blending water
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I am spraying water Sikkens, and I am still not happy with the way some of the silvers blend. I have not had any re dos, but I have yet to see too many perfect invisible blends.All the reps have been out and said that the blends look good. They are acceptable at best in my oppinion. With solvent I could use slow reducer, stagger the blend or lower the air pressure.And never see the blends. I am thinking of getting a mini jet with a 1.4 for better control on smaller panel blends. Everyone says water blends better.I have had some that were easyier too. I think Its something simple, probably a bad habit still in me from solvent. I am considered a seasoned painter, and help out other shops when they have problems(my boss does not care for that) but it keeps my name out there.The fade out on the paper looks good, no dry edges or halos on the panel, just not dissappearing like it used to.I really look forward to painting the silver jobs, almost 2-3 of the 5, I paint a day are silver, just to get this figuered out. Going to school for 2 days in july, always looking to pic up on something new. I am not affraid to say, I dont know today. Thats what 25 yrs and getting old does to a painter. I became less cocky and willing to understand that on any given day, I will learn something new.Its funny that the reps tell me they look great, when I can see the transition. LOTS TO LEARN STILL…for me
What % are you reducing your color?
Don’t flick your wrist.
You can cut your silver with some of your blender mix and re control coat your blend
have you tried giving the panels a coat of clear binder first before blend
This give a far better laydown on silvers and golds I use Lesonal with is made by Akzo and this is a recommended procedure on very light metallic and pearl colours.
The tinter in question on Lesonal is 02 not sure what it would be on Sikkens, should be easy enough just be the clear binder that goes in most colour mixes.
This does work i have done this many times, you dont have to chase the blend just seems to laydown a lot better.
As above, a coat of clear binder will help, but once you’ve got the hang of water you should only need that for really bad colours.
One of waters biggest advantages can also be one of it’s downfalls – better covering power than most solvents. I’m sure we’ve all done it, you get a pretty transparent colour and it almost blends itself out, as some of the original colour still grins through the new. With a base that’ll cover in one good coat you clearly won’t get that. I’ve taken to reducing the fluid output on my gun when I know there’s a tricky blend to do. Just winding the fluid knob in half a turn really helps me out.
And as Ryan says, don’t flick your wrist like you would with solvent. I’m sure we all have our own ways of doing it, and it’s hard to describe, but I sort of arc my arm from my shoulder, so that I’m pulling away from the panel as I reach the edges of the blend.
Stick with it. Once you’ve cracked water you’ll never want to go back 🙂
we have the toner 666 conector that gets reduced 20% with WB
Need more info,what kind of gun and tip size are you using,what air pressure do you use for blends/drop coat,what is your distance from the panel when doing your drop coat/blend?Are you spraying it wet or dry?what % are you reducing your metallics/pearls?Autowave is similar to solvent that you can add more activator to make it blend easier(up to 50%).I can blend in the middle of a panel and it is perfect.The 2 day autowave course made a huge difference.I am also an old school painter with 25 years experience,if I can make it work flawlessly so can you 😉
i have this problem with silver mottle that can only be seen before the sun goes down. around 5 to 6 pm. when the sun is shining directly at the side panel thats been painted. but when the sun is sky high its flawless. any ideas?
I am signed up for the 2 day in july. Sata 3000, 1.4 tip, Metallics start at 30% depending on humidity conditions.I have the Autowave Best Practices Pocket Guide,Aug,2009. I follow its advise and tips. Can you stay in the door of a Small car, VW. With a softball sized primer spot in the middle? I would say there is about 10 inches on each side to blend and not take color to the edge, with the tougher colors, silver,golds. Thats why I was thinking about getting a sata mini jet? I tend to lower the air and tighten the pattern, on those repairs when there is not much room to blend. With solvent, I would use slow reducer and stagger the blend and it would look good and your eye would never pic up the blend. Picking the right color varient is key.With the water, the color is spot on, and I just dont have the “know how” to make it dissappear…….YET ! I am looking forward to the 2day. What area are you in Jason? I am in Bucks County, Pa. My Sikkens rep was wondering. :pcorn:
I’m not Jayson, but…
I am starting with 40% reducer from the get go since the weather warmed up. Me and Jayson both use the 1.4HC sata. Dont know if the HC is much different but I am having very good luck with blending. I tend to get about 15 inches back and use 22-23 psi for my control coat. I move slow. It shouldnt look wet but it the surrounding masking paper should be wet if you put your finger in it.
One thing that might help is make sure your second coat is not super wet. It should be about 50-60%. I try and step my color out some with my second coat and get my blend looking good and the mottle out. That way my control coat is easier.
10 inches sounds like a little tough to blend. I have found water needs more room because of the control coat. The mini jet would help this greatly. I usually just turn the fan in and drop the pressure. If the color was close I could squeeze that blend, but it wouldnt leave any room for error.
Also if I’m trying to keep the spot small I wont put my first coat on as wet. That way I am not having to straighten anything out metallic wise with my second and 3rd coat.
BTW I shot Dupont water for awhile and once we went to Autowave it took me a little bit to get all my little quirks worked out. The 50/50 coat mixed with blender in the end helps with the ones I cant get to go away.
I have been on Autowave for 6 months now.
B) [b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]BTW I shot Dupont water for awhile and once we went to Autowave it took me a little bit to get all my little quirks worked out. The 50/50 coat mixed with blender in the end helps with the ones I cant get to go away.I have been on Autowave for 6 months now.[/quote]Thanks for the advice,this really keeps me plugged into painting water. It is easy to get pissed, but I would rather stay calm and just get the hang of this stuff. I get paid by the hr.and they dont hassle me, but I miss pumping out the cars.Nothing feels better than getting everything done right and making good time, ya know :hunt
Hi Steve,I am in Lethbridge Alberta Canada,a long way from where you are 😛 Anyway Ryan is pretty sharp and has offered you good advice.On difficult colors after you spray on you reduced 666 mixture immediately put on your first coat of color,this will help everything melt in,now let everything flash before your second coat.To answer your question about in the middle of the door yes.I am Leary of using a mini jet,they can change the color a bit.I spray my gun at 27-30psi for color coats and drop down to 22-24psi for control coat.If I am doing a small blend I will keep the pressure the same and just feather the trigger instead of a full pull for a color coats,then do a regular drop coat and fade out but no wrist flip.Control coats/blend need to be at least 12″-16″(I’m about 14-16″) and with autowave the wetter the better.I have used sikkens off and on since 1987 and every day for the last 8 and a half years.We did the 2 day course then changed to autowave,very seamless change but it took a month or so to get in the groove.That was Easter 2009 so almost a year and a half we have been spraying it.The 2 day course will do wonders for you,it will make it easy for you.I went to the training center in Vancouver.Any questions just shoot me a pm.
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