Blending light metalic
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I have the same problem with light silvers and golds. The face of the color looks perfect but the side tone goes dark.
If you have access to toners you can add a white pearl to lighten the flop a little with out changing the face too much.
Or find a better alt.I never used S.W. brand but in the Spies/Standox line we can mix up to 50 % base blender into out base for the final blend and that sometimes helps alot ,depending on what type of silver toner is in the paint .
Good Luck
I would do the whole side.Its going to be easier to lose the blend around the wheel well of the fender.
[b]Papipab wrote:[/b]
[quote]If you have access to toners you can add a white pearl to lighten the flop a little with out changing the face too much.
[/quote]
That’s good advice! White pearl works very good for that. Seems to not hurt the face to much.
thanks for all the advice. does anyone use the masking when blending? for example if repair is on door and fender is going to be blended. mask off the fender completely, spry the door till hiding, move masking from fender 12 inches, spray coat from door to fender masking, move masking 12 inches, spray again from door to fender, remove masking, drop coat.
I do sometimes but it can give me some problems too. If youre going to do it I would just mask the fender, then spray the door until you get full hiding then unmask the fender completely for the blend. Dont unmask it in stages. 😉
so how did the blend come out? underpaid is right, leave the blend panel unmasked as you blend or youll get definite mask lines. ive learned with solvent paint you can over reduce the blend to help it blend better. maybe you can try that next time.
if one was attempting to blend out his clear (not advisable) one would use the bridge masking technique but for color do as mentioned and mask fender till door has hiding then unmask fender and blend color , clear complete :pcorn:
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]just paint not a nightmare :lol1 blending paint takes time an practice a bad sidetone mismacth can be blended but …….. it takes either luck or experiance an we all here can feel your pain ;)[/quote]a bad side tone can or cant be blended out? and how can you tell if its gona be bad or not before you clear?
also, they say some mottle is un detectable until cleared. what do you guys think of that? i learned that taking before clearing, taking the car outside under direct sunlight shining on the face shows will show quite a bit if not all base application inperfections.
You can tell your side tone is bad by your spray out card that you did before the car was in the booth! 😛
I pretty much know if one is mottled or not before I clear it. That’s just something painters say to make themselves feel better about clearing a car with a little mottleing.:blush: Although when I use to spray solvent if you got on a car with clear before your base was flashed well enough it would mottle.
yeah but for some reason sherwins 500 blending clear was throwing my colors darker than my spray out from the face and flop. especially on the blend panel right where the blend ends. been looking a lot better ever since i stoped using the blender.
and as mentioned here before … the deeper the clear including orientation coat the darker it will go even the unpainted portion … “like the darker/deeper end of a swimming pool seen from the air” :pcorn:
taking the car outside and looking at it from a distance at different angles in the sun helps me for tougher colors. if i cant see a difference on the blend panels with the new paint and the rest of the scuffed area, then it usually looks good when its all cleared. i try to keep the paint a little wet(w/ slower reducer, not pile on the paint) to keep from mottling. but it does take time and patience(something i had to force on myself) :blush: to get it. i just started painting 10 mos. ago and have a sh@!load to learn from you all on this forum. :pcorn:
modeling generally comes from wet and dry spots while spraying the base …. the wetter spots being darker,.. so not too wet, and as even as possible. but not too dry either 😛 :pcorn: B)
has anyone tried finishing off with like 3 drop coats instead of 1?
3 drop coats will get you a good amount of texture. Also if you spray your drop coats to dry and you put 3 on top of each other you will lose adhesion with that much dry spray.
I can’t think of a time where I have needed 3. Maybe 2. If your color is blendable and you have the right gun choice and reducer selection you should be fine with 1.
[b]Born to it[/b] – Are you saying you take the car out into the sun between base and clear? I suppose it would be nice to have that luxury some times, but by the time I’ve messed about doing that the car could be cleared and baking 😉
[b]sagikun wrote:[/b]
[quote]has anyone tried finishing off with like 3 drop coats instead of 1?[/quote]Totally agree with Ryan here. Too many drop coats and you’ll be in orange peel city, if you can even manage to bury that much dry base under the clear.
I know I’m on water based so it’s a whole different ball game to solvent, but you need to be looking into your gun set up, technique, or product if you regularly need more than one drop coat. I’ll occasionally use 2 on a large bonnet (hood) in a troublesome silver, but it’s usually one straight on top of the other, cross coated. The vast majority of the time, one is more than enough.
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