Dealing with rock chips

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  • April 23, 2014 at 4:37 pm #46427

    High fill primer will fill the little ones but you’re just as likely to end up with little dimples all over so then have to sand all that new primer off to get the surface level. Just as easy to sand it back before starting and not waste all that primer.

    April 23, 2014 at 4:59 pm #46429

    That’s what I usually do but this thing has rock chips all over it and didn’t want to sand all the way down in a hundred different spots all over the body and risk having waves in it.

    April 24, 2014 at 3:34 am #46434

    What I do probably isnt the “ideal” way to deal with chips, especially when it comes to corrosion protection. I usually just fill the bigger ones with glaze, sand the glaze flat, then put a couple of coats of a 2K primer over the whole panel. You will end up with dimples from the smaller ones, but once you sand the primer the whole panel will be nice and flat. The only time I really deal with real chipped up panels is with used parts. I have found this to be the fastest way to handle it. I don’t wanna deal with feathering each one out then blocking the whole panel. They just don’t give enough extra time on the used parts to make the whole process worth while.

    April 24, 2014 at 3:43 am #46435

    If it takes too long to feather out each chip and block it and your worried about being wavy strip it 😉

    April 25, 2014 at 12:39 am #46440

    I second the motion from Jayson :clappy :cheers

    April 25, 2014 at 11:52 am #46448

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=34980]If it takes too long to feather out each chip and block it and your worried about being wavy strip it ;)[/quote]

    If it’s bad I just strip it as sanding can be slow, boring, messy and time consuming especially on some modern factory paints they just eat discs!
    I usually be mindfull of edges and not getting it anywhere I don’t want it apply product then throw a plastic sheet over it to keep it wet and a lot of old paint sticks to sheet when you lift it of helping keep mess a little contained.

    On subject of paint stripper what do you guys use? I’m finding it harder to get a proper good quality product new laws are making it weaker and weaker.

    April 26, 2014 at 10:18 am #46473

    DA front end of hood straight across with 80, 180, 400. Shoot 2k primer and sand. Any rock chips that show up just use kombi putty and let air dry for 15 minutes. Then sand the kombi putty with 600 wet. Inspect primer area and whole hood for rock chips that were missed. Then if you want you can either shoot another coat of primer , sand and then shoot base then clear. If you hood has been previously painted then the paint might be pretty thick. If this is the case then make sure to pay attention to feather edges cause they might show up as minute craters after you shoot clear…

    April 26, 2014 at 8:32 pm #46475

    Kombi putty/lacquer spot putty is a bad idea,as soon as solvent from paint or primer hits the area it will sink and show a low spot.Mechanical or chemical strip is faster in the long run and the customer ends up with a quality repair.

    Anonymous
    April 27, 2014 at 12:48 am #46477

    I agree with what Jayson has been stating. If your going for a high end refinish you probably want to strip the panel, if it’s stone chipping excessively the odds are the underlying paint probably isn’t holding up properly. For freebees and old clunkers I wouldn’t hesitate to toss a bit of 2k putty into it and do a light spot prime. One isolated chip I would usually feather, prime, block.

    October 13, 2014 at 11:41 pm #47609

    Strip or feather, Prime and block for best results

    October 18, 2014 at 4:38 pm #47778

    To perfect finish can you do me a favour and please get yourself another avatar as that is mine and the image is of my work ,thanks Paul AKA ARTSPRAY

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