clear sagging…help!!

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  • Pat smith
    January 22, 2011 at 11:22 am #27523

    okay, I need help on this fast.. the car has to go back in two days.

    I sprayed the car with clear tonight and while on the second coat a stupid fly landed on the quarter panel!!!

    I picked it out but looking at it closer I noticed that there was a piece of the wing left behind behind.

    After I picked it I sprayed a little more clear over that area and waited awhile and resprayed the whole panel again. After I sprayed it the clear sagged.

    I know that you can use a razor blade and drag it over it to flatten it but I always seem to have an image left behind when you look down the side of the car.

    Whats the best way to make it totally disappear? The car is a show car and needs to be perfect. Should I scrape it the best I can and use maybe 600 to block it smooth? I know if you use coarse paper it makes the panel flatter than using fine paper that can glide over the bump.

    Thanks…:exci

    Dennis
    January 22, 2011 at 3:45 pm #27524

    If you are looking to flatten down just the sag/run and buff the area, you will get an image when you look down the side. this is because your run is perfectly sanded down flat and buffed (no peel) while the surrounding area will most likely have some texture (peel). Two things you can do depending on if you have enough clear on the panel. one of which is sanding the run/sag and also wetsanding the whole panel with 1500/2000 and buffing it. or you can wetsand with 1000 and apply another coat, whether reduced for a flowcoat or one regular coat is up to you…

    Barry Overby
    January 22, 2011 at 7:11 pm #27527

    Spread some metal glaze over the sag then block w/320-800 until the glaze and sag are gone then progress up to 1500-2000 and buff.

    ryan brown
    January 22, 2011 at 7:17 pm #27528

    Start with P400 on a piece of a paintstick. Move to 800 than 1200. To be honest I do almost any run or sag this way and never burn through. The 400 will flatten it quick then just refine your scratches. Using too light of a grit will sand the surrounding paint more than needed without leveling the run. If the run isn’t real bad you can start with 600 or 800.

    It’s kinda like sanding your first coat of filler and trying to shape it with 220 rather than 80. It will sand it but you will have a hell of a time getting it flat and straight.

    ryan brown
    January 22, 2011 at 7:19 pm #27529

    [quote=”bloverby” post=17452]Spread some metal glaze over the sag then block w/320-800 until the glaze and sag are gone then progress up to 1500-2000 and buff.[/quote]

    This works very good! 😉

    Ben Hart
    January 22, 2011 at 7:57 pm #27530

    just to clarify, is this ONE sag, or several sags? How big is it/are they?

    If it is more than just a small area I would think it would be quicker and easier to sand them out and re-clear…

    Ben Hart
    January 22, 2011 at 7:58 pm #27531

    On second thought, I’m perfect and have never gotten a sag, so my suggestion is based purely on speculation… :rofl

    Richard
    January 22, 2011 at 10:40 pm #27535

    Sag? We in these parts call them Flow Indicators.
    Yup. it’sa flowin! :whistle:

    jackcarlson
    January 22, 2011 at 11:09 pm #27540

    [quote=”Ben” post=17455]just to clarify, is this ONE sag, or several sags? How big is it/are they?

    If it is more than just a small area I would think it would be quicker and easier to sand them out and re-clear…[/quote]
    i dont think he said he had ta use the weed whacker ta cut the thing off the floor benney:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl

    darren
    January 23, 2011 at 1:58 am #27542

    just leave it in there and charge the customer a little more since u used more material:whistle:

    MoCoke
    January 23, 2011 at 3:43 am #27548

    everything sags with age 😛 i never had much luck removing a run without it ghosting so i always reclear

    Richard
    January 23, 2011 at 4:03 am #27550

    [quote=”bondomerchant” post=17465][quote=”Ben” post=17455]just to clarify, is this ONE sag, or several sags? How big is it/are they?

    If it is more than just a small area I would think it would be quicker and easier to sand them out and re-clear…[/quote]
    i dont think he said he had ta use the weed whacker ta cut the thing off the floor benney:rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl[/quote]

    :lol1 :clappy

    There are several methods to getting out a run.
    And although Razoring works. it’s easy to over/under do it and either burn through, or not cut enough that you get ghosting.

    So far the best and most user friendly method I’ve found to take one out (Although far from the fastest) is the putty trick.

    Not that I get runs or anything like that. Just what I’ve heard. :whistle:

    Shawn Goodson
    January 24, 2011 at 6:51 am #27580

    Could have always added another coat and chase those runs to the bottom of the panel. Then use a razor to chop off the “icicles”:stoned

    Pat smith
    January 24, 2011 at 12:01 pm #27584

    Thanks guys… I ended up using a blade to scrape it flush and sanding with 800,1000,1500,3000. came out perfect. Had to sand it twice but it came out.

    Thanks for all the help. I will try to putty trick[i] if [/i]I ever get another run.

    I will post up a few pictures of the car. The owner loved it when he came by to load it on the trailer.

    james caruso
    January 24, 2011 at 5:38 pm #27585

    yeah really the key thing here is that when you block you use the hardest, flattest thing you can find and dont start with a super fine grit. 600 is a good place to usually start. i have a small corian block that i use. it will sand completely flat with no ghost image.

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