“Blending” out cleared panels.
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The shop owner I work for does something and I was wondering if anyone else here did it or heard of it, or thinks it’s retarded. Say we’re blending a couple of panels. He will do the blend then his first coat of clear will basically only cover where he based then he takes his second coat and clears the entire panels.
His reasoning, the extra clear can make colors look different. If you put 2 coats of clear over 2 coats of OEM clear that will be 4 coats in some spots and that amount of clear can potentially adjust the color slightly.
What do you guys think?
heard of it ya good idea ya do i do it no:blush: :blush: :blush:
It’s a good idea. Two full coats of clear can make the panel you painted darker. Here’s the best analogy for this situation. If you have ever flown in a plane and looked out the window while flying over land and looked at a swimming pool. The deep end is darker than the shallow. The pool isn’t painted darker on one end nor is the water a different color in parts of a pool. What your seeing is how long it takes the sunlight to reflect the color on the bottom of the pool back at you. With more clear it takes longer for the light to reflect therefore giving a darkening effect.
Ya thats a good idea provided he’s not using a transparent base as an orientation coat. If he is spraying a transparent toner first then it requires 2 full coats, otherwise its a great way to spray!
hmmmm their ya go jimmo making me think again but if the toner is transparent whats the second coat got to protect:whistle: :whistle:
the clear toner can fade/chalk like basecoat, it gets broken down by UV rays too.
[b]natypes wrote:[/b]
[quote]
His reasoning, the extra clear can make colors look different. If you put 2 coats of clear over 2 coats of OEM clear that will be 4 coats in some spots and that amount of clear can potentially adjust the color slightly.What do you guys think?[/quote]
that’s exactly how I do it, and for that very same reason. 😉
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]It’s a good idea. Two full coats of clear can make the panel you painted darker. Here’s the best analogy for this situation. If you have ever flown in a plane and looked out the window while flying over land and looked at a swimming pool. The deep end is darker than the shallow. The pool isn’t painted darker on one end nor is the water a different color in parts of a pool. What your seeing is how long it takes the sunlight to reflect the color on the bottom of the pool back at you. With more clear it takes longer for the light to reflect therefore giving a darkening effect.[/quote]That’s the best explanation I ever heard, great job!!!!
I will be useing that as an example myself now. thanks. :cheer:Thanks guys. He explains it to me the exact same way with the swimming pool analogy. I questioned this ONLY because a swimming pool has a much larger depth difference than 2 measly coats of clear. I can see the light reflection difference of a few feet, but wasn’t so sure I could on clear.
And I did observe a color difference as well, but I just chalked it up to the other panels being faded.
Damn Ryan.. that was a perfect analogy bro.. I dig it
Many of the lower end, budget/fleet clears, have a slight amber cast to them. And with multiple coats,
this can/does make a difference as well. Another reason why i like SPI Euro clear; no amber cast!!!Yes I am going to start doing this too,I just got back from the Sikkens tarining center in Vancouver for the waterborne training.They recomend blending the same way,even over the wet bed orientation coat.We cleaned up and painted our mixing room today and made the switch.We will be using it on monday.
I don’t know if water is different or what in regards to the orientation coat. The BASF instructor told us if you use their clear basecoat over your panels you need to apply to full coats, if you used an over-reduced clear then you don’t need to. This was applicable to RM products, BC100 in particular. Either way they supported the idea of just stopping a bit shy of your edge on the first coat. In the case you had a large panel with base say only in the middle, they’d suggest maybe not using the BC100 & your first coat of clear would just go over your small area of basecoat.
What you are saying jimmo makes sense,it is interesting how paint companies have a different recomendation for blending.I used to use rm and thats how I did my blends until now.I found the autowave very user friendly and did not experience any negatives like I heard about the product.Coverage is better than autobase + even if you don’t use a tinted sealer.We sprayed the new caddy color white diamond 3 stage pearl over a dark blue.The white foundation coat covered the dark blue in 2 med coats. I’m not brand loyal by any means but I think the autowave will work great for us.
I also do exactly the same, for the reasons given.
In fact, when I was on NEXA (ex ICI) 6690 clear, they actually recommended an even more extreme method for clearing blend panels, particularly on silver/ high metallic colours:
First coat of clear should be applied to within 6″ of the end of the blend panel, second coat should go to 4″ from the end, then the remaining ‘strip’ should be covered with a 50/50 mix of clear and 1601 blending thinner. That way the end of the panel adjacent to the untouched original paintwork would only have a very thin layer of extra clear on it, reducing the chances of darkening to a minimum.
I generally don’t go to that extreme myself, but I reduce the thickness of the original clear by giving it a good sand with a 1200 disc. That way, one extra coat over it makes an undetectable difference 🙂
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