Blackout tape…
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For those of you who install blackout tape on doors…
I have installed striping/decals/etc for a long time without any major issues. But when it comes to the blackout tape I have a very poor success rate. I can apply them fine, like any decal, and get all the bubbles out ok. It is when I need to fold the edges over that I run into the issues.
Basically what I do is clean and dry the surface well (On fresh painted cars I make sure to allow it to cure for a few days, as recommended). I test fit the decal ensuring it is correct and not damaged, noting any alignment. When I am ready, I wet down the panel either with glass cleaner (ammonia free) or a soap/water solution. Then I peel the backing off the decal and saturate it as well. I place it on the vehicle and line it up. It is wet, so it moves freely. Using the proper 3M squeegee I start from the centre and work out, removing all the liquid. Once the entire face is flat and good I move onto folding the edges over…this is where the problems stem.
When I start to fold an edge over, often bubbles form on the face at the edge where I am folding, so I try and squeegee them out as I fold the edge. I have tried heating the edge a little with a heat gun before folding (from the back or front, or both). This often helps, but I do still end up with some bubbles. If I do it this way, I get half that are perfect and half that get bubbles and look like $hit.
Of course the remaining bubbles can be poked with a pin or whatever and be made less noticeable, but this is not correct and does not remedy all problems. Sometimes this only creates issues.
I have also noticed that some blackout tape is easier to install than others.
As far as I know, everything I am doing is ok. Am I sloppy/just need a few thousand more to gain the experience, or am I ignorantly missing something? :blush:
Thanks :cheer:
We have been doing them dry at work with a lot more success. I fought the edges doing them wet also. When done dry they fold right over.
Start at one end and only peel back as little of the backing as you can. I keep it lined up by keeping an eye on how much will fold over. Just make sure it is consistent.
you can try a 50/50 water and alchol with a few drops of soap in it. the alcohol helps the water dry out.
but we have the same problem as you. some go on better dry, some wet. and some we have to buy new again.
sometimes, we make ours, by useing sem’s trim black. it’s a nice oem look. as for the edge’s i find it best to wait for the decal to dry completely, then i use my fingers and press and wrap. no water, it’s easier when the edge’s are dry.
[quote=”lild” post=14494]you can try a 50/50 water and alchol with a few drops of soap in it. the alcohol helps the water dry out.
but we have the same problem as you. some go on better dry, some wet. and some we have to buy new again.
sometimes, we make ours, by useing sem’s trim black. it’s a nice oem look. as for the edge’s i find it best to wait for the decal to dry completely, then i use my fingers and press and wrap. no water, it’s easier when the edge’s are dry.[/quote]
I’ve tried with the iso-alcohol and its does speed it up. I have also tried to let the tape dry before folding over the edges (the tough part with that is patience).
The worst thing is they usually pay 0.2 to R&R the tape…and it often takes up tp 0.5 just to remove the tape and old adhesive…let alone installing the new ones.
tell me about it. they are tryin to pay for less and less now adays. it takes more time and thinner just to get the goo off.
that’s why sometimes we use the trim black. that stuff holds up well.
i’m like you i don’t have the paitance to wait. so i put one of my guys on it, or i just go paint a car.
sometimes i have no choice when the bubbles come up, to cut a small slit into the tape, and carefully push the air out of the openings.like ryan at time i find it best to do it dry.
i start at the top, useing a mud spreader with some tape wraped around the edges. pull some of the backing paper down, press the top down pull the decal tight like when you pin stripe, and slowly press it on with the spreader. if i get a bubble i can pull it back up past the bad spot, and repeat the process.damn, this a lot of work for a 2 min. job.
you know the ones i hate the most are the clear ones that go on a toy. tocoma bedside flare.well ta be honest last time i had ta black out a window frame on a gran vitara the owner was coming ta pic it up an i opened my box of tape an it was for the wrong side:blink: :blink: :blink: so i grabbed some tape an paper an rattle canned it with some krylon semigloss black pulled the paper closed the door an honestly ya could not tell the difference go ahead an call me an old hack:p :p but i doubt im even gonna bother ordering a stupid blackout kit anytime soon besides id bet it dont peel like that tape does when it gets 5 yrs old:wak :wak :wak
you “old hack” :whistle:
[quote]The worst thing is they usually pay 0.2 to R&R the tape…and it often takes up tp 0.5 just to remove the tape and old adhesive…let alone installing the new ones[/quote]
I now charge 0.1 or 0.2 for decal adhesive removal i also charge this on moulding adhesive, when a caramac wheel is used.
I used to always struggle a bit with blackout trims.
I seem to have them sussed now.
My method clean area with panel wipe.
Very light spray of soapy water on pillar in question ( not very much at all)
start at the top squeegee out the very little water that is there.
i also had problems with the edges not sticking.
I now use a hot air gun very gentle warm on the flapping edge and it will almost fold itself :blink: round the door.
But i cant stress enough very gentle warm with the hot air gun, if you go too close it will wrinkle the trim up and render it useless.
P.S. Bondo i used that very same method rattle can on thursday nite 👿 little toyota yaris, i thought i had enough blackout tape on my roll, but i didnt lol.
Quick mask up and the job was done, could not tell
If you are going to wet down the panel you are always going to have a problem with the sides because you do not get strong enough adhesion on the edges and it will keep folding up causing you to keep messing with it and get the bubbles you were talking about. The wet method works best if you are installing a decal on just a flat surface like a bedside sticker on a truck or something like that.
With a little bit of practice doing them dry is much easier and when you fold over the sides you won’t have any problem at all.
I think I have a couple scrap ones sitting somewhere, I think I might play with them dry.
I agree Bondo, painting them is better. It looks good, is easier to repair and lasts longer…not to mention saving the ridiculous cost of the garbage.
But being in a dealership, I can’t get away with that.
Well, I did a bunch of blackout tape on a 2010 Civic today. I used a soapy water solution and rather than hosing it on, I put just enough on to make it slick. Put the tape on and used the squegee to remove all bubbles, then let it sit for about 10 minutes and dry. Then I went and put some heat to the edges to get them over. It needed more heat than I would normally do, but it worked well. They turned out great and the boss was very impressed (which is not good, since I will likely have to do many more then).
I had some scrap tape laying around so I practiced with it dry and with different liquids (water, soapy water, glass cleaner and alcohol) beforehand.
Thanks everyone for your input. Hopefully they all turn out this well. :clappy
[quote=”Ben” post=14960]Well, I did a bunch of blackout tape on a 2010 Civic today. I used a soapy water solution and rather than hosing it on, I put just enough on to make it slick. Put the tape on and used the squegee to remove all bubbles, then let it sit for about 10 minutes and dry. Then I went and put some heat to the edges to get them over. It needed more heat than I would normally do, but it worked well. They turned out great and the boss was very impressed (which is not good, since I will likely have to do many more then).
I had some scrap tape laying around so I practiced with it dry and with different liquids (water, soapy water, glass cleaner and alcohol) beforehand.
Thanks everyone for your input. Hopefully they all turn out this well. :clappy[/quote]
yup that’s how ive done them …. don’t get in a hurry , apply with soap/water to the largest flat surface and walk away …. come back later and carefully heat gun your edges/wraps :pcorn:
never would of thought of useing a heat gun for the edges, i always waited for it to dry well.
[quote=”lild” post=14980]never would of thought of useing a heat gun for the edges, i always waited for it to dry well.[/quote]
I found the heat allowed it to stretch a bit and therefore, fold really easy
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