me or did that car look a little shiney to be painting on?
[quote=”Jayson M” post=29634]Kind of depends on what brand of paint you use,could be anywhere from a 1.3-1.5.They don’t atomize as well as an rp but for base thats what you want especially for blending.I would say a 1.4 would work very well with anything.[/quote]
I’m currently using Standox solvent base coat.
Honestly I’m not familiar with standox as I have never sprayed it.I couldn’t find a tech sheet for it without registering at their site.I would read a tech sheet for your product and see what they suggest.But if you like speed and you spray in hotter conditions maybe the 1.4 or 1.5 would be the way to go.I’m guessing they would suggest a 1.3,seems dupont likes that tip size.
Xchaser, someone on another forum using that user name was talking about how much they liked a CA Technologies Techline gun that they had —-was that you? –Do you still have a good opinion of that gun? I was thinking about buying one—-Thanks
I use a sata 3000 hvlp digital with 1.3 tip for basecoat
But I find it uses a lot of material but I get zero orange peel with it I also spray clear with it
I use the sata 3000 hvlp 1.4 (I have the 1.3 set up also) for solvent base and clear. It was my only gun for 6 years. I sprayed base, candy, pearl, clear, and big flake everything with it. No digital gauge I don’t use a gauge. I go by sound. I just assume digital would need maintenence and batteries so I opted out. Great gun to bad they don’t make it any more. I’ll probably get a 4000 this year.
I did the same thing with the same gun. It was pretty much my only gun for a super long time. Sprayed everything with it and it performed flawlessly everytime. I do have the digital gauge and as you said, I had some battery trouble with it and it occasionally shows 4 psi on the stand. I just take that into account when I spray, but like you, I mostly go by sound.
How the hell do you’ll go by sound? After 14-15 years I can’t tell what psi I’m at by listening to a gun. Maybe I’m not one with the gun! :blush:
Everytime I have tried and tested it against an aircap test gauge I am never right.
Funny you mention that Ryan 😛 At a paint course I went to the instructor made us set the air pressure by ear and then let us look at the gauge to see what it was.The pressures were anywhere from 15-50psi….not even close to being accurate.The point was your ears aren’t as accurate as a gauge.
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