Blending solid 2k color ?
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Ive done a fair few blend jobs with metallic base and clear. but am unsure of the correct technique for blending a spot repair using a solid 2k color, would you just blend the repair as if you were painting in base, and then give the panel a coat of clear as well just to tie it all in, or is there an easier way without clearing the panel.
Theres a couple of ways you could do it, I,m sure someone with more knowledge and experience than me may offer some advice on top of what I,m about to tell you.
Do the repair as you would, decide where you want new paint to end and sand around this area with 1500 grit. Spray just into the 1500 scratches with the paint and then spray fadeout thinner over your paint edge. buff the panel when the paint has cured. If you do it this way it helps if the colour is spot on to the original paint.Or you could get the colour in solid base coat. Flick in the colour as you would a metalic, spray clear past the edge of the colour and polish out the edge of the clear rather than the colour.
Hope this helps, like I said some else may chime in and offer more/better advice, i’m still a learner.
Cool, cheers for that.
Iv’e not used fade out thinners before, do they actually work ?
The last time i spot repaired a solid colour, i just blended it into the panel and then 1500 it where the overspray line was, but you could still see the edge in certain lights.what are you painting?
I’ve had good results useing fadeout thinner on small repairs, I know someone that doesnt use it at all and I know someone that uses normal 2k thinner, but I have yet to keep experiment with different things. What I have found is that if you are going to sand the edge is to make sure that the paint has fully cured, especially with clear as I’ve had it leave a white edge that I can’t get rid of. I sometimes found spot repairs come out well if I don’t sand the paint edge, just buff it when cured, as long as there is’nt a thick layer of paint and you get fadeout thinner on it straight away. I use a seperate paint with fadeout thinner in it and spray the edge straight away. I find this better than using an aerosol thinner.
If you use base and clear it should be easier to polish the clear edge than a colour edge as your nnot actually touching the blend. Like I said though I’m still a learner.Just doing a couple of dents on the bottom half of my Vw T4 camper, it’s white which should be a bit more forgiving.
A standard single stage blend is prepped as normal over the repair area (finished with 500, 600 or whatever suits your fancy). Then the area around there is sanded finer, say 1000 grit, then 1500. You will cover with paint up to the 1000 grit, the blender will go over the 1500 grit. You do not need to cover the entire 1500 grit area.
The entire panel (if it is a small panel) or a large area around it should be lightly abraded. Trizac 3000 works well, so does 2500, or you can rub it with a coarse cutting compound by hand to open it up.
The keys are to cover the repair area, each coat going further than the last, making sure not to go past your prepped area. Your first coat should be sprayed as normal. You may add the appropriate blender to the subsequant coats in any ratio that works for you. Be careful as the viscosity will be changed. At the end you may melt in the blend with pure blending solvent.
After it has dried well (over night) it can be polished. If the blend is good, you may be able to run the polisher over the area just with some compound. IF the repair is ok, you may need to lightly wet sand it a bit first. DO NOT sand too much, or polish too much as this will remove too much material and will leave a noticeable blend. If the blend is not ok, you may be better off redoing it, rather than spending too much effort polishing.
THere are several ways to go about this…hope this method can help you find a way that will work.
All good tips !
Cheers guys. :clappy
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