Eaton Compressor

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  • March 31, 2011 at 7:37 pm #29973

    :agree I bought the biggest Compressor I could afford it is 100 times nicer than my old craftsman 1.6hp 33 gal and for a one man show in the back yard this one will do the job.

    Im still happy with my purchase dont get me wrong
    But if everything takes off I will need to buy a different compressor(or a second one)

    April 6, 2011 at 8:26 am #30159

    Ok here is an Amp draw from 0PSI to 120PSI then the Comp Unloads, Then I close the unloader and it goes from 120PSI to 150PSI and shuts off total time is around 6 min as you can see at the bottom of the Graph. Again this is an 80 gallon tank

    Startup Amps were 53
    Running amps loaded was between 24-27 (while loaded Amp draw Raises as Pressure Rises ) <- well duh right lol

    All Tests were done with A FLUKE 289 True RMS Multimeter and a FLUKE i400 AC Amp Clamp (Just in case you can't figure out why the side thats for the Amps is actually in Vac, thats how it is get over it)

    I still havent done any tool tests as for running time but I will get there.

    [IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/PolarAirAmpDraw.jpg[/IMG]

    April 6, 2011 at 10:03 am #30161

    since my eaton 7.5 went bad and it is still under warrenty; they agreed to ship me a new pump and all i have to pay them is shipping. ill try and post pics up of how i plumb the intake as soon as i get the new pump.

    April 11, 2011 at 10:33 am #30277

    [quote=”Wydir” post=19873]Ok here is an Amp draw from 0PSI to 120PSI then the Comp Unloads, Then I close the unloader and it goes from 120PSI to 150PSI and shuts off total time is around 6 min as you can see at the bottom of the Graph. Again this is an 80 gallon tank

    Startup Amps were 53
    Running amps loaded was between 24-27 (while loaded Amp draw Raises as Pressure Rises ) <- well duh right lol

    All Tests were done with A FLUKE 289 True RMS Multimeter and a FLUKE i400 AC Amp Clamp (Just in case you can't figure out why the side thats for the Amps is actually in Vac, thats how it is get over it)

    I still havent done any tool tests as for running time but I will get there.

    [IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/PolarAirAmpDraw.jpg[/IMG][/quote]

    They have a feature where the larger motors have variable rpm based on load. Do you know any more about that?

    April 11, 2011 at 11:14 am #30278

    [quote=”Wydir” post=19676]So I hooked it up and ran it from empty to 150psi took 8min
    Then I hooked a SATA 3000 RP to it and no problems, Comp didnt even know it was there,
    so then I got out my Compressor Killer AKA Snapon 7″ Angle polisher Muhhaaahaha and ……… Comp tried to defeat it but lost out. Pulled it right down (Bummer) the polisher says it only uses 15cfm @ 90 PSI and comp was to put out 19 CFM @ 100.

    I will have to see if I can find out the actual CFM Usage of this polisher (yes it is old)

    was going to get an electric buffer anyway.

    all in all it was better than what I had and its as loud as any normal air comp.

    so what did I learn :teach

    1. Dont expect nice things
    2. $1700.00 is considered a cheap compressor
    3. Pneumatic Angle Polisher is not the way to go
    4. Go Big
    5. Where Theres a Will, Theres a Relative[/quote]

    All air polishers always seem to be the same, they claim to use low cfm but they can always draw down a compressor pretty damn quick, an air grinder using a flap disc will draw it down just as quick.

    In the past i have looked at compressors, and said right that one on paper will supposedly do the job.

    Then i pick model a couple of steps up.

    And yes $1500 is very cheap for a compressor, but that said you guy’s can buy levi jeans for under $40.00 and we can pay $90.00 lol

    some rating explanations as found below

    [b]CFM[/b] (Cubic Feet per Minute) is the imperial method of describing the volume flow rate of compressed air. It must be defined further to take account of pressure, temperature and relative humidity – see below.

    [b]ICFM[/b] (Inlet CFM) rating is used to measure air flow in CFM (ft3/min) as it enters the air compressor intake .

    [b]ACFM[/b] (Actual CFM) rating is used to measure air flow in CFM at some reference point at local conditions. This is the actual volume flow rate in the pipework after the compressor.

    [b]FAD[/b] (Free Air Delivery) (f.a.d) is the actual quantity of compressed air at the discharge of the compressor. The units for FAD are CFM in the imperial system and l/min in the SI system. The units are measured according the ambient inlet standard conditions ISO 1217 – 1 bar abs and 20oC.
    1 m3/min (f.a.d) = 1000 liter/min (f.a.d) = 1000 dm3/min (f.a.d) = 16.7 l/s (f.a.d) = 16.7 dm3/s (f.a.d) = 35.26 ft3/min (f.a.d)

    [b]ANR[/b] (Atmosphere Normale de Reference) is quantity of air at conditions 1.01325 bar absolute, 20oC and 65% RH (Relative Humidity).

    SCFM (Standard CFM) is the flow in CFM measured at some reference point but converted back to standard or normal air conditions (Standard Reference Atmosphere) 14.4 psia, 80oF and 60% RH (Relative Humidity).

