bloody black bits GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
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Does your paint happen to use powder pearls? I used a couple of systems using powder and always got chunks. First one was DBU back in the early 90s when they had the pearl paste in what looked like baby food jars. The last one was chroma premier in 95ish. Since then, nothing but liquid pearls. I figure if it doesn’t have liquid pearls, it isn’t a high end product.
[quote=”steve k” post=25952]If there is anything that can get me rattled when pulling the trigger is DIRT !! You can get clean jobs and soon as you get a few nibs in the clear , everyone has to put their 2cents in, and get me outta my groove!! I recently lowered the ceiling fan speed , to eliminate some dirt in my base. I do everything that everyone else does to prevent dirt, this just happens to be the latest idea, as to eliminate anything in my base. With the dry air temps outside and a little heat, the waterbourne does dry pretty quick at 30 % reduced and lays down the way its supposed to. The detailer CRY’s anytime he has to rub anything..[/quote]
not sure which system your useing, but i use enviro, i goten away from useing any thing to blow the water dry, i find that it will dry on it’s own just as fast at dbc, or faster. that has been my best bet to keeping trash out, and i use some dx103 sometimes. but i still get some crude in it. i can have good days and bad.Are you spraying conventional solvent borne base or waterborne? With waterborne, I have found that stirring thoroughly before reducing has virtually eliminated the small colored specks that would occasionally show up when applying white. Also, I strain the paint (125 micron for waterborne) into the PPS cup, which also has a 125 strainer integrated, so I’m basically double straining. I think that what may happen is that if the paint is reduced before stirring/shaking, the reducer may cause some paint particles to micro-encapsulate and not become homogenized within the mixture. You may try stirring/shaking well before reducing, if you are not already doing so. Good luck!
Paintwerks…
I assume that this is a downdraft booth. How are you achieving proper airflow around the vehicle when you tape your plastic to the floor, completely sealing the part of the pit that is underneath?
[quote=”Paintwerks” post=25870]
When painting whites and silvers, I ALWAYS use a brand new disposable spray suit (Tyvek) for the job.[/quote]
Wow! I’d be out of a job if I did that. That’s at least half a dozen suits a day for me 😆
To be honest I very rarly wear a suit at all. I had my 2 year old DeBeer one on the other day as I was doing a larger than normal job (full paint bar the roof on a Sovereign Silver Astra), but with our normal stuff (between 1 and 6 panels) I don’t bother. I know I should, but I just don’t like em.
Didn’t get any less crap than normal in the Astra either. A few nibs here and there, but the suit didn’t make any difference except to make me sweat like a pig :rofl
I dont like em either, i sweat like a Hen hauling wood 😛
I sweat pretty good in the paint suit too, but I always wear it. The fresh air hood helps with that a bit too though
[quote=”Ben” post=26051]I sweat pretty good in the paint suite too, but I always wear it. The fresh air hood helps with that a bit too though[/quote
thats cause you dont wear clothes inside your suit :unsure: :unsure: :unsure:
[quote=”smooth” post=26061][quote=”Ben” post=26051]I sweat pretty good in the paint suite too, but I always wear it. The fresh air hood helps with that a bit too though[/quote
thats cause you dont wear clothes inside your suit :unsure: :unsure: :unsure:[/quote]
Thats just what I tell Bondo so he sleeps better at night :rofl
Tiny black particles that show in light colors could be coming from the air hose. after a period of time the inside of the air hose starts to break down and the particles could end up on the car. As stated by another post, air hoses should be changed every 6 monthes to a year, depending on usage.
Another piece of equipment to check is if you have a dessicant dryer and the beads needs to be changed. Some feel drying the beads and re-using them works, but I have seen that after they are dried and re-used, they can break down to micro particles and end up in the paint also.Yep…black bits are from the air line….but…..Some say use a cheap hose an wait years. or they have never seen the black bits?Which in return i would say that they are blind or don’t care. Ruber only last so long and can not get pounded with heat . it breaks down gets brittle and comes apart. So if your not changing your hose and using a high solids clear then most of the time they will just get covered with enough clear and you won’t see them…If you don’t buff your on stuff then you will never see it. No detailer is gonna complain because he dosnt want his head bit off.
[quote=”polymer_pro” post=26040]Paintwerks…
I assume that this is a downdraft booth. How are you achieving proper airflow around the vehicle when you tape your plastic to the floor, completely sealing the part of the pit that is underneath?[/quote]
Sorry for the delay in reply.
Yes, it is a downdraft booth. The inbound air is fully distributed from all areas of the ceiling (as filters cover the whole 7m x 4.2m ceiling), and then the exit filter on one side of the booth is approx. 5 metres long x 50cm.
We’ve never had any issues with adequate airflow. And this particular job was very, very clean with only a few dirt particles that we cut out. All that remained were two pinprick-sized bits of black dirt that complemented the other pinprick bits of dirt in the factory finish on the rest of the car! The owner was stoked with the result. He said he couldn’t distinguish it from brand new.
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Probably air line hose, but another thing that leaves black dots in waterbourne is spraying with too high of pressure, it can cause salt and pepper effect, but no a less extreme case it just shows up as black or light dots
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