Best Plastic Welder?
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5887 eh? I got the 5885 thinking it was basically the same as 5887. in fact I don’t recall why, since it’s been quite a while. the 5885 is supposed to be ‘easy sand’ too. hmm I’ll have to give it another shot.
[quote=”bobwires” post=16782]5887 eh? I got the 5885 thinking it was basically the same as 5887. in fact I don’t recall why, since it’s been quite a while. the 5885 is supposed to be ‘easy sand’ too. hmm I’ll have to give it another shot.[/quote]
They are probably both the same, but in different packaging. The 5887 is in the 200ml cartridge that fits in the gun.
Here is a link on plastic repair,
I also use this method as well as the hot staple system
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ws_MONFf-Rc
I like the urethane supply company one with the plastic rods. Seems to work well.
[quote=”NYAuto1″ post=16892]I like the urethane supply company one with the plastic rods. Seems to work well.[/quote]
Thats the one I have used the most
Yeah I definitely need to get a better plastic welder. I got one of those air blow gun ones… What a POS. :blush:
I use the basic soldering gun/wood burner type , but I don’t like rod I usally try to steel a little of the bottom or off another old bumper …. seems to work better with an exact material match.
ps. some plastics just won’t weld … they turn to dust as apposed to melting together nice like some plastics. … as for the staple idea bondo and i seem to agree that melting some low gauge stainless mesh or screen into the back side does the same. :rock
welding rocks but for extra support you can always laminate a piece on the back side for extra security/support.
bottom line is, a new bumper cost the same as a 3-4 hour repair, and ain’t been fixed. :kofee
I’d sure be hesitant to fix a bumper when I could replace it
I have a funny little town – I only paint my own stuff, so I can sit back and speculate on the real body shops around here
They DO NOT quote/bid plastic repairs. replacement at all times. a big enough scuff, replace it. there are 2 shops, both do the same thing. insurance companies hate it, but they’re stuck. they make the car-owners get a quote from both – you can’t just go to the insurance guy to run his paint marker down it. There is none of them in town!
[quote=”Stone” post=16937]I use the basic soldering gun/wood burner type , but I don’t like rod I usally try to steel a little of the bottom or off another old bumper …. seems to work better with an exact material match.
ps. some plastics just won’t weld … they turn to dust as apposed to melting together nice like some plastics. … as for the staple idea bondo and i seem to agree that melting some low gauge stainless mesh or screen into the back side does the same. :rock
welding rocks but for extra support you can always laminate a piece on the back side for extra security/support.
bottom line is, a new bumper cost the same as a 3-4 hour repair, and ain’t been fixed. :kofee[/quote]
Yep. Thermoset plastics cannot be welded, only bonded. Some bumpers have to be repaired due to high cost/lack of availability. But so many are becoming very inexpensive to replace.
I know the kit your on about there are two kinds in the uk. One is just called the hot stapler and the other the Punto Plast. The first is sold by power-tec, i think their site is http://www.power-tec.com and the other one which is the one I have and use at least 2 to 3 times a week can be found on http://www.puntoplast.co.uk
I’m really pleased with mine, it’s very simple to use, provides a really strong repair and is quick. Hope this helps
Hey bondo i used the usc gun. It dose work great. I love that gun
Your right the USC method is good. I still use it if I have holes/gaps to bridge but as a complete crack welding tool the hot stapler is faster and in my opinion stronger.
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