clear question
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Since I can’t spray high solid clear on door panel without wave yet, should I just use med solid 4:1 clear for any collision spraying? What am I losing in using 4:1 med solid instead of 2:1 high solid? The clear I have are AG40LV high solid, and MSV-21 med solid, both Matrix.
Also, I used to have Nason 465 high solid clear that requires 20% in mix. That was the only high solid clear that I could spray without wavy issue, and it lays really well. I can’t get that clear anymore, but I found Diamond DC92 high solid clear that also requires 20% reducer. Is this a good clear? Is 20% reduced clear just easier to spray than regular high solid?
Why are you having problems?AG40LV is thin and sprays really nice for me,high solids does not mean thick.What are you using to spray it?
I used 670 plus. Someone referred by Matrix told me to spray it with pressure around 25psi, I am thinking that might be the problem since I am using complaint gun. Before this one, I had Nason 465 that I could layout nice by 37psi, quick spray in 6 inches with this same gun, but Nason clear requires 20% reducer. So, that make me think …. is this type of high solid clear just easier to spray than AG40LV or Transtar? That is why I asked about DC92.
I did also have problem with hardner, which my stupid jobber sold me medium temp since they were out of high temp. I have told him that I was gonna spray an entire car, but still. I was later told by someone that is a big NO NO for overall. However, I have tried it again on a single panel at temp about 70, I still got some wave in it.
I am thinking to try again with 35-40psi pressure, and quick spray. Suggestion?
use whatever air pressure the gun manufacturer recommends. IMO 25 psi does sound a bit low
What do you mean wave? Usually wavy is body work. Are talking about texture/orange peel? Have you not tested the gun out and set it up for spraying first? If someone recommends a certain setup (including air pressure) that may be a good starting point, but you still need to adjust things to suit your need.
As Jayson matter the thickness (viscosity) had nothing to do with the solids content. Whether or not a coating is thick, with the right usage it should still spray and lay down well.
Using a slow vs fast activator/reducer affects the open time of the product. It can also affect the texture to an extent as well. But on a large job (such as a complete) the biggest concern is keeping a wet edge. I have sprayed a complete with a product that was a little faster than my liking. While knowing the product and working quick the end result was just fine.
He is talking about urethane wave,there are a couple of forums who talk about it all the time.Trust me you are not going to see it with 2 coats of AG40LV.Maybe you need to bump up your pressure,6 inches is to far away.I can spray that clear with an rp at 26psi and not get anything like that,hell even sikkens superior 250 with 70% solids and don’t get it.Please don’t think you need to reduce every clear to make it spray better,its just not so.What exactly are you spraying?? A bumper that is already wavy 😛
The problem is not the panel surface; the panel was original just repainted. The wave only happens on vertical flat panels. I sprayed a 01 Ford Ranger overall, and I could see wave in both door panels and bed side panels. I got a long plastic durablock this time, so I sanded the panel with it and P800 sandpaper. After few passes, I found low spots. It seems to me that I didn’t lay the clear evenly, got it got wavy on the surface.
After few days, I had to repaint one of the door. I tried to spray this clear again without reducer in it, and also at lower temp ( about 68 with med hardner sold to me by mistake), and it seems working out better, but the surface is not satisfiable. Next panel I spray, I will try to increase pressure to Devilbiss suggested 30-40psi.
Also, I don’t seem to have problem on fender or bumper; just the large vertical panel.
Jayson – Should I spray closer than 6in? I suppose that I should move quick in that kind of distance. Yeh?
So its wavy from uneven overlap then?
Make sure the gun is opened up enough and allow a minimum of 50% overlap (I often go close to 70 % to ensure even coverage).
You said you are using the Devilbiss Plus? The Plus gun is ok, but it really likes a lot of pressure to lay clear really nice. Don’t spray the Plus too close, with the higher pressure from it, you will not get the even coverage you want, but somewhere around4-6″ may be better. Adjust the gun as needed and adjust your speed to suit it as well.
Always set the gun up before spraying on the panel and watch how it is laying down as you spray. If you need to occasionally stop briefly at then end of a pass to see how it looks, do so.
Thanks for all your helpful advises.
Could my problem be the 1st coat painted too wet? I never thought about spraying the 1st coat as tack/drop coat, till I saw low spots after I sanded with 800 & plastic block. I have never seen low spots when sanding a wavy clear coat since I used regular durablock, till this time. The way this wave looks to me is more like flowing issue or my gun is not spraying consistently, not really seems like the issue of overlap. So, maybe my 1st coat was a bit too wet?
I just bought a metal plate from Lowes for test spray. So, I think I got pretty good idea now how to fix this thing. Thanks
Here is something to think about,if your clear looks like corn on the cob with low spots while sanding I think this is your problem.Your pressure is too low,and you are moving too slow.You need to open up fan and material knobs to wide open and try 35 psi.The further away and slower you go the higher the film build will be,if you move in nice and tight (4inches)and move fast you will put on a thinner wetter coat.Check and make sure your gun is clean(aircap holes,fluid tip etc)and you have a nice fan pattern
I also believe you are having a low pressure problem. I Have sprayed gallons of the Nason and last year switched to Matrix MS 52,with SATa RP My gauge on the wall where my hose is connected reads 60 plus PSI. I’m not sure what is at the gun, and really don’t care. My son came into my booth to remove wheels one day, and jacked up the pressure to 100, The next car I painted did not come out so slick. It then hit me what had happened and I put tape on the regulator to keep it tamper proof. I leave the pressure set at 60+. Your jobber may have an air cap that fits your gun, and you can use that to adjust your air pressure. Mine had one
that fit and he said mine was just right I had set by FEEL. I also wait for the fist coat to kinda string off my fingertip before applying the second. Looking at my gauge.. it is pegged at maybe 80 PSI. Bill
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