Die Back/ Haze
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Hello,
just wondering if you could help..
basically when we de-nib / wet sand few areas then compound ( foam pad/ g3 liquid) looks great and deep but then take customers car outside and wash up allways seems to dieback (dulls off in some places and you can see where wetsanded slightly, bit hazy)
i usally give quick compound again and seems to work and stays/holds up shine etc
Just wondering if this is normal and you all get this? i know alot of compounds etc have fillers in and make look good..
Any way i can avoid this? just takes time washing car then re- compounding etc
Keep up the good work on this forum :clappy
thanks Neil :stoned
ive had pretty good results with Farecla products so i think you may be sanding too course or using the compound incorrectly. try using a wool pad, moist, and refine your sand areas with 3000 grit if possible.
hmm all looks great tho until give a good wash :huh:
i usually finish in p1500 – p2000 area then buff. yeah havnt tryed a wool pad yet..:unsure:
Yup, I know exactly what you’re talking about, all I can really say is go with a coarser Compound on your first cut.
I personally like using Wools/synthetic Wools for my initial cut.
Seems to cut out 2000-2500 better then my coarse foams.
And it doesn’t produce as much heat as foams, so you don’t have to worry so much.defiantly start with wool … wool , with coarse cut compund will cut way more then a foam :weights wool leaves swirl marks though so you need to follow up with foam and swirl remover
ok thanks for your replys.. i will try a wool pad tommorrow, have got a few laying about..
How do you find the wool pad on the edges? like say coming up to a door edge etc, like with the foam you can go really close, never really tryed wool as looks like will be hard to go near edges etc and cant really tilt as backing plate solid too and dont want to dig in paint..
You mean 1 of these wool pads like in picture yeah?
Some people will wash the panel with alcohol between steps to see if there has been enough progress made.
Mix up some isopropyl alcohol and water in a 50/50 mix. Wipe over the area you buffed with it after compounding and it will show you if you are going to have scratches still. I will compound with wool the again with foam and it seems to take care of it.
I have had G3 do that to me before also. Look and see if you can find some Menzerna Powergloss. It works better than G3.
Those are Bonnets.
I don’t like using Bonnets. They don’t hold up very well. And the rubber Backer is a pita makes it only possible to use it completely flat. They’re not wound like the wool pads so they break apart too easy, It’s more of something you’d use for waxing IMO.I like Hard Backed Wool Pads. Like these. Just has a plastic Hook and Loop backing plate. and you just throw your Hook and loop buffer backing plate on it.
[img]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u79/chemicalGuys7/woolpad.jpg[/img]There are several manufactures, several different styles, and several different types of wools and synthetics.
Wool pads are very forgiving, you can buff up against a vertical edge without it screwing it up like a Foam would.
You can buff up to edges with a wool. but you have to use a little more caution then you would a foam. If the edge of the pad hits it you’ll be fine, but get to much catching the edge, and of course it will try to drag the buffer. But then again so will foam.
But just like with Foam all you have to do is learn to buff away from your edge, rather than against it.Both foam and Wool have their place. And I use both.
But Wool is definitely where the speed for initial cut is at.
Where as Foam is more for final cut and removing swirls.Ben and ryan got it right on. All compounds and polishes will fill scratches to some degree. Its just the lubricants in them. You have got to get that off the paint to really see what you got. When you wash the car your cleaning the paint and then you are seeing the real deal. Alcohol cleaners work well as said before. Many companies also makes a cleanup spray. Presta has one as well as 3m. Basically they are alcohol with other stuff in them to help clean. Water/alcohol base wax and grease removers work well also.
yup :stoned
Since I started using trizac 3000 wet I just use yellow foam for initial cut. On lighter colors I don’t even have to foam polish sometimes. :dnc
However… if I do use wool…(very rare), I like it out side cause I hate all the lint and fuzz it slings everywhere in the shop. 😉
all we do is hit with 1500, run over it with trizact 3000, use 3m rubbing compound, white foam pad, then finish with 3m perfect swirl remover, with blue pad.
Yep! had that same problem. I switched to Farcela Total and I dont get that hazy look anymore one the car is washed. I was using 3M compound with a white foam pad before.
[quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=14925]Yep! had that same problem. I switched to Farcela Total and I dont get that hazy look anymore one the car is washed. I was using 3M compound with a white foam pad before.[/quote]
I’m pretty sure he won’t have total in the UK. I think it’s a US only product. I like the Total also.
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