Base color adhesion issue

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  • December 1, 2012 at 2:15 am #39524

    Gents,
    What would cause base adhesion problems, for example.
    painted a new urethane bumper with the following:
    washed and cleaned bumper with soap and water.
    scrubbed with scotch brite bad and sanding paste.
    cleaned again using alcohol.
    used BullDog adhesion promoter.
    sealed with epoxy sealer.
    painted base color.
    let dry overnight.
    taped off for two tone using finish line tape.
    painted second color.

    when i removed the finish line tape, in certain areas it pulled the original base color off the sealer.

    methods attempted:
    painted base while primer/sealer has just finished flashing.
    painted base a few days after primer/sealer was used.
    painted base after a few days of primer drying then sanded with 500.
    tried epoxy sealer and primer/surfacer that yield the same results.

    all of the above methods proved poor base adhesion……what am i doing wrong??

    December 1, 2012 at 2:29 am #39525

    Hey mate for rm diamont paint I know you can leave the base only up to 16 hours before clear. Longer then that and you have to resend or scotch the base. So if you based the bumper just before 5 pm you’ve only got till 9am to reapply a base coat.
    So I’m thinkin you left the base to long having to apply to different bases. With the second base goin on the tape would maybe help for the base to pull off. When I’ve bases a motor bike frame and put stencils and left it over nite it pulled the base off as well

    December 1, 2012 at 3:45 am #39530

    Have you tried activating your base? And also using a less aggressive masking tape. We use the 3m yellow tape, for waterborne, because it has a less aggressive stick than the green.
    http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UF6EVsSyXTtnXfanxM_EVtQEVs6EVs6EVs6E666666–&fn=70-0711-0230-8.pdf

    December 1, 2012 at 3:57 am #39534

    [quote=”nick1″ post=28564]Have you tried activating your base? And also using a less aggressive masking tape. We use the 3m yellow tape, for waterborne, because it has a less aggressive stick than the green.
    http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UF6EVsSyXTtnXfanxM_EVtQEVs6EVs6EVs6E666666–&fn=70-0711-0230-8.pdf%5B/quote%5D

    Hey have you used the 3m yellow for solvent as I used the blue and it left a horrible masking edge
    Cheers 🙂

    December 1, 2012 at 6:15 am #39555

    What basecoat are you using? Is the sealer the appropriate sealer for that base?

    Some of the economy base coats do not 2-tone well and the first colour may need to be cleared before doing the 2nd.

    One trick with the masking tape, is to run your finger across it first (to dull it a bit) before applying it to the fresh (sensitive base). There are a few fine line tapes to choose from. The Blue tape from 3m works well with most solvent base and the purple works well with most water base. As mentioned, the yellow 3M masking tape has a pretty forgiving adhasive (as does the geen 3M tape) but they do not leave as nice an edge as the fine line.

    December 1, 2012 at 5:09 pm #39564

    What kind of base? What brand of sealer? Is the epoxy sticking good?

    December 4, 2012 at 5:48 am #39640

    Are you using sealer and base from the same manufacturer?
    If you are have you contacted your local rep?

    December 4, 2012 at 8:12 am #39649

    your doing the right thing with the wet on wet application of the sealer and base. you should wait 15-30 mins. to put tape on the base, any sooner the tape will lift the base.

    i agree that your tape may be too sticky, one thing you can do is kill the tape, to do that is to take the tape and run the sticky side across your shirt or pants, this will be less sticky.

    December 4, 2012 at 6:11 pm #39662

    Thanks for the advice guys!

    I use the yellow 3m tape and blue 1/4 finish line tape for the edges of a two tone.
    I am using economy paint as im new to painting, until my skills get better im worried on spending big bucks on expensive material.
    PPG shopline was the base
    PPG JC630 clear, if im not mistaken
    Primer surfacer and the epoxy primer are both made by Kirker.

    here is a few pics of the job in question, it was the front bumper area that i had issues with.
    Car received a full paint job, including the roof and T-Top sections black. Everything turned out quite nice, wish i had more time to cut and buff.
    the finish you see is straight off the gun with a little polishing to clean her up for the customer.

    December 5, 2012 at 5:41 am #39675

    Try to stick with one product line and follow the T.D.S

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