Color blending

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  • May 8, 2009 at 3:57 pm #14256

    I am having a real hard time here lately doing small blends. Yesterday it was on a bumper (code WA411p, grey).

    Here is what I do:
    Devilbiss SRIW with 1.0 at 25psi
    RM paint reduced 2:1
    Wet bed 2 coats
    put 1 color on wet
    2nd a little drier
    3rd reduced with intercoat clear 1:1 and thinned and gun with either reduced pressure or gun pulled back.

    What I am seeing is the middle dark and the outer edges lighter.

    I am I just not putting it on heavy enough?

    I do mobile work, I need to keep things as small as possible. Has anyone had challenges with this particular color?

    Thanks,
    Kent

    May 8, 2009 at 5:03 pm #14257

    sounds like it …. the drier you spray , the less the metalics sink ….. try keeping your paint and spray the same wetness and just flip it out a bit …. your creating a halo by over reducing , and spraying ligher, …..keep it consistant through out and see if it’s any better. put down some clear base first (orientation coat) and allow to flash first , then start small (just cover your spot) with 1 or 2 med wet color , flashing and tacking between , then bigger and bigger with med wet and slightly toss your last couple coats. (paint guns have a natural abilitly to blend , so don’t try so hard , let your gun do the work) :pcorn:

    May 8, 2009 at 5:34 pm #14259

    Sometimes a real slow reducer helps,…. to keep it wetter.

    May 8, 2009 at 5:37 pm #14260

    On this particular job the dealer flat bedded the car to me and sat and watched as I did the repair. I was under the gun to get it done fast and small. I wanted to do the whole bumper but he said no. I know that I could have done it better.

    May 8, 2009 at 5:59 pm #14261

    ya the wet coat is letting the metallics sink in the middle making it darker and the lighter coats are making the edges lighter. do what stone said. keep the coats consistant

    Anonymous
    May 8, 2009 at 6:22 pm #14262

    One thing I’d suggest in place of a clear base for an orientation coat is an over-reduced clear. When your doing a spot repair it’s best to pick an over-reduced clear because you can take it further, this way you only need to clear over your base and not have to worry about how far to bring your clearcoat when that time comes. Usually by the time your finished blending your stuck trying to remember where you brought your BC100 to and you end up clearing way further then necessary on a spot repair. I like stones advice aside from that.

    One other method that can help too, I’ve yet to try it on spot repair but in theory it sounds good. Spraying from the outside in. Do your blend first, second coat inside, third coat inside the second. It’s supposed to prevent you from painting over a previous coats overspray and your surface is always perfectly smooth. I’ve done this on large panels and it works well, spot repair could be another story. It was a BASF recommendation I’d seen in the winning spirit a while back.

    I’ve done a few GM metallic grey’s & some can be a bit ignorant to blow in. It takes practice, but if that’s the color I’m thinking of it can also be a bit of a deceptive color, I’d look at the variant’s too.

    Anonymous
    May 8, 2009 at 6:26 pm #14263

    I just pulled that colors mixing history and we always go with the darker and yellower variant in Diamont.

    May 8, 2009 at 9:29 pm #14266

    Great info guys. Thank you!

    May 9, 2009 at 11:11 pm #14281

    [b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
    [quote]

    One other method that can help too, I’ve yet to try it on spot repair but in theory it sounds good. Spraying from the outside in. Do your blend first, second coat inside, third coat inside the second. It’s supposed to prevent you from painting over a previous coats overspray and your surface is always perfectly smooth.[/quote]

    That’s how I do it, and it certainly works for me. I still make sure I tack well between coats though to remove any of the ‘stood up’ flakes around the edges.

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