bloody black bits GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
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Guys
heres one for you, how many of you struggle to get “totally” clean finishes on light Mettalics such as Silvers/whites etc, its driving me mad, i dont mean the small bits of dust that easily flat and polish out and seem invisible, i mean the bits that are slightly off colour so look dark under the lacquer they are small and 9/10 times i can get away with it but its not right!, i dont get them all the time but seems to be more often than ever, i cant understand it, my guns are thoroughly cleaned inside out my booth house keeping is good, i wet the floor, i wear painters whites and put the hood up i also wear gloves.. im almost getting to the stage of feeling not very confident, its a bloody nightmare, i do quite high end cars where the finish needs to be as flawless as possible. pleeeeeeeeeeeease help or give me some suggestions i’ll be forever in your debt :cheers
Getting rid of dust is a life long battle for all painters. Its impossibe to get a flawless job every time but there are some ways to keep it to a minimal. Prep for paint is as important as painting. painting in a booth with filtered air flow , blowing the vehicle of throughly before you mask , final wipe everything including jambs with a mixture of soap and water throughly to nutralize the static charge in the panel, claen and dry air to spray with, double straining the base and clear before you spray, tack everything throughly 2 or 3 times including paper and plastic after everything is settled,clean the hose and dont drag it around and drop it on the floor while painting,wear a paint suit, absolutly no one but yourself inside the booth and around the car before paint, denib base coat, after clear coat dont stand around looking at it and learn to enjoy cutting and buffing :p
We get the occasional problem. I usually just go over the panel really good right before I clear it, tacking or denibbing the base if necessary. Then I know I am not clearing over anything like that.
I would think a few pieces of crap would be a good thing. Last 2 white F-150s I had in the shop both had large chunks of crap in the factory paint. So if you’re getting them, then you are matching the factory job well…lol
sometimes i swear its a mind over matter or…..black bits thing ever notice if ya dont give a crap ya never get em :wak
[quote=”bondomerchant” post=25788]sometimes i swear its a mind over matter or…..black bits thing ever notice if ya dont give a crap ya never get em :wak[/quote]
Agreed 😆
For some jobs I’ll really take my time and do everything by the book, but they often come out with more bits in them than the ones where I just throw the paint on in between sanding the filler down on another job outside! :rofl
white specs in black paint and black specs in white paint. If I still have them after the second time, they are staying the paint, who knows where they come from, but they come from somewhere. I think this might be the reason why some whites are still single stage from factory?
I got this when i mixed white paint codes little specs of black or blue from the tint would go on to the panel when i was using paint strainers and normal plastic cups . Changed to the pps system and i have not had this problem since.
I have been dealing with this same issue, especially silvers, I seem to get little clumps, you can get it flat but you will still see it under the clear, most of the time you will never see it outside but it still sucks not knowing where it comes from. I am thinking that it might be from just stirring my sealer instead of throwing it on the shaker like my paint. For whites when I get that irritating black speck in an area that will really be noticed I will dust a little base on top of it and then put some more clear on it to give me something to buff. This can bite you in the rear if your base eats into your clear. I have tried pulling trash out with tape before but it seems like it makes more of a mess than what it fixes. I do keep a pair of tweezers handy, I sharpen up the tip so its not so large and sometimes that works for me, as long as I havent had to much coffee that day.
Chuck
click on this link below and scroll down to Code: W38110
Paint Picker Needle Set, although this doesnt help with the tiny small particles etc that seem to occasionally show under the clear, it does help if you have something land in it like a fly, midget etc, the number of times this has saved me is unreal, its like a tiny needle with small fibres on the end that cling to whatever and pull it out,,brillant product and well worth keeping in your booth!http://www.power-tec.co.uk/showcat.asp?cat=313&page=2
how often are you changing out your hose? i change mine out every year i was told every six months but i dont paint that often. if you are heating your booth to 140plus temps that can really deteriorate a hose quickly
I know exactly what you mean!
How anal are you on the pre-clean of the vehicle before it enters the shop? We pre-wash and high pressure clean the body, shuts, backsides of all doors/boots, wheel arches and undersides of the vehicle before we start any work.
You can put a heavy chain over the diff and let it sit on the floor. This will help ground out the vehicle to minimise static charge. I also replace the exhaust filter too. How clean are your inlet filters? Do you wet the floor when clearing?
When painting whites and silvers, I ALWAYS use a brand new disposable spray suit (Tyvek) for the job. I also tape my gloves off at the suit, rub my eyebrows, blow my face, body and respirator off several times, plus I always wear the hood in the suit. Use separate guns for base and clear, double strain all paint materials. make sure you are well nourished before you start a job like this. I know it sounds silly, but if you are fatigued/tired, it’s easy to make stupid mistakes/oversights that you’ll regret later (ie. forgetting to strain the paint or even tack off the job). Try to minimise your movements in and out of the booth and always keep the booth door closed. Helps if the other guys in the shop aren’t sanding and creating dust while you’re painting.
With solid whites, temperature permitting, you can use a fast reducer in the base which will limit the amount of ‘open time’ in the base. Don’t do this with a silver though!
If your booth has a concrete floor, you can tape off the underside of the car. This helps a lot! See an example of a car we painted below that came out very clean (BTW, the door looks very yellow but that’s just the digital camera):
[IMG]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n19/simon-richards/be036d0a.jpg[/IMG]
The finished result:
[IMG]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n19/simon-richards/79acd313.jpg[/IMG]
Many times it is dirty compressed air. I recommend the three stage SATA filter and a fresh air approved spray hose. You should change your hose every three months including the coupler and keep the spray end of your hose off the dirty floor.
Keep your booth balanced properly (slightly positive), and change the filters regularly.
If you are using a solvent borne basecoat, use a slower reducer so there is less dry overspray and tack between coats. For water borne base, use more water for the same reason.
With all that after putting on base or pearl give the car a proper look over and if necessary scuff/remove the debris and blend on more base and pearl if necessary , let flash and tack off properly before applying clear a little patience goes a long way .
If there is anything that can get me rattled when pulling the trigger is DIRT !! You can get clean jobs and soon as you get a few nibs in the clear , everyone has to put their 2cents in, and get me outta my groove!! I recently lowered the ceiling fan speed , to eliminate some dirt in my base. I do everything that everyone else does to prevent dirt, this just happens to be the latest idea, as to eliminate anything in my base. With the dry air temps outside and a little heat, the waterbourne does dry pretty quick at 30 % reduced and lays down the way its supposed to. The detailer CRY’s anytime he has to rub anything..
I make sure I have quality tack cloths, 125 micron strainers, some type of disposable cup system, and a bit of luck.
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