Disposable cup systems
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Looking for input on good and bad in regards to the best systems out there.We are old school at the shop,we have the sata rps cups just for waterborne but use metal pots for sealer,single stage,clear.We have a big solvent tank the we clean our guns and cans in plus a waterborne gun cleaner.So we are thinking about getting a good solvent gunwasher plus recycler(other one is close to worn out) and a disposable cup system for everything.I like the pps system with the liners and hard cup but wonder about storage,and the fan getting narrower when you are close to out of paint?How close in price are the sata and 3m and the devilbiss gunner cups look interesting.Thanks for the info….
Hey J,
You have the best cups already in my opinion.Wait…..I would say that’s a fact! The D cups and the 3m both are set up an act similar.Except with Sata’s guns the D cups want you to install brass fittings that press inside the fluid passage.There permanent once you do this and then you can only use the D cups with that gun. Unless they changed the D cups recently. I know you love your Sata’s J so I don’t think you want to destroy them.They work with a adapter like the 3m disposable cups do on all other guns. As far price? D cups where way cheaper than 3m or Sata.3m just a little cheaper than Sata cups. I’m getting all sizes of Sata cups for under 100 $ U.S.right around 90$ you seem to get everything cheaper so I don’t see why your not using all Sata cups now.Save material some where else. Just my opinion. I thought you guys new what it was all a boot. HA…HA.. Talk to you later man. ; )I haven’t used the sata cups but I prefer the dkups over the 3m ones . They have a better way of connecting their lids to their adaptor .Much more secure imo. You can get the fitting out of your sata gun with a bolt and spacer they provide and it doesn’t damage your gun. Also the outer cups are easier to clean since they don’t have a bottom. The only thing I don’t like about them is that the liners don’t stand up for temporary storage as well as the 3m. That being said I am currently using the 3m cups because I just switched jobs and work along side another painter who dosen’t do change very well.
i guess I should post every little detail before someone comes back and says a contradicting statement. In my experience with the brass fittings and the d cups. The brass insert fudged up two Sata 3000’s, defects such as chip fluid passages and nicking the chrome. this in returned caused more flaking of the chrome. So if they changed the removal tool or the process then good for them. But my experience with the brass fitting is not a good one .Also the tool to remove the fitting is simple to use and can not be used wrong, except that your gun body or mine…..were fudged up. So……I Wouldn’t take the chance. I can post silly pics if I have too but I think the point is mute.
X2 on the SATA cups, what a mess I made, haha. I have only used a couple of the SATA cups that came with a gun I bought so I never really got a good feel for them and they aren’t reddily available to me so I can’t give an opinion.
I have been using the old Norton liners my jobber had stocked up on but now they are all out and Norton doesn’t make them any more because 3M supposedly sued them because of there similar design. Don’t bother with the new Norton liners because they suck, they have a stupid rubber and a spring in them that disturbs paint flow and suction and causes the gun to spit.
We’re now using the 3M PPS system, I think they are ok, they fit on the POS accuspray, (on my third gun) been using them now for about 6 months. Storage isn’t a concern for me being I don’t store paint , I only mix what I need and toss the liner in the trash, I only use them for base, I’m like you Jay I use metal pots for sealer and clear, only complaint I have they I don’t even know is valid is I suspect if I leave paint in the liner while attached to the gun when I’m drying it with the blowers I think paint bits may soak through the liner screen (yes I’m using the 125 micron) But I’m not sure.
Gun washer is a good idea, probably the best move I’ve made when it come to house cleaning in the booth, it’s so easy compared to manually cleaning the guns and does save on time and gun wash big time, I bought the UNI Ram UG 5000W solvent and waterborne double unit. Hope this helpsThank you for all the replies,very good feedback.When you work in a big production shop using 3 different guns per job(sealer base clear) doing even 5 jobs a day I clean guns +cans 15 times a day.I’m getting a little tired of it :deadhorse We have the sata cups already so we might just get the 190 micron filters and keep everything the same.But the 3m system is a bit cheaper so maybe we will go that route for sealer and clear.
