Color sanding question
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I have a heck of hard time coloring sanding my clear after a week drying. I was told that within 48 hours air dry, it will be easier to sand and buff clear. I use Matrix AG40LV, which on the tech sheet it says 16-24 hours air dry before buffing.
If I start my clear sanding with P800 finishing film for flat sanding on OP and/or dry spot. Can I follow up with P1500 trizact after P800 DA sanding? with interface pad ok?
The clear is too hard to sand? Or do you mean it is difficult to remove scratches and polish?
P800 is really coarse for wetsanding and polishing. 1500 should do most stuff (unless you are just working 1 small spot) otherwise you may be better off sanding an re-clearing.
I agree with Ben I never use anything corser then 1500 to 2000 grit to
do my sanding before I buff. 800 is way to course for me.
I have never used the clear you are using though
Most clears sand real good around the 16 to 24 hour mark for me it depends on the clear you use.
David800 is a no no. 1200 is the coarsest grit i would use. I use that clear everyday and i consider is effortless to cut and buff…
Thanks for the answers!
I would want to start with P1500 trizact, but I am new to this clear, and still trying to get it lay down well. I will get some P1200 for my next project if I still can’t get the clear to lay down flat.
Another question. Trizact P1500 is a bit costly, but it works much better than dry finishing film on clear that is drys for days or longer. If I use P1500 dry finishing film on AG40LV clear within 48 hours dry time ( still soft ), will I be able to buff out its pigtails if followed by P3000 Trizact?
Smooth, do you reduce this clear? If you do, how much reducer? Thanks much!
I can’t see using any thing coarser than 1500 regardless of brand on paper or clear, then follow with 3000 then buff, that’s the way I do it. and there are clears out there that can be buffed after 3 0r 4 hours, I normally wait 24
Pigtails sometimes occur when you are using that paper, and not keeping the panel clean enough. Those ones will be deeper and seldom polish out. Normal 1500 scratches (followed by the 3000) should come up nice.
Also, you need to use a good polish system with the appropriate pads and a good polisher. Some polishes just don’t work well with some clears.
Being patient, using the right products and keeping everything clean are all absolutely crucial.
[quote=”stanclub” post=26998]Thanks for the answers!
I would want to start with P1500 trizact, but I am new to this clear, and still trying to get it lay down well. I will get some P1200 for my next project if I still can’t get the clear to lay down flat.
Another question. Trizact P1500 is a bit costly, but it works much better than dry finishing film on clear that is drys for days or longer. If I use P1500 dry finishing film on AG40LV clear within 48 hours dry time ( still soft ), will I be able to buff out its pigtails if followed by P3000 Trizact?
Smooth, do you reduce this clear? If you do, how much reducer? Thanks much![/quote]
No reducer. I think it actually might say not to reduce it. Just 2:1 through a sata 4000 Rp 1.4 close and fast at 26-30 psi and the stuff lays like glass.
close and fast huh. I will give it a try. Have you tried 1.3 tip instead of 1.4? I do have 1.4, so I will try it next time also. Thanks for the info
Im using a Sata 4000 Rp. I have used a 1.3 with great results but its too slow for that gun.
You guys have been stuck in “collision repair” paint jobs to long,
High End custom shops generally start with 400 grit to sand their clear,
you won’t get rid of urethane wave completely useing something
above 600 grit. Try it once and you’ll see the difference.
I know I didn’t believe it either at first, but it does make a difference.http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect%20paint.htm
[quote=”JCClark” post=27043]You guys have been stuck in “collision repair” paint jobs to long,
High End custom shops generally start with 400 grit to sand their clear,
you won’t get rid of urethane wave completely useing something
above 600 grit. Try it once and you’ll see the difference.
I know I didn’t believe it either at first, but it does make a difference.http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect%20paint.htm%5B/quote%5D
Us “Collision repair” guys that paint everyday, dont get urathane wave to sand out. All we have to sand is the odd dust nib and dont rely on cutting and polishing to make our work look good.
We are experienced painters that paint in a production setting that will put those custom shop painters to shame.
If the “high end” custom shops are using that generic crap i really doubt they are “high end”.[quote=”JCClark” post=27043]You guys have been stuck in “collision repair” paint jobs to long,
A backyarder talking about “collision repair” and “high End custom shops” strikes me as funny 😡 😛[quote=”JCClark” post=27043]You guys have been stuck in “collision repair” paint jobs to long,
High End custom shops generally start with 400 grit to sand their clear,
you won’t get rid of urethane wave completely useing something
above 600 grit. Try it once and you’ll see the difference.
I know I didn’t believe it either at first, but it does make a difference.http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect%20paint.htm%5B/quote%5D
A backyarder preaching about “collison repair” & “high end custom shops” is ironic 😡 😛
lol 😆
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