Body filler question

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  • September 30, 2013 at 10:35 pm #44723

    Hey guys I’m doing my first project this week and I’m goin to be filling a dent about 6-7 inches long. I was wondering if I can use a 6 inch hand sander or if I should get a long sander to make sure it is sanded fully flat. Also what paper to start with and to finish with before primer. Thanks

    October 1, 2013 at 1:07 am #44725

    You can use what ever sander you feel comfortable with, 6 inch would do it for me. I like to sand back and forth and a cross hatch pattern.
    Sand grits will depend on the filler your going to use, some you have to go as coarse as 40 :S and some of the better fillers you can start with 80. just remember Grits usually go up by at least 100 increments to be safe. Most 2k urethanes like to be finished in 320, if thats what your using, best check the TDS for the primer.

    October 1, 2013 at 2:16 am #44726

    Yeah I just want to make sure I’m going to be able to get the dent flat across. You know being that it’s fairly long I don’t want to have a lumpy fill.

    October 1, 2013 at 2:46 am #44727

    Do you have much experience with Body filler?

    October 1, 2013 at 3:42 am #44728

    Yeah I’ve done a couple of small jobs but nothing to get a perfect finish like this project. I just don’t want to sand over this dent and have it be wavy or lumpy.

    October 1, 2013 at 3:52 am #44729

    Personally i rub my hand across the dent to feel if its straight but another procedure would be to use a guide coat, this will show your highs and lows. If you dont have much experience priming 2 times blocking in between coats will help get it flat.

    October 1, 2013 at 4:39 am #44730

    What do you mean by priming 2 times?

    October 1, 2013 at 4:46 am #44731

    Prime, let dry, block sand, re-prime, block sand and paint!

    October 1, 2013 at 11:18 am #44739

    most modern bodywork is very thin and will flex whilst blocking filler so use an easy sanding product such as Upol Fantastik which will then allow you to use far less weight on your block along with finer grades of paper ,personaly i start with P80 ,i then guide and go to 180 after which i finish with 240 on a DA then prime ,i often use a soft interface with the 240 in order to preserve the shape or flatness of my original work ,again i guidcoat first to ensure i dont remove anything other than the heavier scratch

    for primer i block with 240 dry reguide and remove the 240 scratch with 320 on a DA with either a soft pad and or an interface depending on shape etc

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