Damaged lower fender, trying to to a spot repair
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They’re right about the molded on parts. Although there isn’t a whole lot of ways to put those on unfortunately like stated steel and fiberglass expand and contract differently. Andto be honest I have never not seen this methods not fail over a couple years. In the end the work ends up costing you more than full glass fenders would have.
And clear base/orientation coat is just base coat without color/tint added it’s used to fill sanding scratches so that the metallics don’t fill them.
[quote=”RatStang” post=17678]They’re right about the molded on parts. Although there isn’t a whole lot of ways to put those on unfortunately like stated steel and fiberglass expand and contract differently. Andto be honest I have never not seen this methods not fail over a couple years. In the end the work ends up costing you more than full glass fenders would have.[/quote]
That is completely true.
Something that might be a little better is to try flexible filler/adhesive (the stuff used on bumpers) instead of polyester filler. It will flex more and “might” be less worrisome.
Hi everyone; im new to the site . Norton makes an adhesive for bonding smc or fiberglass to steel. zero shrinkage; and sands great. Thats how i would attach the flare. As for painting, i would blend the door and completly clear both panels. If the fender and door are sanded and buffed and free of dirt nibs and scratches id scuff the panel with a gray scotchbrite and a little prep-sol. Scuff until the surface is dull and gloss free. Sand your primer with some 600 wet, and spray. I dont care for using a clear base since the metalilcs seem to stand on edge and leave a halo as you blend out your base. follow up with your clear and your done..:dnc
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