Does anyone have any tips or tricks?
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OK so my first adventure with waterborne paint is with Onyx HD. I havent had too much trouble with the transition from solvent to water. However….I would like to know if anyone has any suggestions or whatever on the Onyx line. I think that the directions that are supplied by BASF are possibly wrong. I have experimented a little with it, but I don’t want to create a catastrophe. So if anyone has some suggestions or whatever to help an old painter make the transition a little smoother….it would be appreciated! Thanks in advance….. :stoned
Now its a waterborne not water based so its not cut and dry water, keep that in mind.
As far as what they say goes… don’t mix the hardener in the basecoat unless you absolutely need it, it makes any basecoat repair hard (not impossibly just tricky) use 2000 grit for any standard basecoat repairs…I use a 3000 1.5 hvlp at 28-30 PSI….get a #4 ford viscosity cup to make sure the reduction with hb020/040 is properly done I’ve had it a few times that a mix off of smarttrak was a tad too thick making it troublesome to spray before I ordered in my viscosity cup. Use a wet bed for blends it helps for silvers and golds but you can get away without using it…I put it down for just about any blend…you can use the wet bed to check a blend before clear just don’t load it onto the edge of the panel near the original panel. Put the wet bed on and blend over top immediately, orientation coats seem to be fine without it though. first coat of base wet (never had a run)…second coat medium wet and then your drop coat (if you got your coverage most colours thats enough). Not really any major issues on colour matching.
Mike K
Well that seems to be the process we are using. I will invest in the viscosity cup. I have not used a wet bed with this paint yet. I believe it would be blender pro that I saw kicking around the mixing room. I think one of our problems is the 1.3 tip thats in our Sata. I’ll try the new tip and air cap, and see where it takes me from there.
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