    [b]nl/min[/b] is the flow in l/min measured at some reference point but converted to standard or normal air conditions 1.01325 bar absolute, 0oC and 0% RH (Relative Humidity).

    [b]ISO 1217[/b]
    standard reference ambient conditions – temperature 20oC, pressure 1 bar abs, relative humidity 0%, cooling air/water 20oC, and working pressure at outlet 7 bar absolute.

    April 11, 2011 at 7:34 pm #30281

    [quote=”bobwires” post=19975][quote=”Wydir” post=19873]Ok here is an Amp draw from 0PSI to 120PSI then the Comp Unloads, Then I close the unloader and it goes from 120PSI to 150PSI and shuts off total time is around 6 min as you can see at the bottom of the Graph. Again this is an 80 gallon tank

    Startup Amps were 53
    Running amps loaded was between 24-27 (while loaded Amp draw Raises as Pressure Rises ) <- well duh right lol

    All Tests were done with A FLUKE 289 True RMS Multimeter and a FLUKE i400 AC Amp Clamp (Just in case you can't figure out why the side thats for the Amps is actually in Vac, thats how it is get over it)

    I still havent done any tool tests as for running time but I will get there.

    [IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/PolarAirAmpDraw.jpg[/IMG][/quote]

    They have a feature where the larger motors have variable rpm based on load. Do you know any more about that?[/quote]

    All the Compressors that have a VFD on them are Rotary Screw Compressors we have these at work its a 200 hp two stage rotary screw this comp was around $164,000 output claim is 894CFM @ 125PSI

    [IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/IMG00086-20100919-1449.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/Dwydir/IMG00137-20101006-1829.jpg[/IMG]

    April 11, 2011 at 7:54 pm #30282

    [quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=19976][quote=”Wydir” post=19676]So I hooked it up and ran it from empty to 150psi took 8min
    Then I hooked a SATA 3000 RP to it and no problems, Comp didnt even know it was there,
    so then I got out my Compressor Killer AKA Snapon 7″ Angle polisher Muhhaaahaha and ……… Comp tried to defeat it but lost out. Pulled it right down (Bummer) the polisher says it only uses 15cfm @ 90 PSI and comp was to put out 19 CFM @ 100.

    I will have to see if I can find out the actual CFM Usage of this polisher (yes it is old)

    was going to get an electric buffer anyway.

    all in all it was better than what I had and its as loud as any normal air comp.

    so what did I learn :teach

    1. Dont expect nice things
    2. $1700.00 is considered a cheap compressor
    3. Pneumatic Angle Polisher is not the way to go
    4. Go Big
    5. Where Theres a Will, Theres a Relative[/quote]

    All air polishers always seem to be the same, they claim to use low cfm but they can always draw down a compressor pretty damn quick, an air grinder using a flap disc will draw it down just as quick.

    In the past i have looked at compressors, and said right that one on paper will supposedly do the job.

    Then i pick model a couple of steps up.

    And yes $1500 is very cheap for a compressor, but that said you guy’s can buy levi jeans for under $40.00 and we can pay $90.00 lol

    some rating explanations as found below

    [b]CFM[/b] (Cubic Feet per Minute) is the imperial method of describing the volume flow rate of compressed air. It must be defined further to take account of pressure, temperature and relative humidity – see below.

    [b]ICFM[/b] (Inlet CFM) rating is used to measure air flow in CFM (ft3/min) as it enters the air compressor intake .

    [b]ACFM[/b] (Actual CFM) rating is used to measure air flow in CFM at some reference point at local conditions. This is the actual volume flow rate in the pipework after the compressor.

    [b]FAD[/b] (Free Air Delivery) (f.a.d) is the actual quantity of compressed air at the discharge of the compressor. The units for FAD are CFM in the imperial system and l/min in the SI system. The units are measured according the ambient inlet standard conditions ISO 1217 – 1 bar abs and 20oC.
    1 m3/min (f.a.d) = 1000 liter/min (f.a.d) = 1000 dm3/min (f.a.d) = 16.7 l/s (f.a.d) = 16.7 dm3/s (f.a.d) = 35.26 ft3/min (f.a.d)

    [b]ANR[/b] (Atmosphere Normale de Reference) is quantity of air at conditions 1.01325 bar absolute, 20oC and 65% RH (Relative Humidity).

    SCFM (Standard CFM) is the flow in CFM measured at some reference point but converted back to standard or normal air conditions (Standard Reference Atmosphere) 14.4 psia, 80oF and 60% RH (Relative Humidity).

    [b]nl/min[/b] is the flow in l/min measured at some reference point but converted to standard or normal air conditions 1.01325 bar absolute, 0oC and 0% RH (Relative Humidity).

    [b]ISO 1217[/b]
    standard reference ambient conditions – temperature 20oC, pressure 1 bar abs, relative humidity 0%, cooling air/water 20oC, and working pressure at outlet 7 bar absolute.[/quote]

    In hind sight I should of bought This Comp instead was 1k more http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/504747/6980263.htm
    and has the rating to run my polisher full out but like I said I will get a electric polisher and it will be fine for me for a few years then I can upgrade to the 10hp.

    April 12, 2011 at 7:03 am #30285

    Ha, yeah you never hear someone say “well i think i have too much air. Should have bought smaller”

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