Blocking – How to and when

Home / Forums / Main Forum / Auto Body Repair / Blocking – How to and when

Viewing 7 posts - 16 through 22 (of 22 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • July 30, 2011 at 3:51 am #31962

    There great tools, for removing large amounts of filler and keeping the panel flat. Since we don’t have photos it is hard to tell or say what actually caused the waves. He could have sanded the car by hand and left finger grooves in it I don’t think he told us his process.

    The main point here is small waves, which could be in the body filler, primer, or metal. These can be fixed in small enough with 3 good coats of high build primer, and a good blocking. The theory here is, (I’m using inches for simple math) you have a panel that is wavy, the deepest depression is 1/4 inch. So each coat of primer is 1/8 inch thick, and 3 coats gives you a heavy 3/8 inch built up from the deepest depression. It is now a high spot that can be sanded out.

    Of course I would not build 1/4 inch of primer unless someone asked, and paid me too. And I would get :stoned first :).

    The best thing to do is use a guide coat, and if your new to the whole sanding thing, it is a must have. Powder or can, it’s a great visual aid.

    August 2, 2011 at 7:49 am #32013

    [quote=”bodymanhelper” post=21478]Hi guys

    Im just an apprentice and the guy who is teach me told me never to use a D.A. on large panels to cut the filler because he said that you can make waves. :unsure:[/quote]

    I dont know about that, sure if you arent great with the machine maybe dont use a DA. But I see nothing wrong with using a DA or Orbital to take the bulk of your filler off the panel your working on, while also making your panel straight, and then blocking further if need be. If you have decent skill and experience I wouldnt see why you wouldnt be able to finish your work straight with a DA or orbital.( there are of course areas on a vehicle where you would need to use a block to be able to shape the more rigid parts of the vehicle) the important part is being able to feel your work and sanding accordingly based on what you are feeling (generally) :rock

    September 15, 2011 at 12:03 am #32890

    you can get a oversized hood with heavy hail damage perfectly straight using just a d.a.?

    September 15, 2011 at 10:06 pm #32929

    [quote=”sagikun” post=22394]you can get a oversized hood with heavy hail damage perfectly straight using just a d.a.?[/quote]

    What is an oversized hood?…do you use those when the fender gaps are too wide?…can you get an undersized hood for those tight gaps? 😛

    September 16, 2011 at 4:22 am #32935

    [quote=”Charlie” post=22432][quote=”sagikun” post=22394]you can get a oversized hood with heavy hail damage perfectly straight using just a d.a.?[/quote]

    What is an oversized hood?…do you use those when the fender gaps are too wide?…can you get an undersized hood for those tight gaps? :P[/quote]
    :rofl :rofl :clappy

    September 16, 2011 at 5:51 am #32936

    oversizesls hood. a bigger and flatter than the average hood.. better ?

    September 16, 2011 at 6:03 am #32937

    [quote=”sagikun” post=22439]oversizesls hood. a bigger and flatter than the average hood.. better ?[/quote]

    Well not really…if the damn thing is oversizzled, it’s probably warped and wont fit worth a shit…. :deadhorse :stoned

Viewing 7 posts - 16 through 22 (of 22 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.