Denib procedures
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I am looking for some better alternatives to my current denib procedure. Currently we buzz the panel with 1500 da with an interface pad to help id the nib, then switch to 1000 da to level the imperfection then continue on with 1500/3000 buff. I have tried just spot sanding the nib and then polishing but have had it look like little dents down the side of the car on dark colored vehicle, and recently I tried the new 3m denib kit that comes with a little spot sander that takes 1000/1500 grit attachments, an air powered 3in da buffer and compounds. I liked the buffer, but the sander didn’t fully take out the nib as well as I would like without constantly changing out the sanding attachment. And I wasn’t real crazy about the price of these attachments. They run about a buck a piece. But I do like the fact that you can get the nib out without totally killing the texture around it, and the buffing seemed real nice cause it didn’t sling so much compound as traditional buffing/polishing and you don’t get the swirls. I work in a production shop, so I need something that can get them out the door and keep everyone happy. We are still using old cross flow booths so denibbing is a daily part of my life,but I would like to make it a little less part of my life. I haven’t worked in a bunch of shops so I am not familiar with how much time most shops spend buffing.
Thanks for any ideas/suggestions.
Chuck
I just use Meg. 2000 Uni-grit paper. bondo recommended it to me. its great.
I just use a 1” durablock and knock down the nib, and I am good to buff. That paper cuts like 1000 and leaves a 2k scratch. I don’t think anyone will really notice there is a smooth part.
If you are familiar with using a razorblade like a plane and shaving runs down it also works on dirt nibs.If you gently scrape the nibs until they are gone then use a 3″ orbital sander with 1500,then 2000,then polish the spots and out the door.Much faster than sanding by hand,I have used this technique many times when in a hurry.Here is a vid of old powerblock trucks host Mullet man Kevin tetz showing how to do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hi7LT0OBOisI will try the razor blade trick again, I have done it in the past but have had a hard time getting the rest of the scratch out from the blade. I think I used 1000 grit paper to sharpen the blade. I will try the 1500 or 2000 grit and see if it works any better for me. We mainly use pro air clear at the shop and I have noticed that with this clear it’s kind of funny about when it likes to be sanded/buffed. Seems to have kind of a waxy shell on it till you get it opened up, loads up the paper kind of quick. Might be just me though.
Nope not you,all sikkens clears have an anti slip agent on the surface of there clears.Try wiping the panel with a good waterborne/isoproplyl alcohol cleaner before you sand or polish,it makes life easier.
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