Eaton Compressor
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So I bought a Eaton 5hp 2 Stage Single Phase 80 Gal. Compressor I will post here my dislikes and likes and do a general review of the unit here are a couple pics
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/Comp1.jpg[/IMG]
And in the truck
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/Comp2.jpg[/IMG]
Now I need to figure out how to get it out of the truckMarch 29, 2011 at 9:19 pm #29907i have a 7.5hp 2stage myself. going on 4 years now. its a great unit, built really heavy. only complaint i have on it is the plumbing. all the ball valves, etc are really cheap low quality. that is easy to fix though. i also have one of their ref air dryers. great unit as well and a hell of a lot cheaper than most. needed and electronic timed auto drain though just like on the compressor. those bowl types suck.
March 30, 2011 at 12:16 am #29911Look at that texture on that tank. wonder if bondo painted it :rofl :rofl
March 30, 2011 at 2:04 am #29914I’ve had this 10hp single phase unit for around 5 years now. Got the 15hp pump that’s been slowed down with a pulley change and a 120gal. tank. Replacing the ball valve was the first thing I did.
The unit hasn’t exactly been trouble free. I thought it would ship with a WEG motor when I purchased it. It ended up coming with a Chinese made eaton branded motor. I had some issues with it not wanting to start and eaton sent me a new motor within the first week I owned it, that motor did ok until about a month before the warranty ran out. At that time I had a starting capacitor blow on the thing. By this time Eaton had swithced from this motor to a usa made Baldor motor on units this size. They sent me one of those as a replacement under warranty. All I did was pay the shipping on it. I ended up taking a starting cap out of the first motor that sucked and have been using that cobbled together china made motor. Saving the baldor motor for when the thing dies again.
Soooo…… I’m not 100% happy with the purchase, but really can’t ask for any better customer service. If I had it to do over again I’d buy a 7.5hp single phase unit.
[IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c297/bloverby/eaton6.jpg[/IMG]
March 30, 2011 at 2:20 am #29915I’ll stick with my curtis masterline :p
O by the way… mine bigger than yours :whistle: :rofl :rofl[IMG]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll186/paintbyding/MVC-166S.jpg[/IMG]
I hate to tell you this Ding, but Blove’s puts out nearly identical CFM as yours. 😛
Just makes you look like you’re trying to compensate with the bigger size. 😆I got the Eaton 4 Cylinder 2 Stage 10 Horse pump, Had some issues with the cheap fittings on it. And I haven’t had an extreme amount of luck with the Bullwhip Throttle Control.
It’s been awhile since I ran it because it’s Gas powered, (No Phase Converter yet) but other than I noticed a small oil leak the other day, I haven’t had any issue with the pump itself yet.OK here is an update on what I got so far
Finally got in in the garage to get a good look at it
First thing I did was replace that ball valve, Second I took the cover off the Pressure Switch and saw that you could not get a liguidtight fitting in it if you wanted to so I took it apart and turned it upside down so the fittings were on top (much better) pics below , K that being done I start looking at the compressor sizing it up
1. Ball valve not 3/4″ WTF!
2. Pressure switch almost impossible to wire up correctly
3. PVC Fitting on the motor = OMG! WTF! (WHO DOES THIS?)pics below
4. They peeled of the K&N sticker off the air filter(sigh)
5. Street elbow that goes to pressure switch was very loose(turned in two threads) again WTF!
6. Numerous Runs and flaws in the paint
7. Very cheap Pressure switchSo I paid $1,683.00 for this unit Shipped.
….. And I just dont see where the money is, (My hopes were high that it was going to be the Compressor of my Dreams) Boy were those hopes smashed, kicked and left for dead!Oh and thats what I got so far, And its still on the skid( like everyone elses I see) I need to run the 8/2 wire yet and some conduit, Maybe by Thursday I will be able to start it
at this point if it turns over will be a plus. (Not getting my hopes up again).And now on with the show :pcorn:
Pressure switch before
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/PressSwitch.jpg[/IMG]
Pressure switch after
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/ImprovedSwitch.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/RearView.jpg[/IMG]
Motor Connections
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/BADcon22.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/BADcon21.jpg[/IMG]
Pump
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/Eaton2Stage.jpg[/IMG]
Motor
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/WEG5HPMOTOR.jpg[/IMG]
Missing Sticker
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/AirFilter.jpg[/IMG]
As it sits currently
[IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/InGarage.jpg[/IMG]March 30, 2011 at 10:15 am #29931I have heard mixed things about them, but I’d rather have a good pump and motor for cheap and deal with the other crap myself. I always thought one of these would be my dream compressor too!
