booth heat effecting overall finish?
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hi guys,
last week i had a car that needed a whole side to be painted in metallic blue.done the usual repairs, primer etc..
layed the base-coat very well after last coat of base i let it flash of for 10 minutes.
on 2nd coat of clear i noticed that the burner for the booth failed and was dropping in heat fast, so i finished off the second coat and i noticed a minute later alot of runs and sags starting to form.
this is the 3rd time where the burner failed and every time it has failed, i get runs in the clear. is this a coincidence that everytime the burner fails i get runs or does no heat in the booth caused runs??
i sprayed debeer HS clear with normal hardener 2;1 mix 10% reducer.
devilbiss gti pro gun with GUN TRIGGER ONLY 2 TURNS OUT!!i seem to battle with runs all the time with clear, can you guys help me out? whats your opinions,
thanks in advance.
I think you’ve answered your own question really – three times is more than a coincidence 😉
But yes, a large drop in temperature can make a great difference, hence why paint manufacturers make different reducers/thinners for different temp ranges.
Imagine you’re putting the clear on, and the temp suddenly drops part way through. The atomised droplets coming from your gun will now be a lot “wetter” as the solvents in them won’t have evaporated as much in their journey from gun to panel. Then once they hit the panel, the solvents will take longer to flash, leaving the film of clear wetter for longer, so it will flow much more, making it more prone to sagging and running. All you can do in such a situation is compensate by putting less on, either by moving your arm faster or pulling away a little and reducing overlaps. Neither is ideal though, and keeping a roughly even temperature throughout the job is really a priority. Spraying at a low temp without the burner is probably better than having it cut off part way through.
Which DeBeer clear are you using by the way? And which hardener & reducer?
[quote=”Andy T” post=20036]I think you’ve answered your own question really – three times is more than a coincidence 😉
But yes, a large drop in temperature can make a great difference, hence why paint manufacturers make different reducers/thinners for different temp ranges.
Imagine you’re putting the clear on, and the temp suddenly drops part way through. The atomised droplets coming from your gun will now be a lot “wetter” as the solvents in them won’t have evaporated as much in their journey from gun to panel. Then once they hit the panel, the solvents will take longer to flash, leaving the film of clear wetter for longer, so it will flow much more, making it more prone to sagging and running. All you can do in such a situation is compensate by putting less on, either by moving your arm faster or pulling away a little and reducing overlaps. Neither is ideal though, and keeping a roughly even temperature throughout the job is really a priority. Spraying at a low temp without the burner is probably better than having it cut off part way through.
Which DeBeer clear are you using by the way? And which hardener & reducer?[/quote]
Exactly. All you can do is adjust your technique, try differnet products (clear, hardener, reducer maybe accelerator). You could also try using a different gun or fluid tip set too.
Most importantly, get the booth repaired properly…obviously. When the temperature is good, do you typically get consistently good results?
I agree with Andy. Having the heat cut off midway through would create more issues than having no heat at all from the beginning. The only real solution is to get the burner fixed.
That clear is tricky too what number of debeer clear was it ?
THE CLEARCOAT AND THE hardener needs to be kept at room temperature.if its kept over night in cold conditions it will be thick ,so when you mix it and apply it to your panels,its gone on thick .as your temperature in your oven is warm it will thin out your thick clear coat causing it to run.That’s just another option.
thank you for your replies
Andy T, i will find out the type of debeer clear it is as well as the hardener and reducer.Ben, when the booth is working fine, most of the times i do get ok results, when i dont get runs or sags the overall finish comes out with a little bit too much orange peel i dint know why.
this week i am trying out my iwata supernova with a different clear (protec). Dont know if you guys heard of this clear before.
i will let you know how i go with it.
[quote=”wambam” post=20061]thank you for your replies
Andy T, i will find out the type of debeer clear it is as well as the hardener and reducer.Ben, when the booth is working fine, most of the times i do get ok results, when i dont get runs or sags the overall finish comes out with a little bit too much orange peel i dint know why.
this week i am trying out my iwata supernova with a different clear (protec). Dont know if you guys heard of this clear before.
i will let you know how i go with it.[/quote]
If they are not normally coming out how you want, you should definitely switch things up and make it work for you. What temp is the booth normally? When it failed, how cool did it get in there?
Normal temprature when spraying i set it to 26 degrees clecius. When the burner failer, the temprature when as low as 16 degrees celcius.
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