Complete refinish thickness?
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- AnonymousJune 19, 2012 at 1:37 am #37307
Old paint was totally chiseled/scraped off the car this left some factory paint and primer. This was DA’d off the car to raw fiberglass with 120 grit paper. I kept thinking “reflow” the whole time Im on this car. LOL Hey I knew the factory paint was lacquer and I have had lots of experience with it…. good and bad. 馃檪 I was also pretty paranoid about out gassing with any solvent activity. To be honest so much time has passed since this nightmare began that Im not sure what I did to clean up. It was probably very small amount (reads not dripping wet) of lacquer thinner. Again cause I was wondering about soaking into and what not there is no way I painted the same day I wiped it down. literally it could have been a week before it got primed even. After the initial bare fiberglass tac rags was it for any clean up thereafter.
June 19, 2012 at 3:55 am #37310So i understand correctly, you removed all paint layers and the gel-coat?
Did you see/expose the glass fibers? If so, did you re-apply gel-coat or polyester primer?
AnonymousJune 19, 2012 at 6:52 am #37319I did not purposely remove the gel coat. But there were places that had exposed fibers. Some were covered with the panel adhesive like it was bondo some were smooth enough I thought it not necessary. (thin gel coat?) That said I have plenty of places that are still gelcoat that have bubbled too. The entire roof was in really good shape and required almost nothing. It has bubbles too. Smaller bubbles but bubbles just the same. There wasn’t a lick of original paint up there. But no exposed fiber on the roof at all……… Could it get to a point that it was thin enough to cause problems yet couldn’t see fibers? Im gonna fell pretty stupid if DPLF doesnt stick to fiberglass…… especially since I read this off the brochure.
DPLF may be applied over:
路 Properly cleaned and sanded steel +
路 Properly cleaned and sand blasted steel +
路 Properly cleaned and sanded galvanized steel +
路 Properly cleaned and sanded aluminum +
路 Properly cleaned and sanded fiberglass
路 Properly cleaned (unsanded) E鈥揅oat
with DP401LF catalyst only 路 Various cleaned and sanded Rigid Plastics:
ABS, Nylon, Polycarbonate, Noryl, PBT SMC,
with DP401LF catalyst onlyStarting to remind me of the time I used flex agent (35 years ago my first on my own paint job) only in the top coat (as per instructions) even called the maker to verify that it was only required in the last top coat of CLEAR. I even expressed concern that the other layers wouldn’t flex. Really? Yes the factory told me even on base/clear jobs only required in the last coat. And I believed them even though my brain said no dont do it.
I still have that urethane bumper to this day. The shiniest darn Diamond black lacquer with 3 coats of hand sanded clear on top. You can read a newspaper in that muther…. as long as you arent trying to do it where it flexed and cracked the base coats and 2 of the clears. LOL. But that top layer is the smoothest thing you ever could ask for. And guess what…. IT FLEXES BEAUTIFULLY!!!! @#$@%%#@#@%$#@$@$#%@%$#@
So fiberglass doesnt really mean fiberglass?
June 19, 2012 at 7:45 am #37322Somethings leading me towards airline contamination.
DP (or any other primer) does NOT go over broken fiberglass. It must be sealed off with either gel or polyester primer.
AnonymousJune 19, 2012 at 10:42 am #37323[quote=”Ben” post=26557]So, just to clarify, the first coat of epoxy that was done 1 year before everything else came up as well?
How old were the products when you used them, particularly the activator? Was there ever any humidity issues, or water in the air line?[/quote]
Unless iphoto is lying to me, which I don’t believe it can do, … I have shots of the DP going on in late June and the flat board work happening in early June the following year. I do remember reading , before the flat board work, that the DP needed a second coat because it had been on the car to long. So I scuffed it and shot a second coat and commenced the week long ritual of flat boarding the hell out of it.
Holy cow…….. Is it possible that the GEL COAT is whats delaming??????? Or maybe some other schmoes polyester primer? Im staring at the pics……….. The very first bubble to show up was right behind the drivers door. Less than a month post color……… Its now raw fiberglass. That area of the car WAS NOT fiber showing when I started!
Im starting to think I have more than one problem cause not all the delam leaves raw fiberglass but a lot of it does……..
June 19, 2012 at 5:37 pm #37324Ouch, this is looking like a real headache.
Open a fresh blister and smell it, what does it smell like?
What year is the car? What kind of car?
AnonymousJune 20, 2012 at 1:57 am #37330Well when I do stuff….. I usually do it big. 馃檪 Ok no blisters to check right now. I did light up one biggie today and didnt smell anything. But I was really trying to either. I will try again when its really calm out and see.
Could I have sanded enough of the “gel coat” (generic term for what was under what ever was on the car) to weaken it into coming unglued? Its deff coming off the car. Cause there are exposed fibers where there were not when the project began.
81 vette
So…….. now how do I deal with all this? Sand it all off to bare glass and use polyester primer? Gel coat? Welding accident near flammable liquids? Mulholland drive with tire spikes at dead mans curve?
June 20, 2012 at 3:55 am #37332Technically “dead man’s curve” is on Sunset Blvd….LOL
i would 80 grit it back down and get a good Polyester primer (U-Pol Reface works well at a reasonable price), several coats to ensure a good stable surface.
But you really need to figure out wha went wrong before commencing a repair. Without it possibly repeating the past could be in the future.
AnonymousJune 23, 2012 at 8:51 pm #37437[quote=”Red Baron” post=26568]Technically “dead man’s curve” is on Sunset Blvd….LOL
i would 80 grit it back down and get a good Polyester primer (U-Pol Reface works well at a reasonable price), several coats to ensure a good stable surface.
But you really need to figure out wha went wrong before commencing a repair. Without it possibly repeating the past could be in the future.[/quote]
OK so I dont know Cally that well. LOL
From what Im seeing the “gel coat” came off with the DP40 thus far.
So did I weaken the gell coat by sanding it too thin?
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