Black Paint and Fine Swirl Mark Issues
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hey Guys,
Been having an ongoing issue when polishing a black pieces. Half of the jobs I do are for customers out of state, which require shipping of the grille or trim piece that I am painting. With that said the customer opens it right out of the box and inspects the fine detail, so I need to be able to remove the light swirl marks I have on my smaller trim pieces. I don’t seem to notice them as much on bumper jobs, maybe I am getting them, maybe I am not, but the fact of the matter is that when I paint mud flaps, or Acura grilles I always see swirls that are a result of my buffing.
For buffing I am using meg 105 with a wool cutting pad, then I use 205 or meg swirl remover with either a white lake county foam pad or a LC wool polishing pad, neither seems to remove the swirls. I then follow with a LC blue pad and some glaze, after all that I still have very faint swirl marks in the direct sun.
What do you all do to remedy this?
Are you using an IPA wipedown between polishing steps? If not there could be some of the megs 105 abrasives still
on the paint when you move to the 205. You need to remove all of the 105 before moving on or else you will end up with micro-fine scratches like you are havin problems with. Hope this helps.Make sure the clear is fully cured. Clean throughly between each step. finish off with an ultra fine glaze and a detailer spray.
I was just using water inbetween, but then I read this post and used some Dx103, I assume it is the same almost as IPA? If not advise please.
At any rate, after I wiped, it took away some shine and releaved some stray swirls, after the swirl remover I just picked up, it looks good under light, but need to see it in the sun tomorrow.
i use the 3M 1 2 3 system mostly, but i have found that being more thorough with your number 1 (rubbing compund) firstly before going to glaze will help to get majority of your swirl marks out. When you go to your number two glaze/cutting compound, i like to try to take as much or all of the glaze off the panel using the polisher rather than wiping with a microfiber until I go to wax. Keeping your microfibers that you use for Compound/Glaze/Wax seperate, and in clean containers will also help big time as those microfibers pick up dirt and garbage that scratch the surface of what you just polished. I do however use the meguiars swirl mark remover after my #2 sometimes, and really like the way it took the remainging swirlies out, shines up really nice too. Clean polishing pads are a must too as the get dirt in them too, which will just keep adding more scratches when your polishing.
its just a grill. WTF are you buffing it for :huh:
because ding, these grilles become a part of the flow of the car when painted, they need to be dibbed when painted so they don’t stand out as being painted. See now how it really just isn’t a grille and becomes an essentialy body panel of the car.
[img]http://www.heeltoeauto.com/upgrade_store/image.php?type=T&id=63722[/img]
[quote=”Nexson” post=25460]because ding, these grilles become a part of the flow of the car when painted, they need to be dibbed when painted so they don’t stand out as being painted. See now how it really just isn’t a grille and becomes an essentialy body panel of the car.
[img]http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/14/138xj.jpg[/img]
[img]http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg122/scaled.php?server=122&filename=09tlnosacaine009iz7.jpg&res=medium[/img][/quote]Ever see the dirt nibs in a factory paint job 😉
damn pictures don’t work.
Yea, i see trash in factory jobs, but I don’t see solvent pop and fisheyes :silly:
[quote=”5LEater” post=25457]i use the 3M 1 2 3 system mostly, but i have found that being more thorough with your number 1 (rubbing compund) firstly before going to glaze will help to get majority of your swirl marks out. When you go to your number two glaze/cutting compound, i like to try to take as much or all of the glaze off the panel using the polisher rather than wiping with a microfiber until I go to wax. Keeping your microfibers that you use for Compound/Glaze/Wax seperate, and in clean containers will also help big time as those microfibers pick up dirt and garbage that scratch the surface of what you just polished. I do however use the meguiars swirl mark remover after my #2 sometimes, and really like the way it took the remainging swirlies out, shines up really nice too. Clean polishing pads are a must too as the get dirt in them too, which will just keep adding more scratches when your polishing.[/quote]These are all good tips I never thought if, seems as though as soon as I wipe it, it leaves a scratch. I always used just one rag. I will wash out the pads and use seperate rags, thanks for the tips!
maybe it has to do with fc710 being so hard, but at any rate i am going to pick up some new foam pads, mine are a bit worn.
Do you bake or infra red these parts your painting, alot of paints need high initial heat to start of the curing process. if your panels are air dried and temp drop belows 20c then your paint may never cure properly hence your issue with your polishing, paint should be cured and cool before being buffed. Solid black base/clear jobs at our work are baked at 80 degrees c for 45 minutes then if nessasary nibbed next day, if i try and nib and polish same day your id have a job getting it perfect. Just an example but obviously differs because of what paint/oven i use and what you use, but same point of it being fully dry to be able to finish it with no issues.
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