Thanks for the feedback Bad,the gunner cups looked interesting but not if you run the chance of fukin up your gun.I also heard sata told devilbiss to cease making them as they are a rip off of the sata cups.Anyway we will see what happens.
Why are you guys using the metal cups for sealer and clear?
Feeling the screen in the pps cups are too restrictive?[quote=”hating-painting” post=36805]Why are you guys using the metal cups for sealer and clear?
Feeling the screen in the pps cups are too restrictive?[/quote]
The other painter seems to think that we will save money that way 😛 But if you add up the labor per cleaning session and the solvent I’m sure its cheaper in the long run.I have also heard the liner systems can restrict flow somewhat and when you are close to being empty the vacuum will suck crap through the filter.Any truth to this???
Stick with the RPS cups. They do not restrict flow and you get a clean cup for every use.
You can use the 125 micron strainers for sealer, base and clear. You only need the 190 for primer. I always use 190 micron for all BTLV also.
[quote=”hating-painting” post=36805]Why are you guys using the metal cups for sealer and clear?
Feeling the screen in the pps cups are too restrictive?[/quote]For my situation it’s cheaper, comes down to cost.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=36806][quote=”hating-painting” post=36805]Why are you guys using the metal cups for sealer and clear?
Feeling the screen in the pps cups are too restrictive?[/quote]
The other painter seems to think that we will save money that way 😛 But if you add up the labor per cleaning session and the solvent I’m sure its cheaper in the long run.I have also heard the liner systems can restrict flow somewhat and when you are close to being empty the vacuum will suck crap through the filter.Any truth to this???[/quote]
This theory certainly sounds legit to me
[quote=”ryan999″ post=36807]Stick with the RPS cups. They do not restrict flow and you get a clean cup for every use.
You can use the 125 micron strainers for sealer, base and clear. You only need the 190 for primer. I always use 190 micron for all BTLV also.[/quote
Really depends what paint system and strainers one is using, The PPG waterborne recommends 125 strainers with solvent glue on the screen, and the 190’s are for solvent that has waterborne glue on them.
[quote=”ryan999″ post=36807]Stick with the RPS cups. They do not restrict flow and you get a clean cup for every use.
You can use the 125 micron strainers for sealer, base and clear. You only need the 190 for primer. I always use 190 micron for all BTLV also.[/quote]
Really depends what paint system and strainers one is using, The PPG waterborne recommends 125 strainers with solvent glue on the screen, and the 190’s are for solvent that has waterborne glue on them, maybe Akzo isn’t like this , I’m just clarifying so no one gets confused.
[quote=”smooth” post=36820][quote=”hating-painting” post=36805]Why are you guys using the metal cups for sealer and clear?
Feeling the screen in the pps cups are too restrictive?[/quote]For my situation it’s cheaper, comes down to cost.[/quote]
Actually its not,think about the labour per 1 gun cleaning session and the solvent.Or you fill a disposable cup then throw it out when your done.The disposable cups are cheaper in the long run,add up how many sessions per day,week,year and the disposable systems are cheaper.
[quote=”smooth” post=36823][quote=”ryan999″ post=36807]Stick with the RPS cups. They do not restrict flow and you get a clean cup for every use.
You can use the 125 micron strainers for sealer, base and clear. You only need the 190 for primer. I always use 190 micron for all BTLV also.[/quote]
Really depends what paint system and strainers one is using, The PPG waterborne recommends 125 strainers with solvent glue on the screen, and the 190’s are for solvent that has waterborne glue on them, maybe Akzo isn’t like this , I’m just clarifying so no one gets confused.[/quote]
Are you talking about the paper strainers?There is no point in using them as all cup systems come with the strainers you put in the cup.Akzo does recommend 125 for for WB but its not a big deal to use them with sealer or clear,it will just strain out smaller chunks of crap.Basf suggests 190 for WB so again like you said it depends on the system used.
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