Clearcoat over old clearcoat?
- This topic has 8 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 8 months ago by .
- Posts
Hi guys
Someone kindly reversed their tow bar into the plastic rear bumper on my 2002 WRX (no tear, just a dent, so it’s going to need filler). It already has its fair share of scratches from short-sighted reverse-parkers, so rather than pay a pro and burst a blood vessel when it happens again I figured I’d try to repair it myself. I’ve never attempted anything like this before, so I turned to the trusty internet, and found this forum, and I think I now have the stages of prep and painting clear in my head. Think…
There’s one thing though… Am I understanding this right, beyond the repair the new clearcoat is sprayed directly onto the old scuffed up clearcoat? My brain keeps telling me that can’t be right as I’d be spraying clear over a hazy surface, but that’s what the videos seem to be showing me.
Thanks
John
If the clear on the rest of the panel is undamaged then, yes, just clean, scuff and apply new clear over it. The new clear needs the scratching to get a solid bond but will fill those scratches so you won’t ever know.
[quote=”NFT5″ post=31744]If the clear on the rest of the panel is undamaged then, yes, just clean, scuff and apply new clear over it. The new clear needs the scratching to get a solid bond but will fill those scratches so you won’t ever know.[/quote]
Thanks.
Is my best bet to re-clear the whole bumper rather than try to blend the clear? It seems like there are opposing opinions on this, and how long blended clear will last.
its a better repair to clear the whole bumper. and unless you are an experienced painter, it will be easier and faster than trying to blend the clear as well
agreed, clearing the whole bumper will be ideal. a heat gun (and wet rag or water bottle) should help heat shrink and get the bumper cover back to a shape that should need less filler
We do mobile spot painting and our new clear coat system is – GlowPro Permanent Clear Coating (non-spray). Our video demo: http://youtu.be/51Z-ZbXjlxw
System & Training available – avg dealer pays $275-350/vehicle http://www.onsitefixit.com
The heat gun is the one part that makes me a little hesitant. Is it easy to screw up that part and overheat the plastic? Just wondering what my margin for error is there.
Also, any recommendations on a good filler for plastic would be appreciated.
Just hold the heat gun back from the plastic about 6″-8″ and keep moving it, playing around the outside edges of the dent. Always better to heat up less than too much. Heat from the back(inside) of the bar gently until you can “pop” the dent out. You can use the rounded end of a screwdriver handle to push the dent out or I just use a well folded cloth. Don’t touch with your hands though – it will be hot. Rub around the edges of the dent from the outside while still hot to reduce any high spots. If you are really concerned about using a heat gun then you can use a hair dryer – just takes longer.
The theory of dent removal in plastic is just the same as it is in metal – relieve the pressure on the dent (usually where the high spot is) and the bulk of the dent will just pop out with just a little pressure. Some use cold water to “set” the plastic – I’ve never bothered, just let it cool.
Once the dent has popped then sand off paint from the outside and fill the low spot as needed. Any automotive body filler will do. Plastic needs to be roughed up with 80-120 paper to aid adhesion but don’t go further than you need to with such coarse paper or you’ll end up with “hairy bits” when you prime. Smooth repair area with 400 and feather paint edges well. Prime and paint.
Sounds pretty simple? OK, now do it in 3 hours, start to finish. :p
Haha, I’m thinking more like 3 days. Thanks for all your help.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.