Blotchy, stripped and mottled silver

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  • September 9, 2012 at 6:54 pm #38237

    I know this is a subject that has probably been addressed a thousand times but I really would appreciate some specific advice. I recently painted the top half of an 06 honda silver. The painted areas came out streaked, blotchy and mottled. I was using Nason base, a generic reducer and a perfectly working Iwata LV 400. I applied several wet coats and backed offed with a final dusting but ended up with dark spots, blotching and streaks. I spoke with a paint store rep and he says I may have been using a reducer that allowed the paint to dry too quickly. Please advise of any solutions such as gun pressure, technique, etc. thanks

    September 9, 2012 at 8:03 pm #38238

    lot of variables can cause metallic colors to look blotchy but i would begin with using the correct reducer made for the paint brand your using. your paint rep might be right, but personally i find silvers and golds to be sprayed with light passes, meaning somewhat drier, and a little bit higher pressure helps orient the metallic better and give a uniform look.

    the iwata is also not my fav gun for base. if u have or can get a tekna with a 7e7 cap youll love that more. anyways, keep the distance of the gun uniform and not too close and you can pull it off.

    September 9, 2012 at 8:33 pm #38239

    You had about everything going against you possible to be honest. Nason base is not the easiest to spray as it is lower quality. The generic reducer could have gave you even more problems. Typically cheaper solvents are faster. That gun with the silver aircap typically struggles with basecoats more so than others.

    If possible use a higher end basecoat. They are usually cheaper in the long run.

    Use one step slower reducer than the temp range calls for.

    Be careful of spraying to light of coats. If you start getting a dry surface it will always look bad.

    Make sure you use 75% overlap and spray 90 degrees to the surface.

    Sometimes a drop coat put on a damp surface can help when struggling

    September 10, 2012 at 4:39 am #38240

    These guys have some good points.

    The Nason reducer is super cheap, no reason not to use it. Also, the Nason base requires a specific hardener too, this is NOT optional, did you use that in the mix? I have sprayed a fair bit of Nason, and it can be tricky with metallics, but is definitely doable. Mix and spray exactly as the tech sheet says, and the product will work well.

    Alternately, spend the money for a better product as [b]some[/b] better paints are more user friendly. I also suggest practicing first. It is never a good idea to try out something new on a car unless you are certain of it. Spray a test panel or whatever you have on hand and get a feel for it.

    September 10, 2012 at 6:26 am #38244

    [quote=”Ben” post=27376]These guys have some good points.

    Also, the Nason base requires a specific hardener too, this is NOT optional

    Ben you’ll b surprised how many “painters” here in South Florida don’t even know about the hardener. You are so right!!!

    September 10, 2012 at 7:15 am #38247

    [quote=”chumpi” post=27378][quote=”Ben” post=27376]These guys have some good points.

    Also, the Nason base requires a specific hardener too, this is NOT optional

    Ben you’ll b surprised how many “painters” here in South Florida don’t even know about the hardener. You are so right!!![/quote]

    Its all in the tech sheet. Nason base is a little different chemically than most solvent base (where the hardener is optional).

    I wouldn’t brush latex house paint on a rotting barn without at least reading the can…let alone spraying a car without knowing how to use the paint.

    September 12, 2012 at 7:26 pm #38266

    Sorry I missed this one from the beginning. I agree with all that was mentioned here. Nason base, although, definitely the lower end of the DuPont line, can be used successfully for most applications, but, as was stated earlier, needs to be used with it’s Nason counterparts. As Ben and chumpi pointed out, using the Nason specific hardner is NOT an option and it’s pricing is minimal, so no reason to not use it.

    We use Nason base coat for many of our lower end paint jobs here at LDJ and have had a lot of success using the product. It’s a great way to keep the price down for the customer that is really looking for the “lowest possible” pricing when doing a re-paint. Although, the coverage is not near as good as some of the better bases, if you are doing a re-paint and covering the same color, it works well.

    When spraying ANY metallic base, ie. gold, silver, make sure you let the paint completely flash between coats. If you try to spray over still wet base, tiger striping is inevitable and it won’t matter what base you’re using. Metallic colors are harder to get used to and as Ben mentioned, practice on whatever you can get your hands on when using something you’re not used to. It will save you money in the long run.

    As Ben mentioned, reading the tech sheet for ANY paint you’re not familiar with is key to making sure you don’t have any problems. Make sure to use Nason base with it’s Nason counterparts and you shouldn’t have any of the problems you experienced.

    September 14, 2012 at 5:30 am #38284

    I learned the hard way my LV400 is not a good gun for light metallics…..

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