Blending light metalic
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- This topic has 41 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 14 years, 6 months ago by steve kopena.
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- March 12, 2010 at 5:14 am #19998
whats up guys. i need some expert advise from the pros. i did a spot blend on my car on the 1/4 panel and blended in to the rear door. i got some mottle on the blend door and would like to re do it. the door was DA’d with 1000 grit to remove the shine and sprayed wet bed with sherwin blending clear. what are my options here? what id like to do is to re finish just the blend door. i was thinking if im careful enough i can remove just the clear and base that i sprayed to get it back to the scuffed OE clear. if anything ill have a couple burn through but very minor. then id mask the 1/4 panel off completely and just spray the blend door starting well in to the masked 1/4 panel. ill just pretend the masking isnt there. any advise?
i wouldnt recommend trying to fix the door alone, you might fix the mottling but end up with a mismatch and then have to do it all over again. its probably best to sand the quarter and door with 1000 grit and respray/blend it. you mite even find it necessary to now blend them in with the front door. its sucks, i know, u replace a hood and find urself blending into the rear bumper. but b4 u do anything find out why it mottled. toyota silver is a real pain but if u spray it lightly and ull be okay
ouch …. nothin worse than screwing up the blend panel …. When I notice soon enough ., that it ain’t workin , I’ve taken a rag and my reducer for my paint , and wiped it off and started over totally . cause you can’t afford to screw the blend panel.
at this point you may have to spray the whole side :unsure:March 12, 2010 at 7:30 am #20003i’m no blending pro but i do it once in a while and i would reshoot the whole thing. chances are if you tried to fix just the door it would look different.
March 12, 2010 at 7:41 am #20004Whatever idea you have for a quick fix, just go ahead and forget about it. Don’t try and just do the door.
Stones idea isn’t bad. Just take it all back off and start over.
Is your mottle in your blend or the whole blend panel? If it is only in your blend make sure your color matches. Have you done a sprayout? A dark flip on a silver will throw off your blend. Flip is more important on a silver or gold. You can blend alot of stuff but a bad flip will not blend.
March 12, 2010 at 8:04 am #20005its only in the blend at the door. i began to wet sand the door with 1200 and i broke the clear, base, and hit my OE clear un-harmed. im 90 percentm sure i can get everything off i sprayed down to the OE clear in tact. now theoretially, shouldnt i be able to spray the 1/4 panel (complete coverage) and blend on the rear door? should be as if i was starting fresh repair wouldnt it? as in repair dent in 1/4 panel, block, prime, block, seal, DA, scuff/blend prep rear door, shoot 1/4 panel, and blend in to rear door.. ill post pictures in about 15 miniutes. the blend is weird, standing to the right of it, the flop is dark, standing to the left of it, the flop is light, the face is matched decent. the color is definatley blendable, i “fanned out” to do the blend.
March 12, 2010 at 8:15 am #20006you guys wana hear something crazy? last year when i had no access to a booth or any kind of equipment i did a blend on the other opposite side 1/4 panel using a preval areosol can, sherwin paint, no wet bed or any blending additives. blended the rear door. in a appartment garage, using spray max areosol clear. besides the slight seediness on the base that you can only see from 1 foot away, the blend is litterally impossible to spot,.. there is no blend.. can only tell where it is if you look really close to see where the seediness begins. pisses me off like crazy. 10 times better than this nightmare.
March 12, 2010 at 8:35 am #20007just paint not a nightmare :lol1 blending paint takes time an practice a bad sidetone mismacth can be blended but …….. it takes either luck or experiance an we all here can feel your pain 😉
March 12, 2010 at 8:39 am #20008The mottling could come from several factors. It could be spray technique, gun choice, color alt. choice. Some of sherwin base colors are a real pain 👿 Are you a beg. painter? This toyota silver is not the greatest to learn with or any silver for that matter. I would respray the quarter and if you can reblend the door. If not I would go into the front door of fender what ever is the ajacent pannel. Give yourself plenty of room. Also, you should do a low pressure mist coat to make sure the base goes on nice and even and make sure your color match is as close as possible before starting over. Good Luck :silly:
March 12, 2010 at 11:09 am #20010heres some pictures. the camera flash shows a extreme version.. notice how from the left, its waay light, and from the right its waay dark,… and also theres what i believe is called a halo on the door. wat do you guys think? 1 wet bed flashed till dull, 1 light coat from tail lamp area, fanned out right where the door meets. flashed till dull, 1 more light coat extended a bit more, fanned out around the handle area.. ran out of material while drop coating the door. mixed more material to complete the drop coat.
Sata 3000 1.3 mm @ 29 psi inlet for wet bed and base coat
16 psi for drop coat.March 12, 2010 at 11:12 am #20011why arent my pictures loading? well theres about 50 shots of the blend on my profile.. there night shots tho…
AnonymousMarch 12, 2010 at 4:33 pm #20012Here is a direct link to the photo album for ya:
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/jomsocial/sagikun/photos/album?albumid=4
March 12, 2010 at 5:49 pm #20013From what i can see in the pictures, you need to use an alternate with a lighter side tone. If it is sherwin ultra 7000 base coat you can add up to 10% of U7271 flatner to it. That will help lighten the side tone. Check to see if there other alt. available first though.
March 12, 2010 at 10:29 pm #20019ill take more pics today in the sun. i used the variant 1.. clean face, light face, light flop.
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