Die Back/ Haze
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[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=14927][quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=14925]Yep! had that same problem. I switched to Farcela Total and I dont get that hazy look anymore one the car is washed. I was using 3M compound with a white foam pad before.[/quote]
I’m pretty sure he won’t have total in the UK. I think it’s a US only product. I like the Total also.[/quote]
Are tou using the Total foam pad also? Im just using a 3m white and black pad. It seems to work ok. Just wondering if the farecla pad is better.
I had 3 farecla pads and wasn’t crazy about any of them. Too stiff for me. The self centering feature on them was pretty nice. I actually use Megs pads and compounds now with some Menzerna also. Still like Ultrafina too.
Ya we got that Farecla total dry use stuff here. Im sick of cutting and buffing whole bonnets and roofs 👿 Hopfully at the new shop im moving to i wont have to :rock
I used g3 liquid for years without incident.
I moved over to 3m and i prefer it, its all down to personal preference, farecla and 3m both do the job they are supposed to do.
Neil if you want some advice i will give you my method it works been doing it this way for years and years, we nib and polish around 10-15 cars per week without any die back
my motto
is once to take the flatting marks out
and once more to keep them away.
apply compound work on an area of around a foot square
apply compound and buff until compound is gone this is important as the compounds starts to break down this is when you are getting a good cut and the compound is breaking down to a glossifier.
I always go over each area twice two applications of compound buffed till there is no compound left, as i said above once to take the scratches out and once more to keep them away.
Keep buffing that compound till it’s gone, you should not really need your clean up cloth because the compound should be more or less completely gone.
After compounding clean up the area and a nice coat of wax.
Applying the compound twice might seem a little extra work, but that way you wont have anymore problems after washing.
You may also want to consider using p2500 wet and dry easier to buff than 2000
How soon after painting/baking are you denibbing and polishing? Even though most data sheets say you can polish within 2-3 hours after baking, you should leave the car to the next day before denibbing and polishing. I often give the car two bakes.
I used to use Total and G3, then went on to G6 and am now using a product called ‘Juice’ which I am told is rebadged/private label Menzerna. I like it a lot, and am using an orange foam pad with it.
Farecla sent out a bulletin earlier this year that suggested you need to wait at least two hours after denibbing [i]before [/i]you start any compounding. The clear is still de-gassing and this is why it goes hazy after polishing if you do it right away. If it’s cold, you should wait even longer. You could denib the same day the car was painted, and then compound and polish the next day.
Also, I never apply any wax to fresh paint. It will seal the clear and not allow it to properly degas. PPG also suggest in their product handbook that you don’t apply any wax until 90 days have passed. I think that’s a little extreme, but I recommend to my customers to wait at least 30 days before waxing.
YMMV.
it seem to me you are cut and BUFFING the same day you are clear coating.After you clear coat and bake and take it out the oven.Its best leave it 4 a day then polish it.
[quote=”PAINTPOT” post=15109]it seem to me you are cut and BUFFING the same day you are clear coating.After you clear coat and bake and take it out the oven.Its best leave it 4 a day then polish it.[/quote]
Uhhhh……that’s exactly what I wrote in my post above! 😉
Sorry i should of read your piece
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