energy pro 250
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for you sikkens guys. my neighbor dropped off a gallon setup of this clear for me to try out. said its basically their air dry clear and more of a production clear than the superior. before i give this a whirl on something is there anything i should be aware of or look out for? certain tips or technique?
It is a fast clear,not real nice to spray with it’s dedicated hardener.If you use superior 250 hardener instead it improves sprayability.I would never use it for a complete,the biggest I would use it for would be a complete side with slow reducer,any bigger and you are screwed.It would be great for bike parts,or for doing a fender and bumper job.
dont know if you have the tech sheets, but I usually like to put the first coat on quite lite, almost dry. wait 5-8 minutes usually and then hammer on a nice heavy coat. Got used to this clear using the Energy hardener, but I did try using the superior hardener but I did not see too much of a difference so I continue with the dedicated hardener now.
Hey thanks for the info. I dont usually do much more than smaller parts so thats good not to mention i am used to fast clears. Most of the spi stuff i use is on the fast side. I give this stuff a go a see how i like it. Thanks again.
Yes I have read the tech sheets 5L.If that works for you (light dry coat then a wet coat) good for you,but that is not reccomended,your first coat should look like your last with an HS clear.It was not my idea to switch out the hardener,that came from the Sikkens training center in vancouver,and it does make a difference.
Right on, that comment about the p sheets wasnt directed at you, but regardless the p sheets I have say put a [b]light[/b] coat followed by a [b]full[/b] coat, so that is what I do. Havent had any problems doing it this way, dont run the clear often, the jobs dont die, and the gloss is nice so I will continue to spray it this way. I dont see why that would “not be recommended”.
Maybe you mean a closed medium coat,much different than a light dry coat.The light coat/tack coat was used with low solids clears so they didnt end up on the floor,but not needed with todays clears.My tech sheet says two single wet flowing coats with 5-10 mins flash time, not a light dry coat followed by a wet coat,superior is one closed medium coat,then one flowing coat.If you put your first coat on dry you will have texture that a second wet coat will not fix,you will not reach your proper mil build and could have delam problems down the road,this clear has only been around for a year,lets see what happens 5 years down the road,spray how ever you like but it is the opposite of the info I have….Tech sheet is here,scroll down to page 4 http://www.globalsafetynet.com/akzonobel/pdfs/akzo_373_english.pdf
[quote=”Jayson M” post=20836]Maybe you mean a closed medium coat,much different than a light dry coat.The light coat/tack coat was used with low solids clears so they didnt end up on the floor,but not needed with todays clears.My tech sheet says two single wet flowing coats with 5-10 mins flash time, not a light dry coat followed by a wet coat,superior is one closed medium coat,then one flowing coat.If you put your first coat on dry you will have texture that a second wet coat will not fix,you will not reach your proper mil build and could have delam problems down the road,this clear has only been around for a year,lets see what happens 5 years down the road,spray how ever you like but it is the opposite of the info I have….Tech sheet is here,scroll down to page 4 http://www.globalsafetynet.com/akzonobel/pdfs/akzo_373_english.pdf%5B/quote%5D
Im not familar with the term “closed coat”, not sure what It is to be honest, i have wondered.. :lol1,
I also confused the sheet for Superior and Energy pro, my bad. BUT, the sheet for superior we have at the shop [i]does[/i] says one light coat followed by one full coat, word for word, i guess thats open to interpretation, lol.
I also, didnt just create this way to spray the clear, but It was the way the Rep said the clear should be sprayed.
When I said I put the first coat “almost dry”, maybe I used the wrong term. What I should have said is that I spray the first coat a bit lighter than medium wet, followed by a full wet coat. Your information is interesting, im always down to learn new stuff :exciYup the superior 250 poster in the mixing room says light first coat and the tech sheet says medium closed coat,basically all the droplets are connected,and it is a thin med wet coat(achieved by spraying close and fast for your first coat).When I was at the training center the head guru said just put on 2 wet coats of superior,as it looks better than the coat and a half.I’m surprised that info came from your rep,maybe you should show him the tech sheet :rofl
[quote=”Jayson M” post=20845]Yup the superior 250 poster in the mixing room says light first coat and the tech sheet says medium closed coat,basically all the droplets are connected,and it is a thin med wet coat(achieved by spraying close and fast for your first coat).When I was at the training center the head guru said just put on 2 wet coats of superior,as it looks better than the coat and a half.I’m surprised that info came from your rep,maybe you should show him the tech sheet :rofl[/quote]
Theres been a couple things that were a little out to lunch, ie; telling us to use 250 accelerator in primer, instead of the super top. Pretty sure 250 accelerator is for clear only. Everyone has something different to say.
well i sprayed the energy pro on some sportbike fairings this afternoon. all in all it was extremely similar to the superior 250 except with faster flash and cure times. its actually a bit more like what i am used to. seems to flow and level out nice just like the superior. haven’t seen it dry yet to know if it holds the gloss but i would imgine it should being a higher end clear. i guess we’ll see. in a day or two i will sand and buff it. my neighbor said it buffs pretty easy compared to superior. so far nice stuff.
Our Tech rep was out today putting in our new mixing system. He is going to sent out some Energy Pro for us to try in place of lesonal pro air. I thought it was a clear to go over water not solvent but he said its ok and he also said we can put sup 250 over solvent too? What do you guys think? Also, whats the reason for using the sup 250 hardner in the energy pro clear?
NO you can’t put superior clear over solvent,your rep is wrong.Don’t bother switching clears,when you have your booth working get some ACIII for fast jobs and HS+ for completes.Energy pro is not your answer.When you change out the hardener in energy pro it slows it down and it is nicer to spray.
you can use energy pro 250 over solvent base but not superior 250 it goes over water base only
[quote=”Jayson M” post=20867]NO you can’t put superior clear over solvent,your rep is wrong.Don’t bother switching clears,when you have your booth working get some ACIII for fast jobs and HS+ for completes.Energy pro is not your answer.When you change out the hardener in energy pro it slows it down and it is nicer to spray.[/quote]
We should be getting the air makeup installed sometime next week. Its at the shop just not set up yet. They swiched from ACIII and HS+ to pro air before I got there. I guess they were having problems with it no drying and lots of die back. Keep in mind that its an autobody toolmart cross flow booth with no heat. Thats why they went to the pro air. I personally want to try ACIII but I think they are just a little shy to use it agian. For some reason the rep wants to bring in energy pro. So why is the ACIII and HS+ a better route to go vs the Energy Pro? We are also getting a prep station next week. Its not heated so we will need a clear for air dry things too.
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