Eating my words – SATA convert
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Some of you will know that I’m a bit of an Iwata fanboy, but recently I’ve been having big problems getting my base to lay down nice.
Ever since DeBeer introduced their range of high strength tinters (creating the new 900+ line) I just can’t get to grips with it. The silvers in particular. Sure I can get them looking reasonable eventually, but I’m having to mess around putting on an extra single light coat at an increased distance to try and even out the mottling. This is using an Iwata W400WBX 1.3. At first I just thought it was just my gun in need of a well overdue service, but I tried a brand new version of the same gun, and even a brand new WS400 Supernova base gun, and neither was much better.
I spoke to my DeBeer rep and he said others were having similar difficulties.
Then we had a new guy start at work and I noticed a beat up old SATA NR in his tool box. Worn out air cap, fluid nozzle with chunks out of it, but I figured I might as well give it a go. It beat my Iwata hands down! Even the brand new guns I had tried!
After ringing around a few of the tech guys I know one came up with a virtually unused NR2000 HVLP 1.3 for me to try. After the first few jobs I was sold. I found I could almost throw the base on any old how, and even though it looked shocking when wet (as some WB does) it dried perfectly flat and even. Not a hint of the patchy blotchy mottled mess I was dealing with before.
Sure it’s slightly slower applying the material than my Iwata, but it saves time in the long run as I can just shoot and forget about it. Seems to be using a touch less paint too, but that may just be because I’m not having to keep going over and over to even up the metallics.
So I might have to see what SATA has on the market currently, although to be honest I’m more than happy with this NR for now as it’s a huge leap forward from my Iwata.
Still sticking with my WS400 for clear though. I’ve tried out a few different guns lately including a 4000 RP, but none offer anything major over what I have, although I’ll probably be upgrading the fluid nozzle to the 1.3HD version as it kicks out a little more material which will save a bit of time on the big stuff, without noticeably affecting the finish.
So there you go, who’d have thought it? Andy giving out some SATA love 😆
Welcome to the dark side 👿
Good for you Andy,I don’t thinkl you could find a nicer base coat gun than an NR 2000,they still work pretty good.
Yes andy i to had problems with laying out silvers on boot lids and bonnets. Great clear guns they are but sata is king for base im using a sata 4000 1.3 have for a while. And man what a diffrence lays the base beutiful also puts a nice coat of clear on to!!
I just recently got myself a sata 1000 rp 1.3 setup just for clear, and wow what a difference. The quality is what makes sata stand out from the rest.
It’s about damn time Andy! 😛
I have very good luck with the Devilbiss Teknas for waterborne basecoat. It’s comparable to the GTI Pro over on your side of the pond.
Yes, I know I’ve been a bit slow to catch on 😆
At first I was disappointed to see that it wasn’t a digital, but to be honest it feels more balanced in my hand with a regulator / air valve stuck on the bottom, especially with a full PPS pot on top, so I think I’ll be sticking with it for a while.
I haven’t used it on a really big job yet but yesterday I did the side and two bumper covers on one of these in the same light gold colour, and it turned out better than anything I’ve done for a while
[img]http://motoburg.com/images/suzuki-grand-vitara-16-jlx-02.jpg[/img]
And of course because I’m not messing around with semi dry coats the base lays flatter too, meaning the clears flows better on top too. Win win :cheer:
Thats great Andy glad its working out for you 😉 Now you need to try a first gen RP that came out the same time as the NR 2000,I bet you wouldn’t mess with your iwatas anymore :p
Were still using first generation rp’s and nr2000’s at work.
They dont do it for me but the old man loves them and wont change until rebuild kits are no longer available!
Interesting. I never demo with Sata anymore. I find the Iwata and Tekna to be my choice.
Complete noob here and really have no business posting amongst the experienced guys.
this is what i use and had no issues apart from my gun filter causing the Tekna problems, but this was resolved by removing the gun filter and adding another fine particle filter upstream.CAT Techline CPR cap for base/metallics
Tekna Coppper for clearboth appear to give great results, but i have nothing to compare with.
Well if your Sata uses less material, why don’t you lower the material in the Iwata. I shoot silver like a normal base colour but I lower fluid, pressure and add extra reducer, then for good measure I try to shoot cross ways on hoods. I don’t know if you were talking about solvent or not but maybe this explains something. But I mean whatever fuck it. New Sata for base and new Iwata for clear sounds sexy.
[quote=”pierceg” post=27531]Well if your Sata uses less material, why don’t you lower the material in the Iwata. [/quote]
I tried that, but all it did was slow the gun down really. It still didn’t give the same results as the SATA 🙂
Oh well maybe it’s the distance, or maybe overlap, who knows. I used a new Sata twice for base and clear and I sort of felt that the supernova made a finer spray, I’m sure it’s impossible to tell but that made me think that I want another supernova for base. But if you say the Sata is obviously less finicky than maybe that’s the way to do it. I use a Sagola clear gun for base but I don’t want to buy a new cap because it’ll cost me as much as the gun.
With the amount of cars Andy paints in a week I would say he has had plenty of time to dial in any gun. 😉
Plus I love hearing Andy say he likes a Sata better :p
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