“cost effective” clears what are you guys useing?
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Ez edger……ill have to look that up. Good thread!
[quote=”jim c” post=15729]Ez edger……ill have to look that up. Good thread![/quote]
[url=http://www.ezedger.com/]here you go mang![/url]
There are tricks to this as well. For instance if painting a rocker, run the tape so you will see it on the outside of the car. You want the sticky part just back of where the rocker has a 90 degree turn to go into the jamb. If done this way there is no line in the rocker. Also if your painting a hood or trunk and doing the fender or 1/4’s run the tape a little further down. Since there will be more build from clearing a flat panel give it a little bit more room.
Also lay the tape where you want it to be. Don’t pull it as you go, it can curve up, and the flap won’t do it’s job.
Something else I will do in certain situations is use both the folded tape and the transition tape. Say on a 1/4 and door job you are going to seal it. Run the folded tape inside a little more than usual. Then put a piece of transition tape next to it. Leave a little piece of the TT out at the top. After you spray your sealer pull out the TT. That way your basecoat will go past it easily and you won’t be left with a little bit of sealer creep.
Real good info there ryan :cheers
I got a box of 3m foam tape when I painted my first time, and in my research learned there were like 4 different kinds. 3m’s website had the breakdown for the best place to use whatever type/shape. When I went to NAPA they had no idea there was anything besides the 1/2″. So I went to the body shops. They had no idea either!
are you guys having issues with bridging because you’re only using the one size of foam tape?
The car I was doing I needed 3 different kinds, ideally. It didn’t end up being a problem, but I never had any problems with the one style.
I have all 3 sizes. The smallest is about useless to me. I use the largest most of the time. I always try to stick it to the backside of the opposing panel and tuck it back with a card once shut.
By the time you dick with it though I could have put a piece of six inch paper in there. The only place I use it a bunch is in between the fender and door and on roof rails. I like sticking it to the fender jamb while the door is open. Once shut tuck it in. Also if painting a roof rail put it on the tops of the doors and shut them. Running paper up there is time consuming. A small piece also works good at the top of a hood, if you can get the sticky part on the backside of the fender where the hinge is. That’s an area that is a little tough to seal completely as the hinge is there and the cowl panel.
Honestly the best tip I have found for masking fast is to not waste motion. Start from one end and work smart, don’t have wasted movements. Also plastic is your friend. I dont waste time papering edges, then cutting the plastic around them again. Do it once.
I would be interested in some tips on how others tape. This seems like a thread where everybody can pick up a few new tricks.
i use the 3m transition tape and the ez-edger i would use the transition tape on everything if it didn’t cost so much so i use it on qtrs mostly and then use ez-edger on the rest. if i’m painting a qtr or a fender i will run my tape in the jamb put a piece of 6 inch on that then fold it back on the panel i’m painting then close the hood or deck lid and pull the paper on to them then run my plastic up to that. it saves me masking the jamb of the hood or decklid. ther are a million ways to mask and each person finds the tricks that work the best for them in a productive way..also with the transition tape u can’t pull it tight around corners or it will lift up just like when using the ez-edger. so that about ends my chapter in this novel i am writing.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=15733]
I would be interested in some tips on how others tape. This seems like a thread where everybody can pick up a few new tricks.[/quote]definitely
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