curing clear coats

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  • January 25, 2012 at 10:54 pm #35499

    Well as building a new booth i thought about converting to i/r paint drying

    any downsides to using shortwave i/r?

    also can you use longwave i/r?

    January 26, 2012 at 2:56 am #35501

    It wont be cheap

    January 27, 2012 at 11:24 am #35535

    If it is placed incorrectly (i.e. too close), you will obliterate plastic parts such as bumpers, mirrors etc.

    In my shop, we use natural gas. I like it because it delivers a consistent temperature throughout the entire booth.

    January 27, 2012 at 11:31 am #35537

    Hi

    we have a home made booth with decent air flow /filter in/out etc but i use a big space heater atm and as always i get dirt in jobs when this kicks up /..thats why i was thinking of i/r dryers ?

    dose baking clear help ? as i normally just air dry then flatten / polish next day …..any benifits to baking?

    thanks for the input guys

    January 27, 2012 at 2:31 pm #35539

    TOMMY

    Couple of things i/r is quite good, but expensive to run.
    You can see your electric meter speed up when you switch those suckers on.

    When you think about it your space heater is not that different to a booth burner.

    I have seen this done before space heater outside the booth and ducted in, and filtered
    should also be able to run the space heater on a thermostat.

    Well worth a thought, industrial ducting is not that expensive, you will have to cut a hole in the booth.

    Better if the heat is coming in from the top area, i would say

    January 27, 2012 at 10:26 pm #35545

    i done it that way in the old booth nick

    i could get normal temp in the room but i would never say it was baking temp and its a big ass diesel burner too!

    from what i understand its panel temp not the room temp ? i get the room to around 70-80 degrees c …

    i did think of ducting it through the inlet fan pushing it through the inlet filers but thought they may catch fire lol

    any input would be great

    January 27, 2012 at 11:18 pm #35547

    I did a couple of years in a makeshift booth with a space heater. It was propane rather than diesel, but still the same kinda thing.

    We had inlet filters in the doors at one end, with extract at the opposite end. We’d have the space heater inside the booth but pointed to fire across the inlet filters. That way the incoming air was warmed by the hot stuff from the heater, but the heater itself wasn’t pointing directly at the car so didn’t blow crap into it.

    Hope that makes sense. I’ll try and draw a picture if it doesn’t 🙂

    January 28, 2012 at 3:11 am #35556

    [quote=”turbo t” post=24884]i done it that way in the old booth nick

    i could get normal temp in the room but i would never say it was baking temp and its a big ass diesel burner too!

    from what i understand its panel temp not the room temp ? i get the room to around 70-80 degrees c …

    i did think of ducting it through the inlet fan pushing it through the inlet filers but thought they may catch fire lol

    any input would be great[/quote]

    [quotefrom what i understand its panel temp not the room temp ? i get the room to around 70-80 degrees c][/quote]

    Yes it is metal temp that cure’s the material

    If you are able to raise room temp to 70-80 celsius

    You are at bake temperture

    To get metal temp you need to be driving that temp through with a fan, keeping the hot air temp moving over the car will increase the metal temp quicker.

    Another way to lift the metal temp is to point your water base blowers at the car when the the temperture is up

    Sort acts like junair quad system but to a lesser degree.

    January 29, 2012 at 7:11 pm #35600

    I take it if i put industrial ducting up to the celing filers on the outside of the booth before the fan and had the heater pointed into the ducting would that work and have the fan dragging it through into the booth ?

    dose the burner heat come through the filters in a real booth?

    January 29, 2012 at 7:54 pm #35601

    Yes the heat generally comes through the inlet filters on a “real” spraybooth.

    Youe idea sounds good for when you are spraying, but not sure about the bake cycle. Most booths work by drawing fresh air in when on spray and heating it before it enters the actual booth before getting extracted outside. When on bake cycle they recirculate most of the air – drawing the warm air from inside the booth and heating it some more. The air goes round and round getting heated more and more each time which is how they get to such high cure temperatures. If you can work that bit out too you’re sorted 🙂

    Might be worth looking at something like this:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPRAY-BOOTH-GAS-BURNER-HEAT-EXCHANGER-DUCTING-BURNTWOODNO-1-/230734085591?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item35b8d2bdd7

    January 30, 2012 at 2:22 am #35611

    [IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/xr3iturbo/IMAG0152.jpg[/IMG]

    sorry about the pic lol

    this is the idea for re-cirulation of hot air for baking temps

    Notes:

    SPRAYING:

    Flap no1 will be closed during painting/clearing

    Fan no2 will be off during painting

    BAKING:

    Flap no1 open and fan no2 on flowing into ducting this will draw the heated air back up into the track where the fresh air is still being heated and re-circulating it through and through

    whats the thoughts guys?

    January 30, 2012 at 2:44 am #35612

    F I could afford it, I go with ir heat. Shot cures it from the inside out, & your done bakeing in 12 mins..
    We use propane in ours but don’t let any one fool you, u might get a certain twmp out but u will have cold spots in there. So when u bake u want to take a twmp reading at the heat source comeing in, & then at verious spots across the car. To see what the metal twmp is, then u cvan use the right clear, and position the car where it will bakke the best.

    September 4, 2012 at 2:10 am #38168

    Obviously different booths display differing efficiencies.

    So, with your particular booths guys, if you want a desired panel temperature of 60 degrees C, what do you set your bake temperature at? And how much extra time do you allow for:

    A. The booth to reach bake temperature
    B. The panel to reach bake temperature

    I set my booth at 65 degrees and allow 12 min total (over and above the required bake time) for booth temp and panel temp. Just curious to see what others are doing?

    Cheers,
    Sime

    September 6, 2012 at 11:24 am #38213

    Bueller?……..Anyone?………Anyone?

    [img]http://mikegwaltney.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Ferris-Bueller-Boring-Econ-Teacher.jpg[/img]

    September 6, 2012 at 8:46 pm #38218

    [quote=”Paintwerks” post=27308]Obviously different booths display differing efficiencies.

    So, with your particular booths guys, if you want a desired panel temperature of 60 degrees C, what do you set your bake temperature at? And how much extra time do you allow for:

    A. The booth to reach bake temperature
    B. The panel to reach bake temperature

    I set my booth at 65 degrees and allow 12 min total (over and above the required bake time) for booth temp and panel temp. Just curious to see what others are doing?

    Cheers,
    Sime[/quote]

    This is a pretty old topic…but you did ask a question 😛

    We set our booth to 160*F and bake for 25 minutes. Air temp reaches 160 in about 2 minutes. Panel temp reaches 140*F (about 60*C) in about 7-10 minutes and tends to stay close to that for the duration of the bake cycle. After cool down our parts are dry to the touch and ready to (gently) handle. We often install parts at this point. We use Sikkens Superior 250 clear.

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