Wait a minute now…
Think we got some extremely high expectations here.Yeah the tiny inner diameter ball valves doesn’t make much sense. Why create an un necessary restriction.
Most people don’t run ball valves right off their compressor anyways. It being there is a convenience at most. Chances are you’ll never use it… Your compressor doesn’t have near the capability to produce any amount of volume that fitting won’t flow anyways.
(When I’m Sand Blasting, And I run my Compressors I’m producing Right around 60 CFM at 125 PSI. and I can overwhelm that much Air Volume Plus Storage through a 1/4″ Blasting Tip.)
(In fact if I remember correctly, you can put nearly 100 Cubic feet of air per minute through a 1/4 inch opening at 120 PSI)I haven’t seen a decent pressure switch yet tbh. They’re all crap.
The best I’ve seen was on a BelAire Compressor. Externally It was all metal, but at the same time the internals were cheap ass Plastic switches to. (So I still wouldn’t call it great.)The pvc fitting actually isn’t a bad thing. On high vibration parts metal conduit tends to fuck shit up.
Removed sticker? Seriously? Who cares.
Flaws in the paint? It’s a damn air compressor. Only reason it’s painted at all is oxidation protection. Nothing else. Go look at any industrial equipment and find me any with decent paint (trust me you won’t)
a good paint job on a tractor is one that is thoroughly painted. It’s about durability. Not how pretty it is.And 1600 is nowhere near an expensive compressor. (Quite a bit of that was probably shipping to boot.)
To be honest you probably won’t find MANY if ANY below that cost with similar ratings. Hell that’s probably more in the lines of a damn cheap compressor as far as cost goes.
Look at dings. I’ll bet he paid at least 5 for his…
Hell I’ll bet you a single pump replacement on Dings cost more then you paid for your whole setup. When I looked locally for a Pump, a new Ingersoll-Rand Pump (Rating for 7.5 HP) The Bare Pump alone was nearly $1600.They’re not cheap tools. The real question is how do they last.
For the most part they’re good investments. Most shops on here have been running the same compressors for 20-30 years with little issue.
Hell I know some farm guys running 1950’s air compressors to this day with litte more than fixing rust holes in the tank.i bought a 7.5 hp, pump a little less then 2 years ago and what started off as a minor oil leaked, grew so large that all the oil leaked out and it was too late to do anything about it. pump ran pretty decent up to that point.
first thing i did when i hooked it up was remove the air filter assembly which in my opinion is way too small of an opening and installed 1.5” pvc fittings and piping to a custom made air filter assembly (taken from an old car) located outside the shop. this way, the filter never clogs, and the air is always clean.
pressure relief valves were the first things that failed so i bought a couple of good replacement ones from granger.
i noticed the compressor would run excessively hot so i replaced the oil the first day.
the PVC is a bad thing because its not the right connector for the type of conduit used (like putting wood screw in a body panel) it should of had a straight liguid tight fittting. (this is non metallic conduit)
I guess we should not worry about paint nibs or runs in the paint on our cars because there just driven on the road anyways and theres a chance of getting into an accident( point is if if you have a product wouldn’t you want it to look its best?)
and im sorry you didn’t get the joke about the K&N sticker (I would thing K & N would of given that one away )
shipping was $208.00 Comp was $1475.00 was the best deal I could find with ratings I could deal with 19CFM @ 100PSI (the price is $1550.00 now on there site)
I havent put it out to the curb yet
I just expected a much higher quality product from all the stuff they have posted on the site. Again this is my review and am telling you all what I Think about it as I find it.(so you know what to expect if you buy one of these units)
So I hooked it up and ran it from empty to 150psi took 8min
Then I hooked a SATA 3000 RP to it and no problems, Comp didnt even know it was there,
so then I got out my Compressor Killer AKA Snapon 7″ Angle polisher Muhhaaahaha and ……… Comp tried to defeat it but lost out. Pulled it right down (Bummer) the polisher says it only uses 15cfm @ 90 PSI and comp was to put out 19 CFM @ 100.I will have to see if I can find out the actual CFM Usage of this polisher (yes it is old)
was going to get an electric buffer anyway.
all in all it was better than what I had and its as loud as any normal air comp.
so what did I learn :teach
1. Dont expect nice things
2. $1700.00 is considered a cheap compressor
3. Pneumatic Angle Polisher is not the way to go
4. Go Big
5. Where Theres a Will, Theres a Relative- AuthorPosts
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