Clear coat bubbled – how do I remedy ?
- This topic has 13 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 9 months ago by .
- Posts
Hi Guys,
I clearcoated my motorcycle petrol tank & had a couple of bubbles caused by the pinstripe tape not stuck properly. What will I have to do to solve this ?. Can I carry out a local repair where the bubbles are or will it mean flatting the whole tank & clearcoating again ?
Many Thanks
Mick
It will prob help the guys answer you better if you stick up couple of pics.
But my gut would say flatten and redo would prob be best.Sorry thought Id posted a pic !!!
Here you go. The gold pinstriping has also slightly bubbled in places caused by a small “ridge” that formed when I did the white over the blue. Any tips on avoiding this ?.
They say you [i]do[/i] learn from your mistakes !! :blush:
Thanks again
Mick
That’s not coming out; more clear is not going to make that problem magically disappear. Solvent creep affects the adhesive and causes the edge to pucker. You also can’t put decals over a taped hard edge and expect it not to show; the surface must be flat. To prevent vinyl lift, avoid wet coats and allow maximum flash. Best way to avoid it is to use paint throughout, forget about vinyl stripes. Here’s a thread with the same issue. http://www.refinishnetwork.com/component/kunena/7-paint-and-refinish/27166-graphics
Painting over any decal is risky. I have done it,and be ok..then next time, have a problem like yours. Not being able to sand the stripe ir decal is part of the problem.
[quote=”ScottB” post=31049] Best way to avoid it is to use paint throughout, forget about vinyl stripes.[/quote]
Thanks Scott,
Can you give me any advice on how to achieve a 2 tone job with sharp lines & without a hard edge ?. Which tape to use etc ?. I did actually use line marking tape but was still left with a slightly raised edge
Many thanks
Mick
Mick, start with a primeed. Tank. Cover the area you don’t want painted…..that would be the larger color. I always paint the smallest area color first. Paint it with base. After it dries, you remove the tape, there will be an edge,scotch pad that off and now tape the color you painted. The new color will match edge to edge. You just have to tape it tight. Another way is to clear over the first color. Scuff the whole tank, paint the second color and then reclear the whole thing. If you have a little edge you can resend and reclear again. Anybody else? I knw it is a lot of reclear….. But that’s what makes it slick. Bill
[quote=”billgaino” post=31061]Mick, start with a primeed. Tank. Cover the area you don’t want painted…..that would be the larger color. I always paint the smallest area color first. Paint it with base. After it dries, you remove the tape, there will be an edge,scotch pad that off and now tape the color you painted. The new color will match edge to edge. You just have to tape it tight. Another way is to clear over the first color. Scuff the whole tank, paint the second color and then reclear the whole thing. If you have a little edge you can resend and reclear again. Anybody else? I knw it is a lot of reclear….. But that’s what makes it slick. Bill[/quote]
Wrong. You never tape graphics edge to edge. You also don’t use a scotchbrite on basecoats. That’s not going to be very good for metallics unless you want that custom brushed finish. Multiple colors can be done in one day observing adequate flashtimes. If not, blow on clear base and proceed as your abilities allow. Custom painting has different approaches depending on the complexity of the artwork. Shoot 2-3 coats of clear over finished artwork, sand and clear again to level the surface.
Thanks for your input guys. I’m a beginner doing my own stuff & some of the terminology is confusing. I found this thread, http://www.refinishnetwork.com/car-painting-how-to/item/346-how-to-paint-stripes on painting stripes. It recommends clearcoating the hard edge then wet sanding & clearcoating again. Would it be also be feasible to sand the hard edge separating 2 colours a little before the first clearcoat ?.
Thanks again
Mick
You can’t sand metallic base at all right before clearing. It will mess the flake effect up. On solid colors you could but I wouldn’t. Just clear , sand, and clear again.
Why do I always have to defend myself.? You CAN tape edge to edge if is is a simple 2tone, of course you can’t precision tape complex curves. I’m just knocking off the base where it leaves a edge at the tape line. I normally don’t touch my base before clear. You better watch what base you use, some cannot be taped before clear. I have done it with Diamont, but theRM will pull off with the tape. I guess the safe way is to clear over each color. It just takes longer, and in my world….time is money!
[quote=”billgaino” post=31155]Why do I always have to defend myself.? I have done it with Diamont, but theRM will pull off with the tape. I guess the safe way is to clear over each color. It just takes longer, and in my world….time is money![/quote]
Because of statements like this and others. Diamont won’t pull off but R-M will? Have you read a label or looked at the BASF website lately? If you are pulling off paint when taping, there is something wrong with procedure.[quote=”billgaino” post=31155]Why do I always have to defend myself.? You CAN tape edge to edge if is is a simple 2tone, of course you can’t precision tape complex curves. I’m just knocking off the base where it leaves a edge at the tape line. I normally don’t touch my base before clear. You better watch what base you use, some cannot be taped before clear. I have done it with Diamont, but theRM will pull off with the tape. I guess the safe way is to clear over each color. It just takes longer, and in my world….time is money![/quote]
No need to defend yourself. Just realize that most arent going to think your advise is the greatest. taping edge to edge can work but you are not going to get as clean of a line as you would spraying one color then taping off and doing the 2 tone. That is just a fact. If you use proper tape, dont hammer the color on and unmask properly, then there will not be a big tape edge. Base will pull up with the tape if you did not prep properly or did not let the base flash properly before taping. Only base that I am aware of that needs a coat of clear before taping is BASF Waterborne. You are aware that Diamont is RM ?Our shop is on basf onyx, and i do two tones without clearing before taping. we use a tape from fbs corperation that is made for stuff like that.I agree if it is preped corectly,and watch your flash times,there should be no problems.I use diamont (R&M) on the motorhomes i paint on the side and i do not have any issues with stripes or graphics.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.